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Nagash01WS6

New Member
Apr 15, 2003
402
0
0
Deland, FL
#1
Well... it just keeps going with this car....
Replaced the rear brakes today... passenger side pad was grinding against the rotor. So we got a set of rear brakes rotor / pads each side. Well... drivers side slide pin was seized in the caliper mount. Got that free with the help of acetlyne and a pipe wrench. Picked up the new slide pins / brake hardware kit at autozone... went back and put it all together. Went to fix a leaky front caliper... and made it worse. Another trip to autzone and took care of that.

So... I drive it about 4 miles home. Stop... get a nice whiff of brake. Didnt see any smoke... figured it was the new ones breaking in. Pull into the driveway... and the rear passenger side is smoking. Great.

The entire time... the car was running like crap. It stalled twice without my help on the clutch. It wasnt throwing any codes though. Just replaced cap / rotor / wires / plugs in order to fix a misfire problem... which it didnt at all. Car still misfires about a minute after startup.

So... any ideas on whats up with the brake or the motor???
Car started throwing codes when I missed a shift and nailed the rev limiter rather well. Next day it started runnin like crap.
 
#2
wow...that doesnt sound like fun. Maybe you should keep the WS6 and sell the stang! lol I think I probably would anyway just cuz those TAs are bad. You should get a buddy or someone to put another set of eyes/ears on your car. Especially someone that knows mustangs. I mean you could find the answer here if you try hard enuf but its hard sometimes to properly explain this kind of stuff online and you sound to have some fairly unusual problems. Your rear brake sounds maybe like a piston is stuck or something. Thats my first guess.

Your car misfiring could be timing, ECT/ACT sensor, or really any number of things. Thats a tough one. Just keep askign questions online and to people you know and do extensive word searches on stangnet and corral (others may have had the same problems as you at some point). Good luck to you! In the meantime, I gotta fix my idle problem, high temp problem and rattle from underneath my car. :) What fun.
 
#3
I had a miss like you said once. It would only do it when the car was ran for a minute or two. Ended up being the distributer, after replaceing every other possible iginition component. Sucks chasing problems like that.

Good luck with the car. I think you should have gave it a more thorough look over before you bought it.
 
#4
Nagash01WS6 said:
So... I drive it about 4 miles home. Stop... get a nice whiff of brake. Didnt see any smoke... figured it was the new ones breaking in. Pull into the driveway... and the rear passenger side is smoking.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the caliper is seized or the Ebrake is out of adjustment??? You replaced the caliper? correct?? Did the rotor spin freely after re-assy??
 
#5
RIO5.0 said:
Sounds like the caliper is seized or the Ebrake is out of adjustment??? You replaced the caliper? correct?? Did the rotor spin freely after re-assy??
Click to expand...

Nope... didnt replace the caliper.
The piston went back into the caliper fine.
I guess we'll try replacing the caliper today.

As far as the ignition... it started after I misshifted... stuffed it between 1 and 3 and smacked the rev limiter REAL good.
 
#7
kyle you dork.

Take a voltage reader and check to see if are getting voltage to all 8 injectors. Next (and i have the tool for this so you can come to my house and do it) take the spark plugs wires off and see if they are getting spark. You should be able to tell then if you are getting spark from the distributor or if its past there. Remember all those problems i had with mine misfiring? We will get it taken care of, just have patience man.

I have wednesday off from work, and plan on changing the header gasket on the passenger side, so if you want to come over then, ill be wrenching it up and we can work on your car as well.
 
#9
I got it from some autozone/discount auto place.

You take the wires off from the plugs. This tool/tester connects to the plug wire while the car is running and shows you if you have spark going through it.
 
#11
The 302 bottom end shouldn't care about 7-8,000 rpm if there isn't any load, like a missed shift, if your valves floated enough, you could have smacked one with a piston. I would try a leak down test, if all of the cylinders are good, you will have to look at the ignition and the pushrods. This might be a great time for you to add a Tmoss ported lower or an Explorer if you are going to pull the intake any way.

Good luck
 
#12
Only thing is I dont hear any ticking or any firing out of the intake like with a bent pushrod or bent valve.

It BOUNCED off the rev limiter... thats about it. Then it threw some codes.

Next day is when the ignition started going nuts. Its either throwing a code 17, 27, or 72... i dunno which... the flashing code thing escpaed me today.
 
#14
The codes for our cars are ALL 3 digits. No 2 digit codes. Here is a link to the list of the codes. Also, the computer repeats the codes, so you should see each code twice.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/445.shtml

Post back when you successfully run the codes!

I don't know of any code regarding "hitting the rev limiter"....It just may have been a coincidence. If you did bust a valve, a compression test would eliminate that problem.
Scott
Scott
 
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