MY IDLE IS DRIVING ME F****N CRAZY!!!

When I start it, my idle will go up and down and almost die. I have to drive the car for a while so it won't die. When I put it in N, the rpms drops and the car dies for a split second and then it starts by itself. WTF!? I really have no idea WTF is wrong. I already cleaned out the MAF, IAC(3 weeks old), I replaced the ACT with a resistor and vice versa. What else can be the problem. I hope that my A9L swap will fix this problem!!!:bang:
 
I use to have the same problem. Once I would drive around for awhile the car would go into closed loop and it would be fine. Its an open loop problem, your car is going rich, lean, rich, lean after you start it up. I changed my open loop fuel tables with my Tweecer and everything was fine.

I take it your not running a chip or anything with that E cam?
 
have you ever checked the duty cycle of your iac....i believ it should be like 25-35% at idle....I had this problem when I installed a throttle body, and the screw on the throttle body that is next to the iac was closing due to vibration, and it was essentially making it so it wouldn't work....worth a try:shrug:
 
my idle has been doing something similar lately, it will jump up and down but it will only die occasionally...also, sometimes when i start it up it will jump up like normal and just die. a month ago i cleaned the MAF and put new O2 sensors in
 
Did you solve anything maximos?

Mystic, how do I check my IAC? I'm pretty sure my problem is a damn sensor. I disconnect my battery and after I connect it, it'll run fine for a few minutes, and like it picks up a bad readin and it starts again. When I'm driving normal, it feels like the car drags for a second and then it "frees" up. It does it a lot. Sounds like that open/close loop problem like Chad said. I just swapped out to an a9l computer but it still does it. It has to be a damn sensor. I'm going to start another thread about my swap.
 
95Vert said:
it is connected. I don't know if I should relocate it to runner #5 on the intake like the 87-93 stangs.

IMHO, it would make more sense since :D you did the pcm retro fit.

IIRC, you need a specific fox act and if that is so ......

You would not wanna relocate your original act.

btw ... Don 95Vert has posted a good bit of info about the subject.

Grady
 
Another vantage point is that when fox guys use the Explorer intake [on their foxes], it seems to me that they relo' the ACT to the airbox (kinda like what we have stock). The fox ACT function aint all whiney like the 94-95 function is.

I have NO personal experience with that - just my recollection of what the fox guys have posted.
 
I have the 93 TB conversion and my TB doesn't have that screw to open my idle.

Grady, where's Don's posted information?

Hissin, so your saying that since I have the ex. intake and a9l, i can get by by leaving the act in the induction tube? Do I need the 93 ACT as well?

I troubleshot(sp?) my problems yesterday. I swapped out 3 MAF, left it unplugged, replaced the ACT with the resistor, and even left nothing in the ACT plug. Doing all of these things, it still did the bogging thing. It's pretty bad. It feels like you're downshifting, it'll throw your head forward a bit, then it'll move and keep doing this. I don't think it's my MAF. It may be my ACT, since it acted the same w/or w/o it unplugged.