My steering is as loose as a $5 hooker

Lyonmt

Member
Nov 17, 2004
110
7
18
Tampa, FL
What do you think is the largest contributor to this?

Ball joints? tie rod ends? end links? steering rack?

This is my beater/commuter car, so i am not going to dump a lot of money into it and restore the front end. What parts do think I should replace that will give me the best bang for my buck as far as tightening up the steering? The darn thing wanders all over the place and it is becoming a safety concern.
 
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Yes, I am talking about a fox body (1988 to be specific) Mustang.

The car wanders from side to side, so I am constantly making corrections at the steering wheel. When I make corrections, it responds fairly quickly.

I didn't even think about that flexible coupling! I may have a spare. Thanks. I'll check into that.

Anyone else?
 
This is what you should do. Jack the front of the car up...one side at a time. Take a pry bar and put it under the tire. Lift up on the pry bar...see if the tires moves noticeably in the up/down direction. This tests the condition of the ball joints. You can also do this with your hands placed on the top and bottom of the tire...and try to move it in/out (Up/down). If there is ANY movement in the ball joint then it needs to be replaced. If the boot is torn or leaking...replace the ball joint. They are pretty cheap.

Next put your hands on either side of the tire (left/right) and wiggle it in that direction. Mustangs arent really known for inner tie rod failures...but the outers will go occasionally. This will test for that. If there is any significant play in this direction...take one of your hands and reach back there and grab the Outer tie rod. Wiggle the tire again...or have someone do it for you. You should be able to feel the movement in the outer rod if thats the problem. If it clicks or makes noise...replace them. Both sides. They are cheap too. for about 80-90 bucks you could replace both ball joints and both out tie rods and this should really help your loose steering problems.

Thats good advice to check the steering shaft flex coupler.
 
I would check the rag joint first, then look for worn tie rods, inner and outer, then see if the rack has internal wear or play.

If it wanders but you don't have slack or gross looseness in the steering, check the alignment.
 
There's really no way to tell without inspecting everything. It could be anything. In my case basically everything in my front end was shot including the rack itself, the rag joint, and the front control arm bushings.

I'd have a competent front end shop check the alignment before doing any work. Tell them the specific issues you're having, then if the alignment checks out okay, they can look over the front end and get an idea of what parts need replacing.

This is just an guess, but to me, a wander while still having fairly tight steering could indicate worn out control arm bushings. They carry a lot of load on them, and when they get mushy they can't hold the suspension in correct alignment as you drive down the road.
 
I vote for the steering shaft. The fox steering shafts are old, and the rubber deteriorates. They are a real POS. Mine is shot, so I am gonna replace it this summer of 08. My car drives fine, but when I took it off to check it, it was very sloppy.
 
As far as i knew, there was no rag joint replacement available, only aftermarket shafts.

If you are having an issue with the car following ruts in the road, it very well may be an alignment, maximum positive caster during an alignment does wonders for highway driving.
I know you don't want to spend alot of money, but if all the parts are original, you may just want to replace everything at once, this way you don't have to keep getting alignments at $60 a pop.
 
Interesting thread, my 1988 (with 17K original miles) does this too. I was under the car and amazingly all the bushings look fine - no cracks, tears, etc. My car has C springs and was put away in 1992 and must have settled on the springs because it was a real bitch on the highway. I had it aligned and it is much better but tends to walk around needing regular correction - more on some roads than others. I had it aligned to the specs recommended by Maximum Motorsports (I now have their CC plates), who also said I didn't need a bump steer kit if I didn't change the K-Member.

Does this still sound like tie rod ends?