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Name my squeak!

  • Thread starter Thread starter BlueOvalStangGT
  • Start date Start date May 27, 2007

BlueOvalStangGT

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Oct 27, 2003
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May 27, 2007
#1
  • May 27, 2007
  • #1
For the past month this has been doing this and its getting really annoying. When I am driving in a straight line or turning right I get this high pitched chirping noise that sounds almost like a bad throw out bearing. It sounds like it squeaks every time the wheel goes around or something....like chirp chirp chirp chirp. If I turn left even for just a little it goes away. I have already taken the say bar, brake caliper, brake pads and more off and lubed them up with high temp grease and it didnt go away.The brake pad has plenty of meat on it still so I dont think its that. Any other ideas?
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
Founding Member
Sep 24, 2002
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Syracuse, NY
May 27, 2007
#2
  • May 27, 2007
  • #2
so it only does it when the car is moving? or also when the car is parked?

if its when its moving maybe a bad wheel bearing?

all the time it could be pump/rack/belt
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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May 27, 2007
#3
  • May 27, 2007
  • #3
Also, does the noise go away if you apply the brakes? A set of bad slide pins can hang the caliper up, which allows a chirp if there is any run out in the rotor.

Good luck.

BTW, the offers you're getting for your wheels are They're good lookin wheels.
 

Jayded

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Sep 9, 2006
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Laurel, MD
May 27, 2007
#4
  • May 27, 2007
  • #4
I'm thinking the bearing.
 

BlueOvalStangGT

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Oct 27, 2003
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#5
  • May 29, 2007
  • #5
It does go away when the brakes are pressed hard enough. What are slide pins? How can I replace these?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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May 29, 2007
#6
  • May 29, 2007
  • #6
If hitting the brakes changes it, inspecting the brakes sounds good.

I'd do a few things. Check rotor run-out. This can create a chirp as well. I'm not sure why I didnt mention it before.

Anyhow, I just swapped the slide pins yesterday. There's a Chinese kit for 8 bucks from Autozone. I wasnt too impressed with the quality of the bushing in the kit though (my OEM bushing looked better so I left it). When you unbolt the caliper (one bolt is a 10 mm head, the other is a large, easy to strip torx bit), you can pull the bolts out. The 10 mm head one comes out by pulling it towards you (the head comes out last - counterintuitive). On the bottom boss, you can pull the bushing out of the rubber boot once the torx bolt is out. The rubber boot grips the bushing via grooves in the bushing (it's kind of a pain to reseat the bushing into the rubber because the rubber boot catches in the leading boot edge).

Anyhow, inspect all the pins and bushings and lube or replace as necessary. A sign of a hanging set of pins is that the outer pad wears more than the inner pad. Remember that the pins come with a sacrificial coating which does eventually wear off.

It should either be rotor-run out, the pins or an actual sticking piston (both pads on this side of the car will be worn more than the pads on the other side. Both pads on the bad side will be worn fairly evenly though).

This will all take a half hour or so to inspect and replace parts and button up.
Good luck.
 

BlueOvalStangGT

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Oct 27, 2003
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May 29, 2007
#7
  • May 29, 2007
  • #7
One last question, what is rotor run out?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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May 30, 2007
#8
  • May 30, 2007
  • #8
BlueOvalStangGT said:
One last question, what is rotor run out?
Click to expand...

You're checking for rotor warpage. In such a case, a warped point, when passing through the pads, will chirp. You can do it properly or just rig a dial indicator up using stuff around the garage. If you have a milk crate, you can use that with a base, etc to get the indicator to the rotor's swept area. Then spin the rotor while watching the dial indicator.
If you had rotors turned, they should have checked them for run out before machining them.

Good luck.
 

BlueOvalStangGT

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Oct 27, 2003
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Aug 31, 2007
#9
  • Aug 31, 2007
  • #9
Bringing this back now that my car is done with paint and I am driving it again,

Hissin, any more info on the part you got from auto zone? I went to discount auto and couldn't find anything like it.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Aug 31, 2007
#10
  • Aug 31, 2007
  • #10
BlueOvalStangGT said:
Hissin, any more info on the part you got from auto zone? I went to discount auto and couldn't find anything like it.
Click to expand...

Kevin, try searching for "Brake caliper bolt" or "Brake caliper pin". On AZ's site, it's part number H15057 and goes for 8 dollars locally here (prices range by region).
 

gcomfx.com

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Aug 31, 2007
#11
  • Aug 31, 2007
  • #11
I vote for wheel bearing. I had one do this. You go long enough, the chirp will turn into a grinding type noise right before it completely falls apart.
 

BlueOvalStangGT

Active Member
Oct 27, 2003
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Tampa Florida....USF!!!
Aug 31, 2007
#12
  • Aug 31, 2007
  • #12
gcomfx.com said:
I vote for wheel bearing. I had one do this. You go long enough, the chirp will turn into a grinding type noise right before it completely falls apart.
Click to expand...

That sounds amazingly fun, but I will have to pass . Where does one buy wheel bearings and hows the install? I guess I should take a look at my Haynes manual....
 

gcomfx.com

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Sep 4, 2007
#13
  • Sep 4, 2007
  • #13
Any parts store will have them. But yes look at your Haynes Manual for installation. It's really not that bad. I learned a valuable less on my g/f Grand Am. When it says to torque the living piss out of them. It really means it. Or you'll eat up a new bearing in no time. Don't ask me how I know.

(My torque wrench didn't go that high).
 
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