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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Molded in Quarter Extensions

  • Thread starter Thread starter robbz28
  • Start date Start date Sep 11, 2010
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robbz28

10 Year Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
39
Epps, LA
Sep 11, 2010
#1
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #1
I am kicking around the idea of filling in the body line between the quarter panel and extension piece on my 67 coupe. The only thing that worries me is if it will fill without cracking in the future. I am trying to get this car as slick as possible, no emblems, antenna, no side or rear moldings. Has anyone ever done this? Thoughts?
 

Az Pete

10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
711
18
49
Panama City, Fl.
Sep 11, 2010
#2
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #2
My last '66 had that done. Also welded in the seam on the valance. Looked good and in over 10,000 miles I drove it, it never cracked. Prep it good.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Sep 11, 2010
#3
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #3
Ah, A krazy kustom kar, or lead sled. That's been around since at least the 50's. You gonna slick the door handles and roofrail?
 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member
Sep 29, 2007
943
265
104
Port Richey Fl
Sep 11, 2010
#4
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #4
robbz28 said:
I am kicking around the idea of filling in the body line between the quarter panel and extension piece on my 67 coupe. The only thing that worries me is if it will fill without cracking in the future. I am trying to get this car as slick as possible, no emblems, antenna, no side or rear moldings. Has anyone ever done this? Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I have done it on two 65's, 68 fastback and a 68 coupe. I used panel adhesive and also bolted them on.







I also did away with the drip rails








 

65 fastback

Founding Member
Mar 17, 2002
1,347
0
37
Northern VA
Sep 11, 2010
#5
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #5
rusty428cj said:
I have done it on two 65's, 68 fastback and a 68 coupe. I used panel adhesive and also bolted them on.







I also did away with the drip rails








Click to expand...

Looks great! I think I will do both the drip rail delete and smooth the joints at the rear quarter extensions the next time around.

Tim
 

robbz28

10 Year Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
39
Epps, LA
Sep 11, 2010
#6
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #6
Wow, yeah, im definately going to slick these lines up, that 68 coupe is EXACTLY the look I'm going for, low and mean. I am not going to shave the door handles tho, just too much trouble, and still kicking around the idea of shaving the drip rails, how much trouble is involved in that procedure?
 

robbz28

10 Year Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
39
Epps, LA
Sep 11, 2010
#7
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #7
What has spurred this thread was the fact that I got my trunk and extensions in recently, and these fiberglass extensions are just horrible, lol. I have fitted on those things for what seems like forever and some good ol bondo will definately ease my woe's. Anyway, its just a coupe, but its going to be a mean looking coupe when its finished, hopefully...
 

bartman

Member
Jan 2, 2004
76
0
7
FL
Sep 11, 2010
#8
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #8
You are in CA. Mild winters? That should help with no cracks. My Dad smoothed his 68 in FL. It has been done 6 or 7 years and 20,000 miles no cracks.
 

robbz28

10 Year Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
39
Epps, LA
Sep 11, 2010
#9
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #9
No, not in LA, in Louisiana, but yeah, usually mild winters, we have about one to two good cold weeks, but i got a nice warm garage for this car to sit in. But this feedback has me talked into it, no questions, thank you guys a lot. I also have my cowl shaved (a lot of haters on that subject) but I think it looks good. Anyway, again thanks!
 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member
Sep 29, 2007
943
265
104
Port Richey Fl
Sep 12, 2010
#10
  • Sep 12, 2010
  • #10
robbz28 said:
No, not in LA, in Louisiana, but yeah, usually mild winters, we have about one to two good cold weeks, but i got a nice warm garage for this car to sit in. But this feedback has me talked into it, no questions, thank you guys a lot. I also have my cowl shaved (a lot of haters on that subject) but I think it looks good. Anyway, again thanks!
Click to expand...



 

Federico Garza

Member
Jun 12, 2009
37
1
9
Sep 13, 2010
#11
  • Sep 13, 2010
  • #11
Rusty:

Care to elaborate on the proper procedure to remove the drip rails???

My car has a bad case of rust under them, so Id figure Id remove them permanently and fix the rust issues...

Thanks in advance.
 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member
Sep 29, 2007
943
265
104
Port Richey Fl
Sep 13, 2010
#12
  • Sep 13, 2010
  • #12
My coupe was not a rust issue so it wasn't as hard as a 67 Coupe with a lot of rust we did. I liked the look so I did it to my car.



The first thing it to cut off the drip rail and all the rusted sheet metal. You will have to fabricate a patch for the rusted out area and weld the area where the drip rail was cut off.









My 68 coupe during bodywork





1968 Fastback that was so bad we had to install roof and both quarters








Grind welds than epoxy prime and do your bodywork



 

jlangholzj

Mustang Master
Oct 23, 2006
248
31
93
MI
Sep 13, 2010
#13
  • Sep 13, 2010
  • #13
...you always do good work rusty.....excellent work
 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member
Sep 29, 2007
943
265
104
Port Richey Fl
Sep 13, 2010
#14
  • Sep 13, 2010
  • #14
jlangholzj said:
...you always do good work rusty.....excellent work
Click to expand...

Thanks
I come up with the ideas but I have to give credit for all the fabrication to my son Brian. After he is finished either one of us will epoxy prime than I do all the bodywork, block sanding and paint than it's back to Brian to buff.
 

firemansam

Member
Feb 16, 2010
113
0
17
Mississippi/Iraq
Sep 14, 2010
#15
  • Sep 14, 2010
  • #15
Rusty~ you and your son do some mighty fine work! i have been looking for some photographic help on drip rail delete for a while! thanks for the pictures and i think i am with robbz28, i am goin delete drip rail and molded quarter extentions!
 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member
Sep 29, 2007
943
265
104
Port Richey Fl
Sep 14, 2010
#16
  • Sep 14, 2010
  • #16
Where the factory attached the roof is a lead seam you need to remove it before you can weld it back together. The easiest way is to melt it. If you look at the fastback pictures you can see a patch welded to the rear sail panel where the quarter and roof meet also the front windshield post. You can use bondo but we did not want it that thick so we welded a patch.

Later this year we will be doing a 65 Fastback and I will have progress pictures of removing the drip rails.
 

Federico Garza

Member
Jun 12, 2009
37
1
9
Sep 14, 2010
#17
  • Sep 14, 2010
  • #17
Thanks for the reply, I will wait for your drip rail removal tutorial...
 

robbz28

10 Year Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
39
Epps, LA
Sep 15, 2010
#18
  • Sep 15, 2010
  • #18
rusty428cj said:
Where the factory attached the roof is a lead seam you need to remove it before you can weld it back together. The easiest way is to melt it. If you look at the fastback pictures you can see a patch welded to the rear sail panel where the quarter and roof meet also the front windshield post. You can use bondo but we did not want it that thick so we welded a patch.

Later this year we will be doing a 65 Fastback and I will have progress pictures of removing the drip rails.
Click to expand...

This is for replacing the roof right? Not for shaving drip rails...?
 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member
Sep 29, 2007
943
265
104
Port Richey Fl
Sep 15, 2010
#19
  • Sep 15, 2010
  • #19
You need to remove the lead so you can reweld your roof or a new one.
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
1,229
7
39
AR
Sep 15, 2010
#20
  • Sep 15, 2010
  • #20
Rusty

I wish you were my neighbor, you`d get all the free beer you could drink...
 
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