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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

My Four Eyed Project!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter MustangMobster
  • Start date Start date Jan 7, 2011
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skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
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Jan 11, 2011
#21
  • Jan 11, 2011
  • #21
MustangMobster said:
That's what's up!! My only question now is would they fit my 84?
Click to expand...

yes. I'm running those upper arms and maximum motorsports lowers with '01 bullitt springs.
 
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MustangMobster

New Member
Apr 21, 2010
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Jan 11, 2011
#22
  • Jan 11, 2011
  • #22
How big of a difference does it make in the handling? And do you know anything about putting lincoln brakes on a mustang?
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
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Jan 11, 2011
#23
  • Jan 11, 2011
  • #23
MustangMobster said:
How big of a difference does it make in the handling? And do you know anything about putting lincoln brakes on a mustang?
Click to expand...

it makes a noticeable difference.
 
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MustangMobster

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Apr 21, 2010
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Jan 11, 2011
#24
  • Jan 11, 2011
  • #24
That's good and they aren't that expensive either. Anyone know where I can get some good, but not overly expensive springs?
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
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Jan 12, 2011
#25
  • Jan 12, 2011
  • #25
plenty of places to get springs at a good price, do a search on springs when you get a chance and there will be plenty of info. might want to concentrate on the body first though maybe
 
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MustangMobster

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Jan 12, 2011
#26
  • Jan 12, 2011
  • #26
Well that's obvious lol, always plan ahead. Failure to plan is planning to fail.
 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
15 Year Member
Dec 14, 2010
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Jan 12, 2011
#27
  • Jan 12, 2011
  • #27
I don't think sanding will cut it buddy. you need to take it to bare metal first and see what is rusted and what needs to be replaced. THEN worry about your springs and such. I do body work on the side and have seen "solid" cars turn to swiss cheese when stripped.
 
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BullittB

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Dec 27, 2010
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Jan 12, 2011
#28
  • Jan 12, 2011
  • #28
^AGREED!! and rust "fixed" poorly or incorrectly just comes back so dont waste your time and do it right if your going to do it at all.
 
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MustangMobster

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Apr 21, 2010
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Jan 12, 2011
#29
  • Jan 12, 2011
  • #29
Every place I've been says the samething which is replace the left fender and trunk, and the rest is sandable. I mean I plan on having it sanded down to bare metal before priming it anyways,but I'm not trying to dwell on the obvious.
 
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MustangMobster

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Jan 13, 2011
#30
  • Jan 13, 2011
  • #30
Now I'm tempted to do the body work on my own to make sure it gets done correctly, but at the same time I have no experience with rust or paint removal so I'm not sure if I will do it correctly. Kind of a catch 22
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
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Taxachusetts
Jan 13, 2011
#31
  • Jan 13, 2011
  • #31
MustangMobster said:
Now I'm tempted to do the body work on my own to make sure it gets done correctly, but at the same time I have no experience with rust or paint removal so I'm not sure if I will do it correctly. Kind of a catch 22
Click to expand...

How do know it's done correctly if you have no experience . just looking at the few pics you posted it's beyond basic tools and a little experience. this thing is going to need cutting, grinding, welding, some metal work,ect. I can see this going wrong quickly. what kind of shop you got around you anways giving that advice, the pass side rear wheel opening and rocker ( in the pic you posted) is beyond just sanding and I'm sure that isn't the only spot. The bottom of the doors just by looking at them are gone if not real close but they sure aren't surface rust. She needs alot of work by a pro if you can find one but keep looking.
 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
15 Year Member
Dec 14, 2010
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Jan 13, 2011
#32
  • Jan 13, 2011
  • #32
Sanding wil take FOREVER if you try and get the whole car to bare metal. Find a paint supply store and buy some stripper. use a paint brush to apply it and then wait a few minutes. the paint will wrinkle up and you can scrape it off with a putty knife. Then sand what is left to get a workable surface. It will make life alot easier for you.
 
M

MustangMobster

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Jan 13, 2011
#33
  • Jan 13, 2011
  • #33
skunk21 said:
How do know it's done correctly if you have no experience . just looking at the few pics you posted it's beyond basic tools and a little experience. this thing is going to need cutting, grinding, welding, some metal work,ect. I can see this going wrong quickly. what kind of shop you got around you anways giving that advice, the pass side rear wheel opening and rocker ( in the pic you posted) is beyond just sanding and I'm sure that isn't the only spot. The bottom of the doors just by looking at them are gone if not real close but they sure aren't surface rust. She needs alot of work by a pro if you can find one but keep looking.
Click to expand...

That's my point I DON'T have any experience or knowledge with body work to know if its done right or wrong, and thats why I don't wanna do the body work myself besides stripping the paint and replacing the fender and trunk. However, the places in my town that I know of are 1)professional but out of my price range 2) side places that have done good paint jobs, but I've never seen them handle this type of situation 3) Maaco. Thats pretty much all I have found. And can you explain what you mean by the bottom of my doors are gone? I keep looking to see what you mean but I don't get it.
 
