N2o

You don't have forged pistons.

Off the top of my head..............

Start with a 50 pill. Go at least one step colder in Motorcraft plugs= 24's and read the plugs after you spray the first few times. Pull your timing back 2 degrees to 8 or get a timing control knob for your MSD that you can dial the timing back.. Do not hit the button in 1st gear. Make sure you purge the line everytime before spraying. If you hear any pinging back off the throttle. Do NOT spray with the motor off. Make sure the bottle has adequate pressure. Make sure the nitrous and fuel jets are spraying towards the motor. Make sure the WOT switch works. Do not move up in pills until you are comfortable with the 50. On a stock motor I would not go past 100 hp. Use 93 or the highest octane you can find.

I'm sure some others will add theiir tips.

I have no expierience with that particular kit but have run NOS & Zex systems. Is that a wet shot system or dry kit? Is it a plate system between the intakes or a dual nozzle spray system before the throttle body? Nozzle systems can let to a puddling problem. What fuel pump are you running? The stock one needs to be upgraded to at least a 190lph and I prefer a 255. If running the 150 jets drop 2 heat ranges on your plugs. Make sure you run at least 93 octane fuel. NO 87 octane! Make sure you don't run up to the rev limiter because you're asking for a possible nitrous explosion. If stock cam etc shift around 52-5500. As far as timing goes I've run 12* on a 100 shot but I recommend keeping it at 10*(factory setting). With a 150 shot I'd run 10* and possibly take out 1-2* to be save.

Also I eventually ran up to a 175 shot on a factory motor. But not recommended. Factory block can take a 150 hit without a problem if you keep the tune correct. Always error on the rich side with your fuel jets.

A5literMan said:

Also I eventually ran up to a 175 shot on a factory motor. But not recommended. Factory block can take a 150 hit without a problem if you keep the tune correct.

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pete_05_gt said:

89 and 90 GT's came with forged pistons, they switched to hyper's in 91. The system is wet nozzle system. I will for sure start with the 50 hp jet and try to dial it in first before going up. Thank you for the plug recommendation. Will not activating the system until 3500-4000 rpm's and shutting it off at 5200-5500 rpm's help prevent the puddling?

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set your window switch to 56-5800 rpm and shift at the 52-5500 range. As long as their is a safe zone before the stock 6200 rev limiter you'll be fine. If the revlimiter goes off while still flowing nitrous you can have a improper ignition event that can destroy Pistons/plugs/etc. Keep the nitrous on through your powerband but keep it safely under that point. The problem with puddling usually only happens when you use a lot of juice. Running the fuel/nitrous mixture through an intake that is only designed to move air is the problem. Especially on the dog leg intake runners. I'm a fan of the dry kits that just use the injecters to supply the fuel. But that's not what we are talking about. Lol. Have the kit activate at wot with the switch range from 3-5800 would/should be save. I assume that system has instructions on jetting? 50 hp shot will hardly be noticeable FYI. Different story when you go up to 100+

What's the rest of your cars condition? Suspension/tires/etc etc. With the instant on/off nature of these systems I don't recommend using it on the street especially with a non drag tire. Like every poweradder the tune is important for safety and performance.

pete_05_gt said:

Thank you A5liter. The car is all stock with the noted mods. Suspension is the next thing going in , all UPR products thank you Sharad. Like I said I just want to be able to have alittle fun while the race motor is being built and who knows after this maybe I'll become a nitrous guy instead of going SC. I just want to do it safely as I would like to keep the stock motor intact lol. By the way you make me want to go straight to the 100 jet lmao

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Lol I went straight to the 125 and that was on my daily driver at the time! Seriously though these kits are actually designed on the save side. Nitrous usually only gets dangerous when we start modifying the parameters(more timing or bigger nitrous jets etc). Just like adding boost with a blower it gets addicting and/or destructive. Keep it simple and tuned properly and you'll be fine. Good luck and post your results!

mikestang63 said:

You don't have forged pistons.

Off the top of my head..............

Start with a 50 pill. Go at least one step colder in Motorcraft plugs= 24's and read the plugs after you spray the first few times. Pull your timing back 2 degrees to 8 or get a timing control knob for your MSD that you can dial the timing back.. Do not hit the button in 1st gear. Make sure you purge the line everytime before spraying. If you hear any pinging back off the throttle. Do NOT spray with the motor off. Make sure the bottle has adequate pressure. Make sure the nitrous and fuel jets are spraying towards the motor. Make sure the WOT switch works. Do not move up in pills until you are comfortable with the 50. On a stock motor I would not go past 100 hp. Use 93 or the highest octane you can find.

I'm sure some others will add theiir tips.

Click to expand...

all excellent advice, with one change. instead of not spraying in first gear, my advice is to not spray below 2500-3000 rpm. and as noted later on, tune you motor on the rich side to prevent detonation.

and i cant stress again, if you hear pinging, STOP SPRAYING. when a nitrous motor detonates, you can punch a hole in a piston with laser beam efficiency.

also, before you install the nitrous system, make absolutely sure your intake valves are sealing properly. i have seen nitrous backfires pop a carb off it studs. granted they were running much more than a mere 150 shot, more like a 400 shot, but a nitrous backfire can be very bad either way.