Mustang Wiring Guru?

The first picture is the low oil sensor that goes into the side of the oil pan. Im unsure on the others

The last one is the EVAP purge solenoid. Should be a vacuum line that comes from the charcoal canister to that, then from that to the upper intake manifold.

The EVAP system doesn't harm anything by keeping it, you would only be hurting yourself if you were to take it out.

Lol k.

Removing the pollution control equipment from a 5.0 Mustang is a bad idea. All you have accomplished is to make the computer mad and spit codes. The pollution control equipment all shuts off at wide open throttle, so the HP losses from it on the car are 2-5 HP. The catalytic converters may soak a few more HP than that. None of the pollution control equipment reduces the HP enough to cost you a race in anything but professional drag strip competition. I seriously doubt that you will be in the final runoff on “Pinks”, so leave the smog equipment in place and make sure it is working correctly.

Know what does what before removing it. Remove or disable the wrong thing and the computer sets the check engine light and runs in "limp mode". Limp mode means reduced power and fuel economy.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20-$45 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search

Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.


If you removed the smog pump and still have catalytic converters, they will ultimately clog and fail.

Remove any of the equipment and you will not pass a full smog check, cannot title the car in an area that does smog checks and have broken several federal laws. Granted that the Feds are short on people to check cars, but it is still Federal law.


Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.



It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?


The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.

The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.

Purge valve solenoid:



The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:
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Kenny Kline said:

LOL I am here to identify some wiring and plug ends. Nothing more, nothing less. I tried to keep it simple with pictures and specific questions but leave it to the forums to go off topic in rants about stuff that has nothing to do with me. If you read the first post as in post 1, 28 words into my introduction, the chip is being burned to IGNORE these things. And I am not removing these parts, they have already been removed. I bought the car with no emission stuff in it. This just happens to be the only emission part I have, a simple 6" wire with solenoid on it.

Learn to read before you lecture somebody. Youre wasting your time. Hopefully it didnt take to long to type all that.

LIMP MODE FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! dumbass

Click to expand...

You don't like the answer, you could just pass over it. Keep in mind that you posted in a PUBLIC forum, not in your own private backyard.

And calling JRichker a dumbass only tells all of us how much of a dumbass you are.


Here's a suggestion moron... buy a haynes manual that has a wiring diagram in it and get out a multi-meter for continuity checks.
Since it's a used harness, you should be doing that anyway...
Better yet... take your dumbass to google and find one of the dozens of mustang wiring diagrams available for free... oh, nevermind... that would actually take some independent thought on your part... better to post the question and be spoon fed the answer.


Best of luck to you

You are deleting the low oil sensor, yet jricher is the dumbass?

While I don't share his love of emissions equipment, he is certainly one of most helpful and electrically educated members.

You may not want to insult the only guy here that could help you get out of the mess you seem to be creating.