Contrary to what some more anal folks will tell you, it is quite possible to achieve a good alignment with a lowered car without expensive aftermarket Caster/Camber plates.......
I had a terrible negative camber after my spring install. here's my #'s
Before camber with upper OEM plate maxed out to +:
left = -1.9 right = -2.5
After camber with NAPA Camber bolt kit installed:
left = -.04 right = -.04
Part #'s for the bolts are 264-3638, you'll need two, about $20 each
Incorrect!!!!..you cannot adjust castor, but you can adjust the camber...not alot but it does have some adjustment. You can't see it by just looking at it, you would have to take off the top plates to see that the holes in the strut tower are slotted. The old 3 bolt style c/c from Steeda use the factory slots to adjust the camber, but add the ablity to adjust the castor with their slotted top plates. To adjust the camber all you need to do is drill out the rivets that are installed at the factory after it is alligned
the reason why I didn't get the c/c plate in the first place is because I've read that many people did not need c/c plate to get perfect alignment with steeda springs.. Guess I/they were wrong..
No they are not wrong. If your alignment tech didn't drill out the rivets in your top plates to adjust your camber he doesn't know how to adjust the wheels on a Mustang. Just go out and look and see if your rivets have been removed.
Download this file and it has some good pics that show the holes where the rivets were and shows how the holes in the strut tower are slotted. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/instructions/MMCC9994v4r4.pdf