More Progress = Lots More Questions! Over Heating, Brakes, AFR ETC. Help for the AM?

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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Burlington, NJ
Ok guys... Lot of headway... lots of questions.

#1. While idling the temp gets HOT 225-230ish so we shut it down. After letting it cool down we took it for a drive to see if it did the same with air flow... Yup... had to shut it down again and let it cool. The top hose is hard and has pressure, fan is running but its blowing cold air away not hot... poped the upper hose and there is no coolant in it... any ideas???
My thoughts:
A. T stat in wrong- What side faces the motor???
B. Needs burping - If you think so whats the best way???
C. Water pump issue :shrug:

#2. We have bled the brakes quite a few times and the fluid is coming out nice and clean however, the brakes when driving are spongy and the pedal does not come back up right away. Do you think this is a bleeding issue??? or Vac issue??? any other opinions???
Mods to brake system:
All new lines
ABS to NON ABS
Line lock
SS lines
fluid bleeds on all lines good.

#3. Idles lean see video, its a 24lb cal'd pro M maf. My QH is out for updates and should be back soon:

http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/blindfoldedhope/?action=view&current=DSCF1154.mp4
#4 After driving the one time the brakelites/interior lite/ autometer gauges do not lite up.... Blown fuse maybe????


The first 2 are major issues that i want to tackle tomorrow! Thanks again guys.
 
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The T-stat spring goes into the intake manifold (the spring is directed towards the engine).

Just wondering what you did with the Hydraulic Control unit when you went to a non ABS system and if the HCU is still installed that may be why the brakes are spongy.
 
If that ABS box is still good, I would hang onto it. Those things are like $900 or better. Looks like you got your coolant issue figured out. I would try using a pressure bleeder on the brake system, or just bleed it till it's better. I find that if the master cylinder is a little old, it doesn't bleed very well. Might try bench bleeding the master cylinder, and then try bleeding it again. You don't actually have to use a bench to bench bleed it, you can do it while it's on the car.

Kurt
 
If that ABS box is still good, I would hang onto it. Those things are like $900 or better. Looks like you got your coolant issue figured out. I would try using a pressure bleeder on the brake system, or just bleed it till it's better. I find that if the master cylinder is a little old, it doesn't bleed very well. Might try bench bleeding the master cylinder, and then try bleeding it again. You don't actually have to use a bench to bench bleed it, you can do it while it's on the car.

Kurt

I dont know where it is it might be at the recyclers i litterer chucked it in a bush.



Light issue fixed blown fuse (5) 15Amp (main light switch) will probably blow again... :shrug:
 
Bench bled the master on the car... reconnected lines and tightened down more on a few fittings. Bled all lines again still same problem...


Any ideas???

I need to get rid of this problem... The car does stop... pedal is rock hard untill i start the car then it gets really mushy and takes its time returning up... sometimes it gets stuck down for like 10 seconds...
 
Also the AFR got better i tightened down the clamps on the maf , backed off on the idle screw, chucked a filter on it and im at 15.5-16.6ish at idle...

Drove it around quite a bit today and cruising its 13.8-15.5ish

At wot i saw it as low as 12.7 to about 14.3

I havent started datatloging but the car is running strong..

one little backfire i guess its running rich between shifts.
 
I need to get rid of this problem... The car does stop... pedal is rock hard untill i start the car then it gets really mushy and takes its time returning up... sometimes it gets stuck down for like 10 seconds...

Super weird. Like the calipers aren't pushing back on the master cylinder properly. Master cylinder failure maybe. I'd say booster, but that really doesn't make sense. Are these new calipers?

Kurt
 
Super weird. Like the calipers aren't pushing back on the master cylinder properly. Master cylinder failure maybe. I'd say booster, but that really doesn't make sense. Are these new calipers?

Kurt

Nope stockones that were working fine when removed...


I just wish i could narrow it down to one or the other and not throw parts at it seeing as i dont have a job right now.:shrug:
 
Copy'd from my build thread:
Neighbors of where the car was located complained today about the noise level...

So since i got the title issues straitened out this morning and the car is registered and insured i had the car towed to chris' work.

Chris set the alignment the best he could... im still at -2.5* camber... but he fixed the toe and caster.

The car was over -4* to start with... so he did a great job... i need shorter fox length A arms and swaybar to fix the issue completely but for now the car drives nice.

After the test drive we decided to change out the brake booster and Master cyl to see if it fixed the brake issue... upon installing the booster we noticed the one stud spinning... took it out and noticed it wasnt pressed in correctly... In order to have the car out by the time the shop closed we put the old booster and the new master that we bench bled on the car... We vac bled the lines and the car is driving much better and the pedal feel is back to semi normal. We are gonna bleed the lines again tomorrow and see if it totally fixes the problem... We slapped the corners in and hooked up the headlights and chris drove it to his house about 10 miles away... It cruised nice with low 14's in AFR :nice::nice::nice::nice::nice:


SO i might be able to return the faulty booster and save some $$$$