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MustangMobster

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Apr 21, 2010
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Jan 13, 2011
#34
  • Jan 13, 2011
  • #34
hoopty5.0 said:
Sanding wil take FOREVER if you try and get the whole car to bare metal. Find a paint supply store and buy some stripper. use a paint brush to apply it and then wait a few minutes. the paint will wrinkle up and you can scrape it off with a putty knife. Then sand what is left to get a workable surface. It will make life alot easier for you.
Click to expand...

Well that I can do
 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
15 Year Member
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Jan 13, 2011
#35
  • Jan 13, 2011
  • #35
MustangMobster said:
And can you explain what you mean by the bottom of my doors are gone? I keep looking to see what you mean but I don't get it.
Click to expand...

He means that they are badly rusted. You'd be better off replacing them instead of fixing. I'd start with a salvage yard. The less bodywork you have to do, the better. There is also craigslist. I saw a complete body for $600 the other day in great shape...
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
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Jan 13, 2011
#36
  • Jan 13, 2011
  • #36
MustangMobster said:
That's my point I DON'T have any experience or knowledge with body work to know if its done right or wrong, and thats why I don't wanna do the body work myself besides stripping the paint and replacing the fender and trunk. However, the places in my town that I know of are 1)professional but out of my price range 2) side places that have done good paint jobs, but I've never seen them handle this type of situation 3) Maaco. Thats pretty much all I have found. And can you explain what you mean by the bottom of my doors are gone? I keep looking to see what you mean but I don't get it.
Click to expand...

I'm going by the pics you posted and I can see rust on the bottom edges of the doors. The pic of the pass. side profile I can see some on the bottom of the door. This area is prone to it and very hard to fix correctly, chances are very high once sandblasting/grinding is done holes are going to form. I would do has much work possible within your skill level and let the shop to the rest or some more work in the hard areas and you continue the prep, etc. find a shop that will work with through the process. give them a task and take the car back and you continue the work and so on. keep in mind this gets expensive real fast and you haven't even modded yet. little stuff will keep popping up during the process and drive you nuts.
 
D

Drews93fox

Member
Feb 22, 2010
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17
Danville, Iowa
Jan 13, 2011
#37
  • Jan 13, 2011
  • #37
You know there is only one way to learn.... Get a book on body work and read it. Once you have gone as far as you can then hand it off to the pros. That is what I end up doing with my car and it turned out great. I also learned alot by the time that i was done. Just my .02
 
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MustangMobster

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#38
  • Jan 13, 2011
  • #38
Well the door way has rust around it on the passenger, but there's not much on the actual door. And I've found a guy with an 85 that I'm getting the fender from, do you know if the door off a hatchback would work with my convertible? And what all do you guys think needs to be done. I'm not planning on modding the engine anytime soon my next step is gonna be the suspension and interior.
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
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Jan 13, 2011
#39
  • Jan 13, 2011
  • #39
A door from a hardtop will not work, you need a door from a vert. The ssanding and stripping is the easy part. The part you need to find is the real nasty rust and rust that is going to cause holes or is real bad ( more than just surface rust) in plain english rust is cancer and if you don't get it within a year or even less it will be back and bubble the new paint, etc. making all your effort and $$ worthless. Take it panel by panel, section by section. example when working the door, do the jamb remove the door seals ( rust will hide behind them), door panels, etc and get every square inch then move on to lets say the quater again work every inch, grind, sandblast get everything. it's the only way. pull both doors, fenders, hood, trunk, all the trim, etc so you can get too has much area as possible. use very little filler, only a skim coat to fill in minor low spots, pits or panel repairs. large amounts of filler will crack and be wavey. sandblasting is a really good idea, grinding isn't going to get all the rust out of those spots and leaving any behind means it's coming back. treating the spots with a converter after will also work.

just taking 1 of your pics, again this is a pretty decent project..


if you look at the lower leg of the quater where it meets the rocker you have a decent amount of rust right in the seam, and a heavy amount of rust at the rear corner of teh rocker and the lip of the wheel opening facing towards the door side. The wheel opening is a double panel..inner wheel well and outer quater spot welded together. this area is going to a little tough for a do it yourselfer with little experience but if not done right it is going to come back for sure. just try and lay out the best plan you can, do some research on doing body work and only do what you feel comfortable with doing.
 
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MustangMobster

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Jan 13, 2011
#40
  • Jan 13, 2011
  • #40
Well I'm pretty comfortable doing it just to learn, but I can already tell I'm going to bite off more than I can chew. Once I strip it and sand it down how much would getting those nasty areas sand blasted cost on average?
 
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