My Head and Intake Swap Progress/?'s

M

Makdaddymac

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May 28, 2005

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orlando

Jun 11, 2008

#1

• Jun 11, 2008

• #1

GOT TO BOTTOM OF THREAD

 

795.0pacecar

lover of pudgy polygamists

Jul 11, 2003

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Senoia, GA

Jun 11, 2008

#2

• Jun 11, 2008

• #2

The bottom nut part of the red and yellow circled part swivels. Unscrew it there, I think its a 1" or a 1 1/16"

I cant really tell whats being circled in the red circle. If its the braket that holds the heater tube down, then just unbolt it. I think its a 12 or a 13mm

 

M

Makdaddymac

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May 28, 2005

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orlando

Jun 12, 2008

#3

• Jun 12, 2008

• #3

Everything is off old e7's and lower intkae, im prepping the valve covers for ford blue paint..........
painting some brackets, t-stat housing. and just waiting for my exploder intake via Mail.....

1)i think i'm going to double stack my valve cover gasket, and just wanted to know what it would take. do i just want to use a bottle of super glue per side of valve cover gasket , or should i use something else. like rtv??? and do i still have to remove the baffle when double stacking?

2) how much are a set of used e7's, lower and upper intake worth so i can post them for sale? im not interested in makig money just getting rid of them without just handing them over for FREE...............

 

795.0pacecar

lover of pudgy polygamists

Jul 11, 2003

480

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Senoia, GA

Jun 12, 2008

#4

• Jun 12, 2008

• #4

Take off the baffle and see if they clear with one gasket before double stacking them. Do not use super glue, use RTV.

You would probably make more money recycling the old upper than lower intake than you would selling it.

 

M

Makdaddymac

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May 28, 2005

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orlando

Jun 12, 2008

#5

• Jun 12, 2008

• #5

thanks pacecar for the replies,

yeah i was told to remove the baffle but then someone told me to grind stuff out stuff? did they mean just the baffle cause it looks like there is screws holding it in? there is only one to worry about correct? this might be easier to do, but if i got to sit there and grind out all those column things about 8 in each valve cover....im just gonna double stack with RTV like suggested..

 

MAC'n89Blckstng

Active Member

Jun 11, 2003

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NJ

Jun 12, 2008

#6

• Jun 12, 2008

• #6

Dont double stack the gaskets, they WILL leak. You shouldn't need to raise the valve covers. I have 1.7 roller rockers on my GT40's and I use stock valve covers with one gasket.

 

M

Makdaddymac

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May 28, 2005

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orlando

Jun 12, 2008

#7

• Jun 12, 2008

• #7

did you remove the baffle?

 

M

Makdaddymac

New Member

May 28, 2005

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orlando

Jun 13, 2008

#8

• Jun 13, 2008

• #8

alright some more questions....


1) the book say to retorque after engine is hot.....are they nuts remove the intake and valve cover and everthing else just to retorque them.......

2)valve cover help....... i removed the baffle for the side that has the filler tube, all i did was remove the screws..... but i noticed that will allow oil to squirt up into the hose that goes to the tb.... idont want that, can i just cut the baffle so it flat or am i suppose to grind even more off the valve covers???

 

M

Makdaddymac

New Member

May 28, 2005

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orlando

Jun 14, 2008

#9

• Jun 14, 2008

• #9

any answers, do you guys retorque after is all toghether

 

R

red95gtconvert

New Member

May 29, 2006

382

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Ponca city, OK

Jun 14, 2008

#10

• Jun 14, 2008

• #10

I retorqued my upper and lower intake manifold but not the heads, I used the expensive Felpro head gaskets and ARP head bolts and it was my understanding that a retorque was not required when using those gaskets/bolts. My car is running great with no signs of water in the oil so they must have worked. Good luck on the install.

 

5.0Droptop

...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??

Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here

May 15, 2002

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Indiana

Jun 14, 2008

#11

• Jun 14, 2008

• #11

they are talking about retorqing the lower intake. Just keep going through the torq sequence untill it stays tight and you wont need to retq it.

 

M

Makdaddymac

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May 28, 2005

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orlando

Jun 14, 2008

#12

• Jun 14, 2008

• #12

yeah i did it 3 times, one more than the book suggested,,,,
but what about the valve covers!!????

 

L

lang williams

New Member

Jun 11, 2003

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cleveland, oh

Jun 14, 2008

#13

• Jun 14, 2008

• #13

my first head/intake swap i didn't know to cut the heater hoses off the heater core an ruined a core that was only 2 years old

 

M

Makdaddymac

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May 28, 2005

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orlando

Jun 17, 2008

#14

• Jun 17, 2008

• #14

yeah well im slow and have good old shade tree mechanic uncle and dad for help so i dont break much.....


`i got my lower EXPLODER intake, and trying to figure out how to drill and tap this thing, i might have to take it somewhere cause i don't want to crack the alum..
i found out that the act is 37/64 drill bit with 3/8 tap. but what about the other egr coolant valve thing...is it the same?

 

93 teal terror

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Jul 13, 2001

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Durham N.C.

Jun 18, 2008

#15

• Jun 18, 2008

• #15

When I installed my 1.7 rockers, I just hammered the baffle flat and havn't had any problems

 

M

Makdaddymac

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May 28, 2005

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orlando

Jun 18, 2008

#16

• Jun 18, 2008

• #16

thanks for the reply but i think i got my valve covers squared......

im more worried about where to find the dill and tap for a act into my exploder intake..... and also the egr coolant flow needs to be tapped and i dont know the sizes and i cant find a drill and tap for these things anywhere.. home depot and tractor supply dont got them,,,

 

NIKwoaC

中國製造

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Oct 31, 2006

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Chengdu Province

Jun 18, 2008

#17

• Jun 18, 2008

• #17

Makdaddymac said:

thanks for the reply but i think i got my valve covers squared......

im more worried about where to find the dill and tap for a act into my exploder intake..... and also the egr coolant flow needs to be tapped and i dont know the sizes and i cant find a drill and tap for these things anywhere.. home depot and tractor supply dont got them,,,

Click to expand...

You might be better off having a machine shop drill and tap the lower because the drill bit and tap alone are expensive enough to make buying them less ideal than paying someone to do it.

And what ABOUT the EGR coolant flow? Doesn't it T-off the heater line hose? Where do you need to tap that?

 

M

Makdaddymac

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May 28, 2005

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orlando

Jun 18, 2008

#18

• Jun 18, 2008

• #18

yah, im trying to find a good machine shop to drill and tap, but they tell me they are just production or etc etc.....so im stuck for right now...one guy said it would be cheaper for me to buy the part if i have drills which i do......

come on explorer intake stangers come to the rescue,,,

is this the needed part, figure the tap is more important than the drill bit, which we have some that can get the job done but the damn tap is holding this job from being done today or tommorow....!!!!!!
http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?idproduct=8601

i

 

M

Makdaddymac

New Member

May 28, 2005

323

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orlando

Jun 18, 2008

#19

• Jun 18, 2008

• #19

OK JOB IS DONE well at least the drill and tap...
NAPA had the 3/8 NPT tap, and a friend had a 37/64 bit or something similar which worked.

 

cenok is family

15 Year Member

Jun 25, 2003

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Norman, Ok

Jun 18, 2008

#20

• Jun 18, 2008

• #20

what'd you decide on with the valve covers? glad to see everythings moving along some-what steadily.