Progress Thread My 89 Gt, Caught Fire....

jrichker · May 29, 2014

madspeed said:
thanks @jrichker. Maybe you can answer this... If I am replacing the harness completely from the computer to the injectors, will I need M12071-C302 and M12071-E302? I would assume there to just be a few unused connectors such as for the airbag wiring?

A quick Google search didn't turn up anything consistently useful, so I guess you have to get your mask, fins, and snorkel and do some Googling yourself...

TOOLOW91 · May 29, 2014

@madspeed Ron Francis makes the harnesses

GroverDill · May 29, 2014

BS3 and Holley set up come with new harness

Chuckman · May 29, 2014

madspeed said:
Anyone have experience with the Ford Racing M-12071-A50 - Ford Racing Wiring Harness?

i think thats basically a kit-car/ffr harness, as i dont seen any of the smog/egr crap in the harness, and the 10-pin connectors are gone (which is probably a good thing). will work fine with a stock ecu, but you will have to get creative with getting it in with the body harness (which, trust me, is a whole other pita if you have to replace that too).

madspeed · May 29, 2014

TOOLOW91 said:
@madspeed Ron Francis makes the harnesses

This what you are referring to? http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TDZ-75

madspeed · May 29, 2014

Looks like the M-12071-A50 is the only Ford harness available and replaced the 2 part harnesses. It doesn't have any provisions for smog/egr which is ok as I have all that removed and disabled in my tune anyhow. It is NOT a direct replacement however. So, not sure about that yet. I may just need to salvage my main harness and replace the efi harness.

Looking at options right now

madspeed · May 29, 2014

@MFE92 and any others with experience upgrading brakes? I will need to replace my master cylinder, or at least the reservoir. If I'm going to replace the whole mc, is it beneficial to go to the Cobra 1" bore mc? Is it a direct bolt in? I still have the factory calipers up front as of now, and still rear drums, but all converted to five lug. Rear discs will come eventually.

I'd better run out and see if I can clarify which actual master cylinder is on the car now

stykthyn · May 29, 2014

That sucks. My car caught fire not long after my rebuild. Killed my dizzy, intake, injector harness and all of my injectors.

madspeed · May 29, 2014

Just finished up the parts list. Buying all new parts at retail price, parts total came to $2300. I have receipts to support much of it. Now I can certainly shop for used parts, and in many cases I likely will, as well as accept some help from my fellow stangnet'ers. The crapshoot at this point will be labor. We've estimated 40 hours which includes changing out the main harness as well as cleanup of soot stained items, and teardown and replace affected parts. Shop rate is $85 per hour.

Total tally at $5700. I dont know at what point they will want to claim total loss, but I'm just under 50% of agreed value.

The ball is in their court now. I'll keep posting updates and questions as they arise.

Thanks fellas

MFE92 · May 30, 2014

madspeed said:
@MFE92 and any others with experience upgrading brakes? I will need to replace my master cylinder, or at least the reservoir. If I'm going to replace the whole mc, is it beneficial to go to the Cobra 1" bore mc? Is it a direct bolt in? I still have the factory calipers up front as of now, and still rear drums, but all converted to five lug. Rear discs will come eventually.

I'd better run out and see if I can clarify which actual master cylinder is on the car now

I would only change the master if you're unhappy with the relationship between pedal travel and pedal effort. If you're happy, leave it alone. If you want a stiffer pedal with less travel, get a bigger bore. If you want a softer pedal with more travel, use a smaller bore.

madspeed · May 30, 2014

Its good where its at now, thanks

madspeed · Jun 3, 2014

Noobz347 said:
Are those FMS wires? That's where the ignition source came from.

Your eyes mustve failed you there

madspeed · Jun 9, 2014

Check arrived from the insurance company. They did reimburse 100% for parts that i listed as being affected, without requiring receipts, which i did in fact have. They apparently use some estimating software for labor hours. Less than satisfied with that. Shop i spoke to had an hourly rate of 85.00, Insurance Company only paid out 55.00 per hour at their estimated hours, which was less than half of what we figured. Looks like i will be in fact rebuilding this myself.

84Ttop · Jun 9, 2014

That's a shame that they can't cover the labor costs... Did you ask them where they found a shop that works for 55$ per hour?

madspeed · Jun 9, 2014

they claim they use the average hourly rate for the geographical area. But, i guess they are now paying ME the 55.00 per hour. i'll track my hours and see how close i get! NOT

FoxMustangLvr · Jun 9, 2014

Did you choose to have the check cut to you personally? Is there not an option to have it fixed at a shop and the Insurance company pays the shop when it's done and the repairs are more or less guaranteed?

Any time I've been in an accident I had the insurance company cut me the check personally so I could do the repairs myself and I end up pocketing half the check.

madspeed · Jun 9, 2014

They cut the check to me. I can take it to a shop and if they find anything additional, they can call to ask for supplemental payment, but hourly rate is not negotiable

madspeed · Jun 9, 2014

I will work on performing the repairs, and should be ahead of the game, but will have missed to Carlisle show, and a few local shows too

tannerc91gt · Jun 9, 2014

Well you've talked me out of lighting mine on fire then

madspeed · Jun 9, 2014

they didn't dispute any parts i claimed. I guess if you're gonna do it, make sure your Dart block melts

Progress Thread My 89 Gt, Caught Fire....

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