My 88 5.0L H.O needs alittle work....need help

Duro5341

Member
Sep 24, 2005
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My 88 5.0L H.O needs alittle work....updated

Hey guys
I just purchased my 88 5.0L 5 speed........it's got 4 problems

1. It's hard to put into gear, the previous owner said the clutch was badly worn.......ok. So what do you recommend for a good stock replacement, I'll be modifying later, and will get a better clutch. I just want to get this on the road, so I can drive it, before I put it away for storage in November. Also how much work is involved in changing the clutch?

2.Fuel Injector o-rings......He said the Fuel injector o-rings leak.........ok get new ones
How much is involved in changing these, and where is the best place to get them

3.Starter......The starter will not engage, just spins........anyone know how much these run $$ wise?, and whats the best brand to buy

4. Headers.......ok pretty straight forward, there cracked. The car has Full Length Headers, so what is a decent replacement?. Not looking for the top of the line, just something Decent to get her back up and running

Thanks for helping guys........I wanna get this car up and running before I put it into storage in November........I am located around Toronto, Ontario

Duro
 
Toronto...Sweet. I am from Niagara. Anyways the only one I could help you with is a clutch. Look into the FMS clutches as they are pretty good. I know a few people with the centerforces as well, they have good pedal feel but I'm not sure how they will hold up under higher power.
 
Cool man, I am accually from Waterloo area(kitchener/Waterloo, Cambridge)
I figured everyone knows where T.Dot is, and not many people know Waterloo
But cool non the less, well have to meet up sometime

Thanks for the info on the clutch, I am going to go get some prices today
But any help would be great, or tips to doing any of the above

Duro
 
Question:

1. FMS King Cobra Clutch. It is the same as a stock replacement clutch and will hold what mods you will do to it for quite some time. I had gears, exhaust, and all the standard bolt ons with a 150 shot of N2O and it held fine.

2. You could try autozone or equivelant and a ford garage.

3. Autozone about 110 bucks American.

4. A cheap fix would be to have them welded or weld them yourself. If you are direct replacing them you will need long tubes to fit your h-pipe you have right now. I have a set of Hooker Super Comps for over 5 years and no issues so far.
 
Actually, a KC clutch is not a fox OEM clutch.

Borg Warner makes a pintle and O-ring kit for injectors. If you search the posts of Jrichker, you will be provided with part numbers.

Good luck.
 
First of all, I don't think the clutch itself is the problem. If the clutch was bad, it would slip, or chatter, grind, ect. What woudl prevent you from changing gears easily would be the clutch not fully disengauging when you push in the pedal. This would be caused by a streched cable and/or worn quadrant. The stock cables are a wear item, and the quadrants, do a search, that plastic crap is nothing but problems. Look into a aftermarket metal qudrant kit, they are usually less than $100 and make a big difference. Even if everything is good, you'll still be glad you did it.
-edit- If you decide to change the clutch anyways, be sure to get a new TOB and pilot berring as these are known for causing shift issues. Some get the steel berring retainer and swear by it. Stay with a mild clutch on a stock T-5 if you decide to change the clutch anyways.

2. Fuel injector O-rings get hard and brittle over time, any leaking and it's time to replace before everything goes up into a blaze. Cheap and easy to do, just will have to pull the upper intake and remove the fuel rail.

3. Get a new starter, reman units are usually a big headache. Because you have headers, especailly longtubes, maby look into one of the high-torque mini-starters. Not that much more.

4. What brand headers? If they are cracking, welding might fix it for a while but you'll probally have to do it again in time. Because you live in a norther climate, ceramic coated headers might be worth the extra price. Some BBK 1 5/8ths longtubes in ceramic might be the way to go for you. The ceramic might save a starter as well. The heat from headers has a nasty reputation on starters for heat soaking.

Good luck.
 
Is it hard to get into all gears?

David (5 Spd Gt) and Jrichker have write ups they posts about doing the clutch. Both are very detailed with many part numbers and tips. A search will reveal both.

Good luck.
 
2. Like everyone else said, you can get o-rings at nearly any parts store. But, the pintle are probably brittle as hell. Mine all cracked and fell apart when I took them out. Might want to looking into buying both o-rings and pintel caps.

3. I would go ahead and upgrade to a high torque mini starter. I've seen some new ones run in the $100 range on eBay.

4. If you wanna do it cheap, weld them.
 
Thanks for all the posts guys

I will look into the mini starters.........sound interesting, and a lifetime warrentee is a must

As for the headers, i'll see if we can weld them for now, and i'll get new ones, when I pull it out of storage.

How much are the pintle caps, I think I may change them aswell just in case, or how much are injectors, maybe I should just replace everything. I prefer to change things only once

As for the shifting, it does feel like the clutch isn't disengaging all the way, kinda like shifting through the gears without the clutch in. The owner said it needs a new clutch so thats why I asked...........I will check his posts, and read up on it

Thanks so much guys, I just wanna get driving it, so I can drive it into storage, and out at the end of the season

Duro
 
Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit.. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.

The pintle caps fit either injectors with a pin sticking out the injector end or 4 with more tiny holes in the injector end
 
Well boys
Work had been really busy, Saturday I bump started it, and put her on the hoist

She ran really smooth, but she grinded going into reverse, and hard to get into 1st, and 2nd.........which makes me think the clutch is toast

Anyways, I ordered a high torque mini starter, a dynapac clutch kit, A set of Flowtech headers, a new OEM cable, and MM adjuster, and quad kit, 8 injector sets

I also found 2 holes in the floor pans..............so next spring i'l have those replaced, and a 6 point cage put in

The steering feeling like it is binding.........when stoped, and I turn the wheel, the steering wheel feels like there is a horrible vibration, and apparently the wheels look like there turning in steps......moves a bit, stops,
moves a bit stops, etc....

I will hopefully start tearing it apart tommorrow, if were not busy
Any suggestions/tips on changing this stuff. I am doing it at work, so I have access to almost every mechanic tool you can think of.

Also has anyone used the dynomax clutch?. I am just looking for a stock replacement right now.

Thanks for looking
Duro
 
Return the flotech headers they suck. I had the dynapac clutch from autozone it sucked too. I would of went with the FMS clutch personally. As far as your steering.. Your steering shaft maybe rubbing your headers.
 
Well guys
The tranny is out, and so is the bell housing.............
I am just looking for a stock replacement clutch right now, but i'll look into that

is there anyway around fixing the steering rod rub?, like dropping it or something

And also, when I removed the clutch cable from the clutch pedal, I didn't feel the Quad thingy, it felt like the clutch cable was just attached to the pedel, via small rod to put on , with a clip holding it on, thats it......

Is it normal to have problems removing the bell housing with long tube headers, because I had one hell of a time

Thanks
Cameron