Electrical Mustang won’t start.

[General karthief]

So? You just go right back out there and clean those cable clamps and connections right now young man,
Seriously, you have a bad connection between the battery and the starter or ignition switch or possibly a bad battery.
that's my guess.

 

[Brad Hanks]

Cleaned the posts and terminals. 12.16 across the posts and 12.13 across the terminals. Between the pos post and terminal is where that’s going. Dont think that would make a difference though. Again I can’t test the voltage drop while cranking.

 

[Rdub6]

That’s a bad battery for sure! Should be at least 12.6 across the posts.

 

[General karthief]

You have to be able to test for voltage drop when the starter is engaged.

 

[Brad Hanks]

You have to be able to test for voltage drop when the starter is engaged.

I’m up for any ideas on how to do that. I turn the key for start and everything goes dead for a few hours.

 

[General karthief]

Ok, let me see if I can help you, here is how I would handle this,
i would, at this point I realize you have been given the link to figure this out (see, I sometimes have to back up and check on my train of thought)

Cleaned the posts and terminals. 12.16 across the posts and 12.13 across the terminals. Between the pos post and terminal is where that’s going. Dont think that would make a difference though. Again I can’t test the voltage drop while cranking.

A pic or two showing how you did this would be helpful, if you can check voltage across the batt posts why can't you test the cranking volts drop?
all you gotta do is watch the DVM while you turn the key to start, does the voltage change? If no, move on down the wire checking each connection for voltage to change, 12.16-12.13 is nothing, does not necessarily mean the battery is bad, it is a concern, but it may be it needs a little charge.
I believe this is covered in the no crank checklist I posted.
I believe it has illustrations

 

[Brad Hanks]

Update on this. Changed out the solenoid for the other one that was on there and it started with the key. Took it for a drive and brought it back was back to going to start and everything dead. I can jump the s to power and the solenoid will click. It has 12v from the clutch switch. Battery is showing 13v after a charge. I’ll get some updates on volt drops tomorrow.

 

[Brad Hanks]

Ok, let me see if I can help you, here is how I would handle this,
i would, at this point I realize you have been given the link to figure this out (see, I sometimes have to back up and check on my train of thought)

A pic or two showing how you did this would be helpful, if you can check voltage across the batt posts why can't you test the cranking volts drop?
all you gotta do is watch the DVM while you turn the key to start, does the voltage change? If no, move on down the wire checking each connection for voltage to change, 12.16-12.13 is nothing, does not necessarily mean the battery is bad, it is a concern, but it may be it needs a little charge.
I believe this is covered in the no crank checklist I posted.
I believe it has illustrations

 

[General karthief]

Pic #1 shows O volts between the batt post and the cable clamp, pic #2 shows 12+ volts between the batt post and the solenoid stud, this tells me and this an observation from pics, that pics #1 shows a bad connection, now pjc #2 shows a complete circuit so that tells me either pic #1 is operator error or a loose/bad connection at that clamp.
This is only an observation based on pics and written word,

 

[jrichker]

@Brad Hanks
@General karthief

0 volts between between the battery post and the cable clamp is good. The less voltage drop between connection points, the better the connection is.

12 volts between the battery cable clamp and the solenoid terminal is bad - that is a classic open circuit. Replace the short cable between the battery and the solenoid.

You should never use a cable clamp on a battery wire unless it s a very temporary repair. Replace the cable assembly as soon as possible.

 

[Brad Hanks]

@Brad Hanks
@General karthief

0 volts between between the battery post and the cable clamp is good. The less voltage drop between connection points, the better the connection is.

12 volts between the battery cable clamp and the solenoid terminal is bad - that is a classic open circuit. Replace the short cable between the battery and the solenoid.

You should never use a cable clamp on a battery wire unless it s a very temporary repair. Replace the cable assembly as soon as possible.

 

[Brad Hanks]

Thanks for the advice. I’ll do that today.

 

[Brad Hanks]

Pic #1 shows O volts between the batt post and the cable clamp, pic #2 shows 12+ volts between the batt post and the solenoid stud, this tells me and this an observation from pics, that pics #1 shows a bad connection, now pjc #2 shows a complete circuit so that tells me either pic #1 is operator error or a loose/bad connection at that clamp.
This is only an observation based on pics and written word,

Thanks.

 

[Brad Hanks]

Fingers crossed but looks like that was the issue. Appreciate all the help.