My car has problems

[Lawbreaker5.0]

Calling all stangnet'ers. So a while back i finished the 4 cyl to 5.0 swap on my 93 coupe. I thought all was well and kept on truckin. Well i noticed a pool of coolant building up around the thermo/dist area so i tore the upper off to inspect. After a quick pressure test i found out the coolant pipe was leaking were it pipes into the lower. I took it off and notice a couple threads were stripped in the lower. F**k! It must have been from the PO so i put a crap load of thread sealant and luckily it stopped. Well my driverside rocker arms (stock) were making lots of noise and I read that there is an actual procedure to install them. Previously i just threw them on and torqued to 20ft lbs. So all went well expect one rocker would never reach 0 lash. I was helped by another stanger to shave down the trunion a little and it worked. I got it to zero lash and it hit torque with in .5 of a turn. Alright so i'm done.

Not!!
I had previously had the egr delete plate rtv'd together (some may saw the other thread) and I could only find one 65mm gasket locally so I replaced the one between egr plate and intake. I left the other rtv(to the TB) on since it didn't show a sign of leaking like the other gasket did.

I started her up and the rockers were making tons of noise. I figure since i hadn't started the car in a couple weeks and i had taken all rockers off the oil just needed to get up to the rockers. After a few min the passenger side quit making noise but the driverside made noise still. The main side intially. The car was surging now so i checked for vacuum leaks and i have a fuel pressure guage connected to shrader valve. The thing was jumping around pretty bad. Before all this the adj FPR would never let me adjust it. I always thought that was weird. I could unscrew it all the way and nothing would change and when i screwed it in it would barely move the PSI.

Anyway i ran codes and got KOEO 31,81,82,85,84 and KEOR 12,26,94,44,31.
I unhooked the battery for a few min and hooked it back up. I clocked the maf which made 99%of the surge go away and ran codes again. 26 disapeared but the rest stayed.

I decided to do a cyl bal test. first time up I got 6,5,2. Turned the car off and ran it again and got 8,7,5,2. I thought this was wierd. This was earlier today.

I just ran out there again and did anther cyl bal test and first time it displayed 5. I ripped the throttle again and it showed 8,7. WTFFFFFFFFF!!!

I figure i'm gonna have to do a compression test but i'm very scared with theses gt40p's. Do they make an 90 adapter to attach to the compression tester? I really had a hard time puttin on these macs since they don't have a single flange and i do not want to take the headers off if all possible

Ideas and suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks

Car has gt40p's with TFS springs,explorer intake, Tfs stage 1 cam all supporting mods. I freshened up the bottom end with new rings and bearings before I threw the 5.0 motor in.

 

[jrichker]

Sticking or misadjusted valves will cause the vacuum gauge to sweep or jump around each time a cylinder comes up on compression.

Copied from Michael Yount’s valve adjustment procedure

Here's an easy way to determine this. Start with the #1 cylinder. Rotate the engine with a ratchet on the crank bolt clockwise. Watch the #1 pushrods. First the exhaust pushrod will rise and fall signaling what would be the exhaust valve opening and closing if the rocker were on. As it closes the intake pushrod will rise -- keep rotating clockwise until the intake pushrod falls and is level with the exhaust pushrod - both at the same height. Both lifters are now on the base circle of the cam - both valves would be closed if the rockers were on.

Now, install both rockers. Tighten the bolts with one hand while rocking the rocker with the other hand - continue until you reach the point where you can't 'rock' the rocker any more because there's no gap on the valve stem end or the pushrod end. You are at zero lash - i.e. - no gaps. Stop tightening just as you reach this point.

Now, put your torque wrench on the bolt and tighten it to 18-20 ft-lbs while counting the number of turns it takes to reach the torque. You should hit the torque within 1/4 to 1 turn of the bolt. If it takes more than 1 turn, use a shim to raise the rocker -- each .030" shim will reduce the number of turns to torque by about 1/4 turn. If you reach the torque in less than a 1/4 turn, or you have trouble reaching zero lash even at full torque, then you'll either need longer pushrods, or to CAREFULLY remove some material from the bottom of the rocker fulcrum. Using the procedure described above, you will work through the remaining 7 pairs of rockers. If you follow the firing order, it will minimize the manual cranking you have to do to get the lifters on the base circle of the cam prior to installation of the next pair.

