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More Progress = Lots More Questions! Over Heating, Brakes, AFR ETC. Help for the AM?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adam95GT
  • Start date Start date Aug 28, 2010

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
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0
Burlington, NJ
Aug 28, 2010
#1
  • Aug 28, 2010
  • #1
Ok guys... Lot of headway... lots of questions.

#1. While idling the temp gets HOT 225-230ish so we shut it down. After letting it cool down we took it for a drive to see if it did the same with air flow... Yup... had to shut it down again and let it cool. The top hose is hard and has pressure, fan is running but its blowing cold air away not hot... poped the upper hose and there is no coolant in it... any ideas???
My thoughts:
A. T stat in wrong- What side faces the motor???
B. Needs burping - If you think so whats the best way???
C. Water pump issue

#2. We have bled the brakes quite a few times and the fluid is coming out nice and clean however, the brakes when driving are spongy and the pedal does not come back up right away. Do you think this is a bleeding issue??? or Vac issue??? any other opinions???
Mods to brake system:
All new lines
ABS to NON ABS
Line lock
SS lines
fluid bleeds on all lines good.

#3. Idles lean see video, its a 24lb cal'd pro M maf. My QH is out for updates and should be back soon:

http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/blindfoldedhope/?action=view&current=DSCF1154.mp4
#4 After driving the one time the brakelites/interior lite/ autometer gauges do not lite up.... Blown fuse maybe????


The first 2 are major issues that i want to tackle tomorrow! Thanks again guys.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
54
79
Vernon BC
Aug 29, 2010
#2
  • Aug 29, 2010
  • #2
The T-stat spring goes into the intake manifold (the spring is directed towards the engine).

Just wondering what you did with the Hydraulic Control unit when you went to a non ABS system and if the HCU is still installed that may be why the brakes are spongy.
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
3
0
Burlington, NJ
Aug 29, 2010
#3
  • Aug 29, 2010
  • #3
#1 solved t stat in backward. Bought a mr. gasket 180 to replace so i put it in anyway!

Thanks



The big ABS box is in a bush in the back yard.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
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Acworth, GA
Aug 29, 2010
#4
  • Aug 29, 2010
  • #4
If that ABS box is still good, I would hang onto it. Those things are like $900 or better. Looks like you got your coolant issue figured out. I would try using a pressure bleeder on the brake system, or just bleed it till it's better. I find that if the master cylinder is a little old, it doesn't bleed very well. Might try bench bleeding the master cylinder, and then try bleeding it again. You don't actually have to use a bench to bench bleed it, you can do it while it's on the car.

Kurt
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
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Burlington, NJ
Aug 29, 2010
#5
  • Aug 29, 2010
  • #5
revhead347 said:
If that ABS box is still good, I would hang onto it. Those things are like $900 or better. Looks like you got your coolant issue figured out. I would try using a pressure bleeder on the brake system, or just bleed it till it's better. I find that if the master cylinder is a little old, it doesn't bleed very well. Might try bench bleeding the master cylinder, and then try bleeding it again. You don't actually have to use a bench to bench bleed it, you can do it while it's on the car.

Kurt
Click to expand...

I dont know where it is it might be at the recyclers i litterer chucked it in a bush.



Light issue fixed blown fuse (5) 15Amp (main light switch) will probably blow again...
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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0
Burlington, NJ
Aug 29, 2010
#6
  • Aug 29, 2010
  • #6
Bench bled the master on the car... reconnected lines and tightened down more on a few fittings. Bled all lines again still same problem...


Any ideas???

I need to get rid of this problem... The car does stop... pedal is rock hard untill i start the car then it gets really mushy and takes its time returning up... sometimes it gets stuck down for like 10 seconds...
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
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0
Burlington, NJ
Aug 29, 2010
#7
  • Aug 29, 2010
  • #7
Also the AFR got better i tightened down the clamps on the maf , backed off on the idle screw, chucked a filter on it and im at 15.5-16.6ish at idle...

Drove it around quite a bit today and cruising its 13.8-15.5ish

At wot i saw it as low as 12.7 to about 14.3

I havent started datatloging but the car is running strong..

one little backfire i guess its running rich between shifts.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
1,645
214
Acworth, GA
Aug 29, 2010
#8
  • Aug 29, 2010
  • #8
Adam95GT said:
I need to get rid of this problem... The car does stop... pedal is rock hard untill i start the car then it gets really mushy and takes its time returning up... sometimes it gets stuck down for like 10 seconds...
Click to expand...

Super weird. Like the calipers aren't pushing back on the master cylinder properly. Master cylinder failure maybe. I'd say booster, but that really doesn't make sense. Are these new calipers?

Kurt
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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0
Burlington, NJ
Aug 30, 2010
#9
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #9
revhead347 said:
Super weird. Like the calipers aren't pushing back on the master cylinder properly. Master cylinder failure maybe. I'd say booster, but that really doesn't make sense. Are these new calipers?

Kurt
Click to expand...

Nope stockones that were working fine when removed...


I just wish i could narrow it down to one or the other and not throw parts at it seeing as i dont have a job right now.
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
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0
Burlington, NJ
Aug 30, 2010
#10
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #10
Anyone know Vac at idle on a HCI car apparently i was only seeing 6hg.

Chris said when i revved it it got slightly more.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
1,645
214
Acworth, GA
Aug 30, 2010
#11
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #11
6hg is way too low. Should be up around 12 for an HCI car. I'd start hunting around for vacuum leaks.

Kurt
 

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
9
98
Bethesda, MD
Aug 30, 2010
#12
  • Aug 30, 2010
  • #12
lack of proper vaccuum can also affect the operation of the brakes. use the carb cleaner method ... spray it at different things while idling. when you spray near the leak, the idle will change.
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
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0
Burlington, NJ
Aug 31, 2010
#13
  • Aug 31, 2010
  • #13
Copy'd from my build thread:
Neighbors of where the car was located complained today about the noise level...

So since i got the title issues straitened out this morning and the car is registered and insured i had the car towed to chris' work.

Chris set the alignment the best he could... im still at -2.5* camber... but he fixed the toe and caster.

The car was over -4* to start with... so he did a great job... i need shorter fox length A arms and swaybar to fix the issue completely but for now the car drives nice.

After the test drive we decided to change out the brake booster and Master cyl to see if it fixed the brake issue... upon installing the booster we noticed the one stud spinning... took it out and noticed it wasnt pressed in correctly... In order to have the car out by the time the shop closed we put the old booster and the new master that we bench bled on the car... We vac bled the lines and the car is driving much better and the pedal feel is back to semi normal. We are gonna bleed the lines again tomorrow and see if it totally fixes the problem... We slapped the corners in and hooked up the headlights and chris drove it to his house about 10 miles away... It cruised nice with low 14's in AFR


SO i might be able to return the faulty booster and save some $$$$
 
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