I have a aode with a torque convertor that has about a 2k stall on it. When I go to put it into gear whether it be reverse or drive, the car almost stalls and dies. Is this an issue with my convertor? I am going to check/clean the IAC and check for vacuum leaks. Does anyone know what may be causing this? I am also getting a CEL that is coming on after driving a bit so I don't know if that would have anything to do with it. Trying to read those codes is annoying. Please help!
My car almost stalls when I put it into gear...
- Thread starter JDubz50
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Pull the codes. Not likely it is a problem with the transmission. The IAC seems the most likely, but get the codes first.
Kurt
Kurt
The IAC valve's function is to adjust the air flow for idle load changes as described or the A/C cycling on and off. The IAC valve cannot be meaningfully be cleaned to make it work better. It's an on/off solenoid. If it's original the solenoid maybe sticking or not working at all. If that is the case it needs to be replaced.
I don't think the ones you order online are any better than the ones you get in the parts stores.
Kurt
Kurt
I don't think there is a whole lot of difference to be honest with you. Most of the Motorcraft original parts are now made by aftermarket companies anyway now, especially on cars that old, so it's all the same crap. I think most of the people on this forum are recommending the BWD brand, but I wouldn't be surprised if all that is just a rebranding of Standard Motor products.
Kurt
Kurt
See the "Surging Idle Checklist” for help with all your idle/stall problems. You can guess at the problem and throw parts at it, or you can use the checklist to help you find the problem quickly and inexpensively.
The quick and easy way to dump the codes is in there too, and all you need to do it is a paper clip! The first two posts contain all the fixes & updates. At last count there were 24 possible causes and fixes for surging idle/stall problems. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.
The quick and easy way to dump the codes is in there too, and all you need to do it is a paper clip! The first two posts contain all the fixes & updates. At last count there were 24 possible causes and fixes for surging idle/stall problems. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.
I am not sure if I read these correctly but when I did the KOEO test these are what I think the codes are: 113,157,176, and 543. I havent done the engine running test yet since I need to drive it and get it warmed up to operating temp. I looked up the codes but I still am a little confused on what they are trying to say and how to solve them. Thank you for your help. I will definately take a look at the checklist you posted. Thanks again for all your help!
Since you don't know if these are current codes or something left from a long time ago I would clear all the codes (disconnect the - terminal at the battery for 15 minutes) and run the car through a couple of warm up and driving cycles, then check the codes again. 113 would indicate a bad AIT (ait intake temperature) sensor. 157 may be a bad or dirty MAF sensor. Remove the MAF and spray well with MAF cleaner. 176 shows a lean condition on the left bank. That may be related to the bad readings of the AIT and MAF. 543 may be an old code as it indicates that the fuel pump circuit is open.
I just cleared the codes when I installed the new plugs/wires, cold air intake, and a new Pro-M MAF, so I dont think the MAF is dirty. I had the battery disconnected for like 4 hours so that should have cleared them. I will double check that everything is hooked up right and clear the codes again. Ill let you know what happens. Thank You.
Okay guys I cleared the codes and took a little cruise and ran the tests again. Here is what I got:
KOEO:
176 - System Indicates Lean (Bank No. 2)
KOER:
116 - Engine Coolant Temperature Higher Or Lower Than Expected
136 - System Indicates Lean (Bank No. 1)
536 - Brake On/Off Circuit Failure/Not Actuated During KOER
632 - Torque Converter Solenoid Circuit Did Not Change States During KOER
Okay so I think I was supposed to do something with my brake and o/d switch during the KOER test but I didnt know. Anyways, where do I start with the other codes? Are both of my o2 sensors bad? And is my Engine Coolant Temp sensor bad as well? Is it okay for me to drive it still with these codes being thrown? Thanks again for all of your help.
KOEO:
176 - System Indicates Lean (Bank No. 2)
KOER:
116 - Engine Coolant Temperature Higher Or Lower Than Expected
136 - System Indicates Lean (Bank No. 1)
536 - Brake On/Off Circuit Failure/Not Actuated During KOER
632 - Torque Converter Solenoid Circuit Did Not Change States During KOER
Okay so I think I was supposed to do something with my brake and o/d switch during the KOER test but I didnt know. Anyways, where do I start with the other codes? Are both of my o2 sensors bad? And is my Engine Coolant Temp sensor bad as well? Is it okay for me to drive it still with these codes being thrown? Thanks again for all of your help.
Driving won't hurt anything other than performance. O2 sensors have a finite life like most things. If they have seen 60k miles I would replace them. The ECT sensor most likely needs to be replaced. . Make sure all engine grounds are good especially the battery to engine.
No. The O2's are before the cats on a stock setup so an O/R pipe doesn't affect the readings..
Similar threads
