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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

My Four Eyed Project!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter MustangMobster
  • Start date Start date Jan 7, 2011
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MustangMobster

New Member
Apr 21, 2010
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N.Charleston
Jan 7, 2011
#1
  • Jan 7, 2011
  • #1
This is something I've wanted to do since I was little and at 19 I get to begin alittle earlier than expected . I have a 1984 232 3.8 v6 with TBI, which produces a whopping 120 hp and 205 lb/ft. It also has the best paint job ever and a great top. On a serious note though I do have alot planned for this sexy mama, and I'm up to any advise, I'm considering turbo charging it, but not sure. Your help and advice will be appreciated.






 

NIKwoaC

中國製造
15 Year Member
Oct 31, 2006
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Jan 7, 2011
#2
  • Jan 7, 2011
  • #2
Step 1: Bodywork.
 
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MustangMobster

New Member
Apr 21, 2010
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Jan 7, 2011
#3
  • Jan 7, 2011
  • #3
NikwoaC said:
Step 1: Bodywork.
Click to expand...

Lol yeah I went to Maaco the other day, just for a quote, they quoted it at 2500 worth of work. I was kinda pissed cuz it only needs the driver side fender and a new trunk (and obvious a sand, prime, and paint). I found both yesterday at the junkyard and the trunk was a no go because they cut the lock out and the fender was a go until I unbolted everything and it was stuck between the car and the thing holding the car up..once I got it off I ruined it. But yes that is my second goal, my first being replacing the tired that bust last weekend.
 

Boosted92LX

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?
15 Year Member
Dec 19, 2010
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Jan 7, 2011
#4
  • Jan 7, 2011
  • #4
And if/when you decide to sand it down, don't do like I did and destroy all of the body trim pulling it off and throw it away! It's not cheap, and hard to find. A lot of people quit reproducing it!
 
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MustangMobster

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Apr 21, 2010
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Jan 7, 2011
#5
  • Jan 7, 2011
  • #5
Oh I definitely won't do that but one part will have to be replaced or glued down atleast & I'll have to repaint it.
 

1bad67sbf

Active Member
Nov 24, 2010
674
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N. VA
Jan 7, 2011
#6
  • Jan 7, 2011
  • #6
get your parts you need and start sanding!!! then pull the six banger and paint the car and engine bay at the same time. then drop some SBF power in it.
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
1,203
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Taxachusetts
Jan 7, 2011
#7
  • Jan 7, 2011
  • #7
Take your time with it, rome wasn't built in a day. I don't know if maaco would be tops on my list, I see alot of juice being used and probally within a year that thing will be breaking out everywhere. The pic you posted of the wheel you can see a good amount of rust in the wheel opening/lower quater & rocker. Make a plan, do you want to keep it long term or drive it for a few and sell this will help you decide the best way to do the project. go to a few shops for prices, it is going to need some sandblasting, and rust work on top of replacing a few bolt on panels to try and halt the rust. make sure the critical areas are sound before getting your heart set on it, places like the strut tower/frame seam, fire wall area, frame/floor areas where the k-member bolts on, torque boxes etc. best of luck and have fun with it.
 

striker911

Member
Aug 6, 2008
156
1
18
Mountain Home, AR
Jan 7, 2011
#8
  • Jan 7, 2011
  • #8
Fine I will be nice. Vert is okay but still it looks like hell. Good luck. Just to put it out here. I know everyone was thinking it. Just ponder getting a better one for a while.
 

Boosted92LX

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?
15 Year Member
Dec 19, 2010
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Jan 7, 2011
#9
  • Jan 7, 2011
  • #9
skunk21 said:
Take your time with it, rome wasn't built in a day. I don't know if maaco would be tops on my list, I see alot of juice being used and probally within a year that thing will be breaking out everywhere. The pic you posted of the wheel you can see a good amount of rust in the wheel opening/lower quater & rocker. Make a plan, do you want to keep it long term or drive it for a few and sell this will help you decide the best way to do the project. go to a few shops for prices, it is going to need some sandblasting, and rust work on top of replacing a few bolt on panels to try and halt the rust. make sure the critical areas are sound before getting your heart set on it, places like the strut tower/frame seam, fire wall area, frame/floor areas where the k-member bolts on, torque boxes etc. best of luck and have fun with it.
Click to expand...

.....also, not a critical part, but mine always tried to break out at the bottom of the door, inside where the skin folds around the shell at the bottom. This can be overlooked too, if you're not careful.
 
