Mysterious problem, won't start....

ebelizard · Apr 13, 2010

So I was driving the car the other day, and I was at a stop light. When the light turned green, I hit the gas, and the car immediately shut down and would not turn over anymore....

plugs are new (replaced a month ago), distributor cap seems fine as well as the rotor. The car is getting fuel, and air, so I'm thinking the issue could be spark.

What do you all think?

woodsnake · Apr 13, 2010

I think the wiring from the instrument panel to the distributor is old and cracked, and when you gave it some gas, it grounded out on the block.
Do you have a test light or a meter? Do you know how to perform a voltage drop test?

http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

D.Hearne · Apr 13, 2010

If it just died all the sudden and would not crank, I'd say you lost power between the battery and the ignition switch. Could be a shorted battery (internally) but it's more likely a wiring problem with 40 year old wires, anything's possible

tx65coupe · Apr 14, 2010

I think it is electrical related too.

ebelizard · Apr 14, 2010

Thanks for your help guys. I have a brand new Painless wiring harness I'm about to drop in the car. After I do that I'll go from there.

Wicked65 · Apr 14, 2010

Starter Solenoid?

ebelizard · Apr 15, 2010

Wicked65 said:
Starter Solenoid?

Is there a way I can test to see if thats the problem? I've located it under the hood, and there are ALOT of wires attached to it (one I know is for the sound system, dont know if that was wired correctly)

Hack · Apr 15, 2010

Take a pair of pliers and touch one point to the terminal where the battery lead is connected. Touch the other point to the terminal where the starter is connected. These are the two terminals with larger diameter wires, in case you weren't sure. If you have the key switched on and everything else is good, the starter should turn and start the car.

I had a solenoid go out on my '70. I felt like a genius when I jumped out, popped the hood, started the car and drove to the parts store. It's fun when a car's so simple that you can make it work in 5 seconds with a pair of pliers.

Edit: the other thing to check is the ground cable/connection. That's a really common problem that can stop you.

ebelizard · Apr 29, 2010

Im thinking because the starter is turning that the solenoid isnt bad... or could I just be mistaken?

Pulled the plugs, they seem fine. Not sure what else the problems could be. Rotor in the distributor is fine, would replacing the wires help? Im not sure how old they are...but they dont seem too bad. Then again, its hard to tell whats INSIDE the wires that matters.

Distributor is also new.

Rusty67 · Apr 29, 2010

Test for spark.

Pull a plug wire and see if you can get it to arc to a screw driver. If you can't get it to arc then you may have a bad coil. If it doesn't spark at the plug then see if it sparks at the coil by disconnecting the plug wire that goes from the coil to the distributor. Do not disconnect the coil side, disconnect the distributor side. You can fry your coil if it sparks out with nothing attached because it will tend to ground to itself. Do the same arc test with the screw driver to see if the coil is firing.

Use a thicker/larger screw driver.

ebelizard · Apr 29, 2010

Just checked both the wire to the plug connection (no arc/spark) and the coil to the distributor (no arc/no spark). I'm going to replace the ignition coil right now, and hope that solves the problem.

ebelizard · Apr 29, 2010

Well replaced the ignition coil with a MSD blaster 2, hooked everything up the same. Still will crank but wont fire up. Im starting to think that its a compression problem, would this be the next step?

And if so, is it likely it could just drop compression like that and randomly shut down at a stop light when I hit the gas?

woodsnake · Apr 29, 2010

I find it highly unlikely that you lost all compression at that one intersection.
Before you just throw parts at it, get a cheap meter, and perform a voltage drop test. Start at the battery, and go thru the starting system. Battery terminals to post. Both sides of the solenoid, down to the starter.
Have you performed the "wiggle test" on any of the wires under the hood? From the ignition inside the car, to the coil?
Is the battery good? It could be that your alternator crapped out, and have a dead battery.

Tim65GT · Apr 29, 2010

Got voltage at the + side of the coil? Are the points opening and closing?

ebelizard · Apr 29, 2010

I think ive determined the problem to be the ignition module, there was a GP sorensen in there, and from what I've read their crap.

I've been reading alot about puting a GM 4-pin HEI module in there instead. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Rusty67 · Apr 30, 2010

From all of the stuff I've read, a Chrystler ignition box with a Duraspark distributor is one of the best cost effective and reliable solutions.

You really should get a digital multimeter for troubleshooting.

I personally have an MSD Digital 6 and have never had a bit of trouble with it.

D.Hearne · Apr 30, 2010

ebelizard said:
Well replaced the ignition coil with a MSD blaster 2, hooked everything up the same. Still will crank but wont fire up. Im starting to think that its a compression problem, would this be the next step?

And if so, is it likely it could just drop compression like that and randomly shut down at a stop light when I hit the gas?

You tested for spark, found no spark, now you think it's a compression problem ?

horseballz · Apr 30, 2010

ebelizard,
Get a multi meter (or at least a non powered test light) and LEARN HOW TO USE IT! Very easy/simple, we'll gladly help/guide you. I don't mean to be a "richard head" but if you're too scared, lazy or stubborn to do this, then you have no business touching ANY wiring and should pay someone who has the knowledge. Just throwing parts at an electrical problem can cost way more than having someone else find and fix a likely simple problem. Once you learn the basics of how to test wiring/electrical, it will really open your eyes and you will use the meter/test light a lot. One word of advice on a multi-meter purchase: get one with an automatic shut off feature, or you will be putting new batteries in it every time you go to use it. I suspect one of four problems:
>Faulty power supply to the ignition switch
>>Bad ignition switch
>>>Bad/broken wire from ignition switch to coil
>>>>Pooched ignition module
Gene

woodsnake · Apr 30, 2010

I think putting GM HEI anything on any Ford product is GAY. Butt pumping peter puffing homo gay.

If you want to upgrade your ignition system, go the Duraspark distributor MSD 6A or 6AL route.

ebelizard · Apr 30, 2010

D.Hearne said:
You tested for spark, found no spark, now you think it's a compression problem ?

Forgive me.

Well I'm now replacing the wiring harness (came with the vehicle, and the upgrade will be nice). I am consistently learning about the engine electrical, and when I go to wire the ignition I will make sure I study the diagrams. I do have a digital voltmeter, and know how, and will use it. Ill post something within the next few weeks regarding my progress, and let you all know.

One quick question, would a points distributor, MSD blaster 2, and MSD 5520 work?

Mysterious problem, won't start....

ebelizard

New Member

woodsnake

D.Hearne

New Member

tx65coupe

Active Member

ebelizard

New Member

Wicked65

Member

ebelizard

New Member

Hack

ebelizard

New Member

Rusty67

ebelizard

New Member

ebelizard

New Member

woodsnake

Tim65GT

Active Member

ebelizard

New Member

Rusty67

D.Hearne

New Member

horseballz

woodsnake

ebelizard

New Member

Similar threads

Mysterious problem, won't start....

New Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency