My B&M Hammer shifter Vids

So, I'm assuming everything is installed from the top?

Gimme a synopsis of what's involved when you can.

Also, you didn't mention where you picked up the goodies at :)
Here's where the best price is, not the one picture but they send the correct one: http://store.wpsracing.com/shiffor19mus.html
this is the brief version

- you need to remove the shifter bezel and console via the rubber bolts and screws under the hatch.

- disconnect shifter cable from UNDER the car, for me this meant moving my exhaust a bit. to get a wrench in there.

- disconnect the interlock cable from the shifter.

- disconnect all the electrical cables to shifter, this means i need to move out my speedcal untill i install the hot lead on the new shifter.

- Remove stock shifter bolts and shifter.

- install new shifter onto new foam gasket, put knob on in order to adjust later.

- Losen shifter cable adjuster nut as far as you can, move shifter back as far as it will go, then forward three clicks (Neutral).

- Conect cable to rear side of braket using provided self tapping screws. (99+s need the supplied adapter and spacer for this).

- Tighten adjusting nut.

- Losen front adjuster w/ tranny and shifter in neutral, then pull forward a bit to pick up slack and tighten.

- Turn ignition over one click and put shifter into park then install the interlock cable back on.

- now you make sure it's locked out from moving while in park w/out key and you begin to rewire the shifter + the LED light and o/d.

- reinstall console and bezel
 
Wow I dont know where to start! Man thats amazing, I like that! That makes having an auto fun....very fun! I wouldnt ever leave it in drive :D And yea +100 on your car sounding amazing....thats how a stang is supposed to sound :nice: .

Again good job and great job with the comments in the vid!

wow thanks man, means a lot coming from a guy with a car like yours. I've tried throughout my car's journey to make the best outta having an auto, now it'll never see a manual even if it sees built long block and 17psi in the future. Thanks to all of the for the comments, i too love the sound. Making me wanna go drive it right now as a matter of fact
 
Kinda really still, when i got sideways in 1st gear in the first vid it slid over, and shifting into 2nd on the second vid made it almost slide off. You put ur camera on a tripod, spread out the legs then wedge er' between the console and the back seats - it keeps it pretty snug.

edit: wait, that sounded dirty

I made a mount for my brothers car a while ago .. It was a simple idea that worked pretty well. I got a piece of aluminum (had it laying around) and ran it across the headrest (could use wood or whatever). I drilled holes where the headrests are, through the aluminum piece and then slid the headrests through the holes and it held the piece sturdy across both seats. I drilled like 10 holes across it so that he could mount the camera wherever on the bar he wanted on the bar in between the seats.
 
I made a mount for my brothers car a while ago .. It was a simple idea that worked pretty well. I got a piece of aluminum (had it laying around) and ran it across the headrest (could use wood or whatever). I drilled holes where the headrests are, through the aluminum piece and then slid the headrests through the holes and it held the piece sturdy across both seats. I drilled like 10 holes across it so that he could mount the camera wherever on the bar he wanted on the bar in between the seats.

yeah, this is the most common way to mount a cam.
 
Are you guys sure it'll work on my car?

I called B&M today (and I wasn't really expecting the guy to know the answer, but I called anyway) and the "tech" guy Drew said "as long as your car's trans is an AODE, it'll work."

I told him "From 96' (I believe) and up were 4R70W's, not AODE's."

Drew replies "oh."

I also tell him that "if his spec sheet says it'll fit up to a 2000 Mustang, then why wouldn't it fit mine?"

Drew replies "Oh, well I'm not sure then." "As long as you have an AODE, it will work."

I reply "thank you (for nothing)" and hang up.

PFFTTTT.
 
lol san~man you were both right. It's a 4R70W class AODE e for electronic 5.0
s were AOD. It will work, he's jst readin a sheet and you said u didn't have an AODE so he then says no. Green light for you

Thanks. I just don't want to drop $260 or so bucks and have mess around and send it back. That place you referred me to will accept returns, provided the part is unused.

I wonder how some people actually become "Techs" for companies like that, having almost zero knowledge of the cars their parts are built for.

Question: I'm assuming you jacked up the car/jackstands before you began the disassembly of the console, since you had to access the underside of the trans....lol. Your directions make it seem easy, but I'm sure it wasn't "that" easy either.

I gotta finish my HID's before I buy the shifter though....I've had the parts for over a year but have been sitting on my ass.

I wonder what the downside is, if any, to the shifter. I would think that a trans cooler is a necessity with the shifter, since the fluid heats up more than regular (just a guess).
 
Thanks. I just don't want to drop $260 or so bucks and have mess around and send it back. That place you referred me to will accept returns, provided the part is unused.

I wonder how some people actually become "Techs" for companies like that, having almost zero knowledge of the cars their parts are built for.

Question: I'm assuming you jacked up the car/jackstands before you began the disassembly of the console, since you had to access the underside of the trans....lol. Your directions make it seem easy, but I'm sure it wasn't "that" easy either.

I gotta finish my HID's before I buy the shifter though....I've had the parts for over a year but have been sitting on my ass.

I wonder what the downside is, if any, to the shifter. I would think that a trans cooler is a necessity with the shifter, since the fluid heats up more than regular (just a guess).

haha it's not easy by any means, more of a bitch than technical tho. I dissembled the console before going under the car w/ stands. Only reason the tranny would get hotter with this is downshifts that spike the rpms a bit in therefore make more heat, but it's not substantial. You should have a tranny cooler regardless tho.
 
haha it's not easy by any means, more of a bitch than technical tho. I dissembled the console before going under the car w/ stands. Only reason the tranny would get hotter with this is downshifts that spike the rpms a bit in therefore make more heat, but it's not substantial. You should have a tranny cooler regardless tho.

Ya, did that long ago when I did the TC and Jmod.

Guess I'll order it for myself before October and install it on my vacation.
 
Thanks. I just don't want to drop $260 or so bucks and have mess around and send it back. That place you referred me to will accept returns, provided the part is unused.

I wonder how some people actually become "Techs" for companies like that, having almost zero knowledge of the cars their parts are built for.

Question: I'm assuming you jacked up the car/jackstands before you began the disassembly of the console, since you had to access the underside of the trans....lol. Your directions make it seem easy, but I'm sure it wasn't "that" easy either.

I gotta finish my HID's before I buy the shifter though....I've had the parts for over a year but have been sitting on my ass.

I wonder what the downside is, if any, to the shifter. I would think that a trans cooler is a necessity with the shifter, since the fluid heats up more than regular (just a guess).


yes you do, along with mine. :nice:
 
That doesn't make it the equivalent of having a manual valve body, does it? Functionally, it's still the same as moving the stock shifter from 1 to 2 to D, isn't it?

Just wondering.

this is correct. It provides you with the comfort of knowing that no matter how hard you slam the f'r forward your only shifting up once, and you'll never accidently go in R or P because those are locked out and need to paddle to move back into that area. Besides these features it's the obvious looks factor. And dont foreget you can go 1-2-D-[red button] for 1 through 4
 
Your video made me want that shifter so bad!!!! I saw it on youtube before I realized you were on here and my questions about it got answered.
I just got my built trans in and I will be installing it and a trans cooler this weekend. I wish I had this shifter to go with it.

The only other thing I want to know is about the handle. Is the quiksilver an option or did you have to buy that seperate. Would any 5 spd shift knob fit on it?

Thanks
 
The 2-3 shift is delayed b/c the only way to make shifting from 2-D happen when you command it with the shifter is a full manual valve body. The 1-2 shift doesn't have that delay. You have to keep in mind that works just like the factory shifter with the exception to the way you manually put it into gear, if that makes sense.
 
is it just me, or are the shifts delayed by about 2 seconds? looks interesting, but i don't think it would work for me.

I can make a vid at full throttle and it will happen as soon as i hit it. Shifting in D from 2 puts it into drive and then awaits the auto's approval for an up shift based on how much gas is given. All down shifts are immediate, and the 1-2 and 3-4 shift is on command.