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MustangMobster

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Jan 8, 2011
#10
  • Jan 8, 2011
  • #10
The frame isn't rusted, but the struts and springs will have to be replaced because they are really warn, I want to put the SSP suspension kit on it, but I can't seem to find it. But I am going to check with a few local places to see how much they would charge to sand, sand blast, prime, paint and etc. And maaco wasn't my number 1 choice, but they had a sell so I had to come by.
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
1,203
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Taxachusetts
Jan 8, 2011
#11
  • Jan 8, 2011
  • #11
SSeater said:
.....also, not a critical part, but mine always tried to break out at the bottom of the door, inside where the skin folds around the shell at the bottom. This can be overlooked too, if you're not careful.
Click to expand...

It is , you can see in the pics that the doors are starting on the bottoms + the core support has some surface rust, etc, etc. I just didn't want to overwhelm him, a project like this can go easy but somethings will have to lets say be "overlooked" and made into a driver then flipped or suck the life out of you.

For the SSP suspension police package mustangs used the stock suspension except the later years used a "police" rear upper control arms. THe rear arms are can still be had by PPI and a few other sources.
 

Shaolin Crane

Banned
Oct 6, 2008
2,627
7
0
Kommiefornia
Jan 8, 2011
#12
  • Jan 8, 2011
  • #12
NikwoaC said:
Step 1: Sell a kidney
Click to expand...
Fixed
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
1,203
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36
Taxachusetts
Jan 8, 2011
#13
  • Jan 8, 2011
  • #13
^^^ for starters.
 

SMOKEDYA

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 13, 2003
3,637
8
79
Tucson AZ
Jan 9, 2011
#14
  • Jan 9, 2011
  • #14
skunk21 said:
It is , you can see in the pics that the doors are starting on the bottoms + the core support has some surface rust, etc, etc. I just didn't want to overwhelm him, a project like this can go easy but somethings will have to lets say be "overlooked" and made into a driver then flipped or suck the life out of you.

For the SSP suspension police package mustangs used the stock suspension except the later years used a "police" rear upper control arms. THe rear arms are can still be had by PPI and a few other sources.
Click to expand...

There is no diffrence in the suspension of SSP stangs and normal mustangs.my 93SSP didnt have any so if there was?It was on the 94+ cars or even newer or the crowns. SSPMUSTANG.ORG Message Forums - Powered by vBulletin
 
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MustangMobster

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Apr 21, 2010
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N.Charleston
Jan 9, 2011
#15
  • Jan 9, 2011
  • #15
Oh well I guess I can't end my SSP search than. Guess I can go back to focusing on getting the left fender n trunk, and fixing the rust. I saw a Edelbrock competition suspension kit for about 600, I mite look into that.
 
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MustangMobster

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Apr 21, 2010
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Jan 9, 2011
#16
  • Jan 9, 2011
  • #16
A friend of mine was saying something about putting Lincoln Mark brakes on it, anyone know if that would work?
 

1987LXragtop

Member
Jan 26, 2008
837
3
18
Just outside Philly PA
Jan 9, 2011
#17
  • Jan 9, 2011
  • #17
Hows the underneath? Floor pans? Verts have a funny way of hiding rust.
 
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MustangMobster

New Member
Apr 21, 2010
132
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Jan 9, 2011
#18
  • Jan 9, 2011
  • #18
A lot of dirt n a few bolts that need replacing but the parts that I've check aren't to rusted. But my front suspension need work.
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
1,203
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36
Taxachusetts
Jan 10, 2011
#19
  • Jan 10, 2011
  • #19
SMOKEDYA said:
There is no diffrence in the suspension of SSP stangs and normal mustangs.my 93SSP didnt have any so if there was?It was on the 94+ cars or even newer or the crowns. SSPMUSTANG.ORG Message Forums - Powered by vBulletin
Click to expand...

SSP Frequently asked questions

quote from the FAQ..

" All SSP cars came with the same standard Mustang suspension and front disc/rear drum brakes and 4 lug wheels and the handling proved adequate with this suspension; special control arms were added near the end of the SSP program to help improve stability. The real complaint came with the power and light rear causing handling problems in wet and snowy weather, which is why these cars received more widespread service in the southern states; Troopers in some states with winter weather actually refused to drive them in inclement conditions! In Michigan, for example, the cars' mileage stayed much lower than comparable Texas or CHP units...no surprise. Nevertheless, the cars were used in colder climates, such as Wisconsin, Minnesota, Michigan, Colorado, Wyoming, and New York."


from another ssp source

Special Service Mustang.net Technical Section

qoute from tech info..

"Ford really started offering some neat items in the '87-'93 run for SSPs, including oil and transmission coolers, heavy-duty alternators (from 1987-1991, Lestek externally regulated. 1992-1992 were Motorcraft, internally regulated), new-rear upper control arms (for '92-'93, with heavier durometer bushings), etc.

Police rear upper control arms from PPI

PPI | Suspension | 1979-1993




 
M

MustangMobster

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Jan 10, 2011
#20
  • Jan 10, 2011
  • #20
That's what's up!! My only question now is would they fit my 84?
 
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