When I first went through mine, 13 of them took no shims; 3 of them took 1 .030" shim. Upon cranking it up, one or two of them sounded a bit noisier than I thought was right, so with the engine hot, I pulled the upper off, and the valve covers, and went through the installation procedure again. That time, 11 of them took no shims; 4 of them took one .030", and one of them took 1 .060" shim. And they were very quiet running.

Good luck with it.
__________________
Michael Yount - K'ville,TN 82 Volvo 242w/5.0L; 2000 Suzuki Bandit 1200



The code 26 is probably the source of some of the rough running problem. Fix it after you have checked the valve adjustment.
Code 26 - Mass Air Flow out of range – MAF

There are three parts in a MAF: the heater, the sensor element and the amplifier. The heater heats the MAF sensor element causing the resistance to increase. The amplifier buffers the MAF output signal and has a resistor that is laser trimmed to provide an output range compatible with the computer's load tables.

The MAF element is secured by 2 screws & has 1 wiring connector. To clean the element, remove it from the MAF housing and spray it down with electronic parts cleaner or non-inflammable brake parts cleaner (same stuff in a bigger can and cheaper too).

Look for 12 volts across pins A & B.

The MAF output varies with RPM which causes the airflow to increase or decease. The increase of air across the MAF sensor element causes it to cool, allowing more voltage to pass and telling the computer to increase the fuel flow. A decrease in airflow causes the MAF sensor element to get warmer, decreasing the voltage and reducing the fuel flow. Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer.

At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt

Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring. Pin D on the MAF and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms.

There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF and ground.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

The cylinder balance test will not run correctly as long as you have code 12 & idle problems. It will give random results like those you are seeing. Fix the idle so that it ldles at a constant speed and then try the cylinder balance test.

See the "Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle/stall problems. Everything you need to find and fix idle problems is in there.

The first two posts contain all the updates to the fixes. At last count there were 24 possible causes and fixes for surging idle/stall problems. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.


The rest of the codes are emissions related and will not cause the problems you are experiencing.

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

Sticking or misadjusted valves will cause the vacuum gauge to sweep or jump around each time a cylinder comes up on compression.

Copied from Michael Yount’s valve adjustment procedure

Here's an easy way to determine this. Start with the #1 cylinder. Rotate the engine with a ratchet on the crank bolt clockwise. Watch the #1 pushrods. First the exhaust pushrod will rise and fall signaling what would be the exhaust valve opening and closing if the rocker were on. As it closes the intake pushrod will rise -- keep rotating clockwise until the intake pushrod falls and is level with the exhaust pushrod - both at the same height. Both lifters are now on the base circle of the cam - both valves would be closed if the rockers were on.

Now, install both rockers. Tighten the bolts with one hand while rocking the rocker with the other hand - continue until you reach the point where you can't 'rock' the rocker any more because there's no gap on the valve stem end or the pushrod end. You are at zero lash - i.e. - no gaps. Stop tightening just as you reach this point.

Now, put your torque wrench on the bolt and tighten it to 18-20 ft-lbs while counting the number of turns it takes to reach the torque. You should hit the torque within 1/4 to 1 turn of the bolt. If it takes more than 1 turn, use a shim to raise the rocker -- each .030" shim will reduce the number of turns to torque by about 1/4 turn. If you reach the torque in less than a 1/4 turn, or you have trouble reaching zero lash even at full torque, then you'll either need longer pushrods, or to CAREFULLY remove some material from the bottom of the rocker fulcrum. Using the procedure described above, you will work through the remaining 7 pairs of rockers. If you follow the firing order, it will minimize the manual cranking you have to do to get the lifters on the base circle of the cam prior to installation of the next pair.

