MY NEW 03' DYNOED STOCK 362HP

IMPORTSMOKER · May 10, 2006

I GOT IT DYNOED AFTER OWNING IT FOR ONLY A FEW WEEKS...STONE - BONE STOCK 362HP AND 362 TQ @ 6000 RPM...GOOD A/F, DOES THIS SOUND PRETTY AVERAGE FOR STOCK 03-04 COBRAS?? I JUST PUT ON A MAC STRAIGHT SHOT INTAKE AND THAT MADE A REAL DIFFERENCE IN FEEL OF POWER ON THE STREET...AND SUPERCHARGER SOUNDS LOUDER NOW...NEXT WEEK IM DOING A BASSANI X-PIPE WITH REMOVABLE CATS (FOR THAT OFFROAD PIPE SOUND) AND THE 3" MAC CATBACK WITH 3.5" TIPS....MIGHT GO AHEAD AND DO THE PULLEY AND THE TUNER WHILE IM AT IT....WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK????

Uncle Meat · May 10, 2006

IMPORTSMOKER said:
I GOT IT DYNOED AFTER OWNING IT FOR ONLY A FEW WEEKS...STONE - BONE STOCK 362HP AND 362 TQ @ 6000 RPM...GOOD A/F, DOES THIS SOUND PRETTY AVERAGE FOR STOCK 03-04 COBRAS?? I JUST PUT ON A MAC STRAIGHT SHOT INTAKE AND THAT MADE A REAL DIFFERENCE IN FEEL OF POWER ON THE STREET...AND SUPERCHARGER SOUNDS LOUDER NOW...NEXT WEEK IM DOING A BASSANI X-PIPE WITH REMOVABLE CATS (FOR THAT OFFROAD PIPE SOUND) AND THE 3" MAC CATBACK WITH 3.5" TIPS....MIGHT GO AHEAD AND DO THE PULLEY AND THE TUNER WHILE IM AT IT....WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK????

First off... TURN YOUR CAPS LOCK OFF PLEASE!!

Now that we have that out of the way lets talk about your numbers... They are average with what the rest of us put down stock. Do you know if those numbers are SAE or STD? Was this a dynojet or a different type of dyno?
As for the MAC Straight Shot intake... you should have done some research on the forums before buying it. It's not very well liked by the 03/04 community because it makes the car hard to tune. By adding it you are artificially leaning out your A/F ratio which gives you more power. The MAC Straight Shot has a larger MAF housing than stock, yet retains the stock electronics. Your MAC SS is fooling the ECM and is introducing more air than actually being reported by the sampling tube due to the larger diameter. My recommendation? Get rid of that MAC garbage and buy a standard CAI/RAI from JLT or K&N. Then get your car tuned properly. You'll get the same gains in power, but you won't have to rely on cheating the ECM to do it which is much safer in the long run.

Adding the Bassani O/R X and the MAC cat back will really wake your car up and it will be loud. Problem is with your MAC Straight Shot you're already fooling the ECM into thinking the car is running richer than actual. Now you add these components (which naturally lean out the A/F ratio) and you're adding to the problem. Throw a pulley on the car and try to run a standard "Performance" tune from the hand held programmer and watch your motor possibly burn up!!!!

Get rid of the MAC Straight Shot as stated before, then all those other mods you want can fall into place correctly. MAC STRAIGHT SHOT SUCKS DONKEY BALLS and every respectable 03/04 Cobra tuner will tell you this!!!

My 2 cents.

U.M.

IMPORTSMOKER · May 10, 2006

Thanks for the info...but im confused on what your saying about the mac s.s. all that I installed was basically an air filter and a chrome heat shield. The kit had nothing to do with the mass air sensor or mass air housing, the componants that I installed are before the maf. this setup dosent go all the way to the throttle body. Perhaps im confusing the name of this mac kit, with another kit because like i said all it is, is basically an open elemt air filter and a heat shield, so i dont see how that would effect or fool the maf in an way....i mean the k&n filter cant be that much diferent from the mac to cause tuning issues...thanks for the input

Uncle Meat · May 10, 2006

My bad... I thought you bought the MAC Straight Shot setup for the 03/04 Cobra which includes a new larger MAF housing!!!!

Ref: http://www.texashotrods.com/storefr...tail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=70952&c=49715&i=17880276

If all you got was the filter and heat shield then you're good to go!

U.M.

IMPORTSMOKER · May 10, 2006

yea...the one I got has all of those componants except the maf.....what would be a recommended maf to use for my setup??

Dan_Soprano · May 10, 2006

IMPORTSMOKER said:
yea...the one I got has all of those componants except the maf.....what would be a recommended maf to use for my setup??

you'll be fine with the stocker till you start knocking on the 490-500rwhp.

