NA power numbers?

What are your goals? Street power? Drag power? Corner carving? What route you should take depends on your goals.

Intake and tune will run about $600 and give you around 30rwhp.
Longtube headers will run you $800-$1500 + install and give you around 25rwhp.
A safe shot of nitrous will give you about 50rwhp or so for around $1000 with all the goodies.
Otherwise you'd need heads and cams to get any more real horsepower and stay NA. Heads and cams, depending on the setup you chose will give you 30-55hp. Of course, there's always a stroker kit, too.

Then you have mods that help you free up horsepower and plant it, such as aluminum driveshaft, rear end gears, underdrive pullies, stiffer control arms, etc...

I'm running 316 rwhp / 327 rwtq with a few bolt ons. I'm running a VMP Tuning E85 tune, C&L Racer with a 88mm maf tube, Magnaflow Magnapacks welded in as a mid muffler system. UDPs and CMCV delete plates. I'm also running pretty heavy 20" wheels. This is on my E-85 tune though. Otherwise with 93 octane, I'm making 302 rwhp and like 316 rwtq.

What are your goals as far as power? I was planning on making my car N/A as well. I was going to do nitrous and cams as well as the mods that I've got to make around 400 rwhp. I decided against it. I'm just going to just drop the coin on a Saleen or Whipple to make even more power, all of the time, and a lot easier.

400HP is pretty much not happening without a stroker kit, heads, and cams. Maybe with the right heads and cams you can do it without the stroker kit, but it's doubtful. Honestly, the best bet is to get the basic bolt-ons and a 75 shot of nitrous with remote bottle opener, window switch, and warmer.

Than again if you're going to do all of that why not just go F/I?

That depends if you mean 400 rear wheel horsepower or just plain 400 engine horsepower. With all the bolt ons (headers, UDPs, delete plates, CAI/tune, etc.) and cams people easily make 350+ at the wheels, which is well over 400 crankshaft horsepower.

Comp "NSR" cams and the FRPP (about $600-800) "NSR"cams seem to be popular choices now as neither require valve spring replacement and can net upwards of 20+ RWHP without touching the stock heads. More aggressive cams, new valve springs and worked heads can net upwards of 50-70 RWHP depending on cam and head work. As mentioned before, depending on what your goal is, changing various "bolt on" parts will make a huge difference with just the stock power output. Lighter wheels, lighter aluminum one piece driveshaft, under drive pullies, delete plates all will allow you to gain back what the stock parts rob

Just curious,

I've heard mixed replies on the CMCV plates. Some people swear they boost output, some people say they don't do jack ***** unless you run boost. Just curious if anyone has any actual dyno proof showing they DO boost power. Also, just curious, do the "economy" plates make less power than the more expensive ones? Referring to the Steeda plates, ofcourse.

Want dyno sheets? I've got dyno sheets. Come get your dyno sheets !!

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The difference between the two are the UDPs and CMCVs. We all know that UDPs won't make ~15 rwhp so figure ~7 rwhp for the UDPs and ~7 rwhp for the CMCVs. No part throttle power loss, either. No mileage loss, either.

I take it you have the billet plates, not the cheaper cast ones?

Oops. I forgot to touch on that. I've got the economy plates. There is no reason to get the billet ones unless you are made of money. I have NEVER seen any gains for them but as word goes they don't put out but another .5 rwhp. So big deal, not worth the extra money.

There is 2 N/A 4.6L non-stroker 3V Mustangs over 400 RWHP. Both cars are running 11.1 Compression ratio engines with BBR heads and BBR cams. They have Long-tube headers, x-pipe and stinger mufflers. The cars also have pretty much every bolt on as well( CAI, UDPs and CMCV Deletes ). One of them made 411 RWHP, the other was 403. Both of these cars are making better power than the Streetable 401 RWHP JDM 4.9L Stroker N/A car that is being referenced as what it takes to make 400 RWHP.

There is a car from SuttonHP that is very close to 400 RWHP with the stock Longblock. If it got a new 4.6 with the compression ratio of 11:1, it to would be over the 400 RWHP N/A.

IMO, Strokers are not what it takes. There is a lot them out there that are making similar power as similared modded 4.6L cars. I haven't really seen a N/A stroker with a huge power advantage over a stock displaced 4.6L. If Strokers were a great option, JDM's streetable 401 RWHP stroker should be leading the pack, not trailing like it is.

I know JDM's race car has a 3V Stroker in it and it is currently the fastest N/A 3V car. Their race car is also a different car then the Stroker being referenced. I haven't heard how that streetable Stroker car has done in the 1/4 or the 2 BBR cars.

Personally I haven't decided what I want to do with my 05 Mustang GT. A part of me wants a Turbo kit because I have never had a Turbo charged car. I have played with all 3 types of Superchargers though. Another part of me wants a Big-Bore N/A 3V car.

Nobody has tried to see what just a 5.0L Big-Bore would do N/A with a 3V. That would be right up my alley though as I have a 5.0L BB N/A 2V car. As it stands right now, I am the ONLY streetable N/A 2V over 350 RWHP with an Automatic transmission car on 91 Octane pump fuel and I also did it with an IRS and dare I say it, NPI heads.

Seeing how the BBR cars did, I am pretty positive that an 11:1 compression N/A Big-Bore with ported heads and cams and the supporting mods would around the 440 RWHP N/A with a 5 spd manual car. If I choose to go with another N/A car project, my goal would be 450 RWHP.

If anyone is highly set on going N/A, I'd wait a couple of months. There will be some big improvements in the market as in terms of replacement heads and better cams.

I have a friend with a Saleen 3v with BBR heads, the most aggresive cams from BBR and all normal bolt ons. BBR also fitted the heads with new valve springs with cam phaser lockouts. He just had the engine built (bored .020) with new rods and piston, keeped the stock crank. Upped the compression ratio to 11.1 to 11.5 (am not sure). We took the car to Tony from HP performance, he was a boost addiction in Brunswick, GA. Car made 403 on a Mustang dyno. I will try and get his dyno sheet, for those aggressive cams the torque curve was very nice.

That's great, especially when you consider how much more hp he's really got because of the Mustang Dyno. How does it drive on the street? Any idle problems?

The idle is very rough, but the car sounds so bad ass. The tune is pretty good on driveability considering the setup. I will try and get some pics/videos for you guys. The previous setup was bbr heads and cams with the stock compression ratio and displacement. The car had no off idle power and it was very difficult to drive in town, but after uping the compression ratio and boring the cylinders .020, the driveability and low end power is much better.

Saleen 302 engine = 390HP out of the box. I'm sure with some mod you could nudge the output past the 400HP mark. That's the route I'd like to go but that's going to be really pricey.

For some reason these cars don't seem right unless they have a 302 in it.

vista said:

I would like to make some good street power, I wouldnt mind a stroker kit but I am having a tough time with finding people who have had their motors stroked. I guess Im looking to be at 400 HP.

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Because it costs a lot of money...