When I first went through mine, 13 of them took no shims; 3 of them took 1 .030" shim. Upon cranking it up, one or two of them sounded a bit noisier than I thought was right, so with the engine hot, I pulled the upper off, and the valve covers, and went through the installation procedure again. That time, 11 of them took no shims; 4 of them took one .030", and one of them took 1 .060" shim. And they were very quiet running.

Good luck with it.
__________________
Michael Yount - K'ville,TN 82 Volvo 242w/5.0L; 2000 Suzuki Bandit 1200



The code 26 is probably the source of some of the rough running problem. Fix it after you have checked the valve adjustment.
Code 26 - Mass Air Flow out of range – MAF

There are three parts in a MAF: the heater, the sensor element and the amplifier. The heater heats the MAF sensor element causing the resistance to increase. The amplifier buffers the MAF output signal and has a resistor that is laser trimmed to provide an output range compatible with the computer's load tables.

The MAF element is secured by 2 screws & has 1 wiring connector. To clean the element, remove it from the MAF housing and spray it down with electronic parts cleaner or non-inflammable brake parts cleaner (same stuff in a bigger can and cheaper too).

Look for 12 volts across pins A & B.

The MAF output varies with RPM which causes the airflow to increase or decease. The increase of air across the MAF sensor element causes it to cool, allowing more voltage to pass and telling the computer to increase the fuel flow. A decrease in airflow causes the MAF sensor element to get warmer, decreasing the voltage and reducing the fuel flow. Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer.

At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt

Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring. Pin D on the MAF and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms.

There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF and ground.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

The cylinder balance test will not run correctly as long as you have code 12 & idle problems. It will give random results like those you are seeing. Fix the idle so that it ldles at a constant speed and then try the cylinder balance test.

See the "Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle/stall problems. Everything you need to find and fix idle problems is in there.

The first two posts contain all the updates to the fixes. At last count there were 24 possible causes and fixes for surging idle/stall problems. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.


The rest of the codes are emissions related and will not cause the problems you are experiencing.

Thanks Jrichker, like I posted, code 26 disppeared after I clocked the maf and the idle surge did to. That is the write up i followed when i adjusted the valves and Michael Yount is the one who told me to shave down the trunnion on the one rocker that wouldn't hit zero lash.
Now i was refering to the FUEL pressure gauge when i said it was bouncing all from say 32-40 ish with vacuum on.

I'm glad you said the cyl bal test will not work with code 12. I guess thats why the cylinders keep changing everytime i do the test?

I really don't know how to get rid of the code 12. I've read that the idle is too low? should i bump the idle up to 900 or so?, right now i have it pretty close to 750rpm.

I also can grab another IAC from the convertible if code 12 is a sign of a bad one. It seems there is not a lot of information about code 12 on the net.

Things i'm really concerned are:
Fuel pressure jumping now
code 12

 

[jrichker]

Code 12 -Idle Air Bypass motor not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - IAB dirty or not working. Take it off and clean it thoroughly with throttle body cleaner. Clean the electrical contacts with non flammable brake parts cleaner at the same time.

If cleaning the IAB does not fix the code 12, then consider replacing it. The cylinder balance test depends on thew IAB working properly to set the engine RPM at the 1400-1600 RPM point.

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

So i changed out the IAC with the one i had on my vert and the code 12 disapeared. I had the adj plate on the IAC and did not want to break it so i left it on the IAC and installed it on my coupe. THe idle was now at 1000 rpms so i unplugged the IAC and turned it back down to 800 ish and checked tps and it was at .97. I take it around the block and my part throttle hesitation is gone and doesn't bog or backfire. It was surging intially so i'm wondering if the adj plate could cause that since it wasn't doing that before. How does that plate work? all I know is that it allows air to pass so i'm wondering if its causing a "vacuum leak"? ideas?

Also i noticed my exhaust sounds louder (macs from headers to tips) since i adjusted the rockers. Does that mean its producing more flow which makes it louder?

Edit: balance test came back 90