Uncle Meat · May 11, 2006

Dan_Soprano said:
you'll be fine with the stocker till you start knocking on the 490-500rwhp.

I concur. Then when and if you do reach that point where the stock MAF can no longer support the power you're making you'll want to look at getting something like a SCT BA-2800. The MAF's that are larger than stock, but still utilize your stock sampling tube & electronics are not the best way to go.

U.M.

03mustangcobra · May 11, 2006

Might as well go for the pulley and the tune, otherwise you'll be tuning it now for the CAI and the exhaust, and again when you do the pulley.

TheDukeOfEarl · May 11, 2006

Uncle Meat said:
I concur. Then when and if you do reach that point where the stock MAF can no longer support the power you're making you'll want to look at getting something like a SCT BA-2800. The MAF's that are larger than stock, but still utilize your stock sampling tube & electronics are not the best way to go.

U.M.

You can also use the billet flow MAF extender. It allows up to 800 HP before you output 5 volts. It uses your stock MAF. At $100.00 its cheap.

Dan_Soprano · May 11, 2006

Uncle Meat said:
I concur. Then when and if you do reach that point where the stock MAF can no longer support the power you're making you'll want to look at getting something like a SCT BA-2800. The MAF's that are larger than stock, but still utilize your stock sampling tube & electronics are not the best way to go.

U.M.

the 2800 is a bit overkill. the 2400 is good up to 800 hp. I have heard that the 2800's output isn't as "sharp" as the 2400's, hence possible causing drivability problems.

281pony · May 11, 2006

just chiming in with my 2 cents.

my maf is hitting 4.90 volts i believe, or 4.8x at 6200 and im making the numbers in my sig or slightly higher now.

i also ditched my jlt rai kit, for a k&n fipk kit. much happier with the swap. ill leave it at that.

Dan_Soprano · May 12, 2006

281pony said:
just chiming in with my 2 cents.

my maf is hitting 4.90 volts i believe, or 4.8x at 6200 and im making the numbers in my sig or slightly higher now.

i also ditched my jlt rai kit, for a k&n fipk kit. much happier with the swap. ill leave it at that.

you should have kept the whipple!

Uncle Meat · May 12, 2006

Dan_Soprano said:
you should have kept the whipple!

Huh?

U.M.

IMPORTSMOKER · May 12, 2006

just curious...when you guys are putting on the 2.9 and 2.8 pulleys...what are using to tune it? i was told that the predator diablo hand held is "pre tuned" for the 2.8 pulley...is this true? i do understand that not all cars are the same and i will have to get it back on a dyno to fine tune the a/f...but will the diablosport give me a good all around safe tune for temporary usage untill i get back to the dyno?? also...do i need a special tool to remove the pulley?? thanks

Uncle Meat · May 12, 2006

IMPORTSMOKER said:
just curious...when you guys are putting on the 2.9 and 2.8 pulleys...what are using to tune it? i was told that the predator diablo hand held is "pre tuned" for the 2.8 pulley...is this true? i do understand that not all cars are the same and i will have to get it back on a dyno to fine tune the a/f...but will the diablosport give me a good all around safe tune for temporary usage untill i get back to the dyno?? also...do i need a special tool to remove the pulley?? thanks

The pre-programmed pulley tune that comes with the Predator is good enough to get your car to the dyno. I WOULD NOT go WOT with that tune until you have it checked first. You're just asking for trouble... and yes, you need a special and quite expensive little tool to properly remove and replace the supercharger pulley. A standard pulley removal tool won't work.

U.M.

Friedchicken · May 24, 2006

I would say the best advice at this point is to dig around for a SVT club/enthusiasts in your area to give you the benifit of their obsession (er.. I mean knowledge).

The easy part is to throw on a CAI and catback system and enjoy the extra 40 horsies. However, the simplicity ends there and the higher you go, the more systems you need to dig into and upgrade.

Once you hit the pulley/port stage, sky is the limit and it's easy to make the wrong choices. The common threshold seems to be the 500 rwhp mark before you need serious fuel/cooling upgrades and 600rwhp for driveline upgrades.

Set a realistic target for yourself and stick to it. It's so easy to go overboard and end up redoing steps. Also, balance your mods out. In the end, you want your car to be a pleasure to drive to the movies as it is on the track, so don't compromise safety or comfort for an extra couple horses.

03mustangcobra · May 24, 2006

Get it professionally tuned. None of the off the shelf tunes can ensure the fuel/air is correct as each car is different. I have put very little money in to my car and have power numbers that are up there with people who have spent a few thousand more, but tried to save on the tune. The story you don't hear is the from the guys who used the out of the box tune and then blew the engine -- detonation is the enemy, and each car is a little different.

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