More problems

Dockboy19

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Yesterday i posted a problem about a coil. Come to find out i dont think it is that. After the car cools down, it will start and run fine for about 20 mins. After a while, it will begisn to hesitate when the throttle is increased, stalls out more than anything. I hear the fuel pump but i am suspecting that it is pump getting over heated and not working. This is a bone stock mustang! No nothing on. What do you guys think, can the fuel pump be on and still not supplying fuel.
I have replaced:
coil
plugs
wires
cap& rotor
And now ordered a fuel pump and filter.....
 
when it dies, does it have spark? it can get expensive tossing parts at it.

i would have guessed TFI over FP. knowing if you have no spark would narrow it down. good luck.
 
hmmm

Either way it will be nice knowing i have a new fuel pump that can handle mods as well. TFI eh... thats what my other thread responses guessed to. Any hesitations of ordering them from Mustangsunlimited or 50 resto. Or should this be a Motor craft only part? Also why does the TFI die after a certain amount time, then work the next day????
 
When my TFI started acting up, it was only at WOT around 3500rpm's so I replaced it and no more problems. Others have said it has left them stranded on the side of the road with no warning. It is going to vary, it's hard to say.

50Resto is a very good company. I have ordered from them several times with no problems. I bought my TFI at AutoZone and they didn't have the MotorCraft, only the Wells. I haven't had any problems with mine.

Tim
 
HISSIN50 said:
when it dies, does it have spark? it can get expensive tossing parts at it.

i would have guessed TFI over FP. knowing if you have no spark would narrow it down. good luck.

Good suggestions. Modules will do that if they are on thier way out and get hot. It also could be the pickup inside the distributer, they work togeather.
Is the EGR sticking or sysem malfunctioning. Try disconnection the EGR valve vaccume line. If that isn't it, try disconnecting the MAF and then start it up and see what happens. Oh yeah, what about codes.

Worse case, it but it could be a cracked head or block. Metal expands with heat, and so do cracks in the metal. When it's cold, the crack is too small, but once it gets hot, it starts causing problems, then gets real hot and the problem multiplies. Have the block tested if it isn't an electronic/emmisions issue.