Mustang Shock Tower Repair

dbdragracing

Member

Dec 1, 2004

397

2

18

Dec 27, 2008

#1

• Dec 27, 2008

• #1

I just went to look at a 1991 Mustang GT (really nice...selling due to a divorce). The car is great except for the driver side shock tower has a hole rusted in it just below the brake stuff...how hard is this to fix and can it be done with the engine in the car? Are the parts readily available? Thanks for any help...I think I can get the car for $1500. Later.

 

93 LX

Founding Member

Jun 2, 2000

3,081

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0

Norwalk, CA.

Dec 28, 2008

#2

• Dec 28, 2008

• #2

it would be easier to fix with the engine out but maybe you could rig it some how for the time being.... I would burn the rust out and fill it with lead it its not too big. Other wise you will have to patch it with steel.

 

dbdragracing

Member

Dec 1, 2004

397

2

18

Dec 28, 2008

#3

• Dec 28, 2008

• #3

Can you buy a new shock tower to fix the driver side rusted one? Thanks.

 

7-UP BILL

Founding Member

Jan 4, 2001

885

19

49

My other car is a Firetruck

Dec 28, 2008

#4

• Dec 28, 2008

• #4

Unless your looking to do a concours restoration, I would cut out the rusted area, treat the bare metal, and weld a patch over it. Some pics of the affected area would be nice for a more thorough evaluation.

 

skunk21

Active Member

May 22, 2007

1,203

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36

Taxachusetts

Dec 28, 2008

#5

• Dec 28, 2008

• #5

like 7-up stated some pics would help. My buddy had teh same problem but his was caused by unequal length headers burning the paint off and causing a rust hole. we where able to fix it with the motor in the car, we pulled the header off and motor mount, tilled the motor and cut out the area and welded a patch in. It's tight but can be done.

They don't make replacement towers but if it's really bad ( I have seen some) you would cut out a tower section from a junk car and weld/graph it in, a job for pro's.

 

stang&2Birds

Founding Member

May 4, 2000

2,091

5

58

New England. :-) CT/MA

Dec 28, 2008

#6

• Dec 28, 2008

• #6

greensvt21 said:

They don't make replacement towers but if it's really bad ( I have seen some) you would cut out a tower section from a junk car and weld/graph it in, a job for pro's.

Click to expand...

Very true, it really is a job for a pro.

Depending on the location of the rust and the amount, it would be hard to fix the shock tower with the engine in. But, not impossible! Again, it depends on where exactly the rust is.

For example, I folded and welded the back portion of my strut tower to fit in my booster. That was with the engine in the car. But, obviously, no booster or other stuff in that area.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/joe/brakes/graphics/bumpForPowerBooster2.jpg


You may be able to get to it by just taking off the wheel, using some sandpaper to clean up the area, and put a patch on from there.

If it's minor (which it sounds like), then you're really doing a cosmetic fix and to prevent any further rusting. In that case, I suggest using epoxy putty. You'd make a "plug" that went over both sides. You'd want at least 1/8" think in the engine bay, and then 1/4" to 1/2+" think in the wheel well (where it wont show as much).

Note: Regardless of the BS that you may have read, the strut towers FLEX A LOT! That's been know since the 50's! Strut tower braces are not new. So, if the hole is too big, then the non-flexing epoxy patch isn't a good idea.

 

stang&2Birds

Founding Member

May 4, 2000

2,091

5

58

New England. :-) CT/MA

Dec 28, 2008

#7

• Dec 28, 2008

• #7

FYI:

Epoxy Putty Web page - Oatey.com


Epoxy Putty Web Specs:
http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/instance_assets/assets/Submittal_Sheet/Epoxy Putty.pdf

Old package:

New package:

BTW: There are many different epoxy putties. I like the above because it works well and you get a bigger stick for the price. Of course, JB weld also makes one:
J-B Weld Company - J-B STIK Product Information
Properties (psi)
Tensile Strength: 6,000 psi
Density: 15.8 lb/gal
Compression Strength: 14,000 psi
Shear Strength: 700 psi
Hardness: 75-85 psi
Resistant to: 300° F
Modulus of Elasticity: 6 x 105 psi

 

Chrome_Rust

Member

Dec 5, 2008

530

1

17

Findlay, Ohio

Dec 29, 2008

#8

• Dec 29, 2008

• #8

i my 93 project, i cut all the bad metal out, replaced it with 1/4" plate. also plated up the front of the tower and plated into the subframe. i want NO flex. i did this on both sides. i am going to use fiberglass to finish smoothing the engine bay, so you wont see the hideous plate steel there.

 

dbdragracing

Member

Dec 1, 2004

397

2

18

Dec 29, 2008

#9

• Dec 29, 2008

• #9

Thanks for the help guys...took the car to the restoration shop today and he told me to remove the engine and he would fix it for $200! So I bought the car for $1500 due to the guy getting a divorce!

 

LiquidGT

Member

Oct 8, 2007

368

0

16

Near STL hell

Dec 29, 2008

#10

• Dec 29, 2008

• #10

dbdragracing said:

Thanks for the help guys...took the car to the restoration shop today and he told me to remove the engine and he would fix it for $200! So I bought the car for $1500 due to the guy getting a divorce!

Click to expand...

$200 not bad, I PM'ed a guy on here and he paid $1200 to have his fixed with the engine in.

Hopefully I'll be doing mine soon since I have the same problem like many others. I wish they made replacement strut towers for foxes. I noticed in the junkyard that the SN95 are showing the same signs of strut tower rot.

 

Beasty306GT

Active Member

Dec 19, 2002

671

4

28

Oxford,Mass

Dec 29, 2008

#11

• Dec 29, 2008

• #11

My driver side is the same way...need to cut it out and have it fixed.....foxes are known for that.....my buddies 94 dont have a spec of rust..but his shock towers were rotting from the inside out.....bad design from the start from ford with them