Can anyone tell me what this connector goes to in this picture, its the round one with the red top next to the air box.
Name that connector!!
- Thread starter fivemustangs
- Start date
Not that I know of. Perhaps the wiring to that connector has a short. Or the last owner jury-rigged something up rather than properly fix the problem.
lol, ya im going with jury rig. I cant think of much more why there would be power draining from the battery, the alternator is fine I had it tested, I took the harness apart and there was nothing wrong with that, I fixed the splicing the guy did with the A/C connector. All the fuses are in good shape and I replaced all the ones that even looked like there could be something wrong with them. Do you think it could have anything to do with putting in a rear defrost switch? It didnt have one when I got it but I had a spair kicking around and it went right into the harness. If you know of any common power drains let me know so I can check them out. Thanks!
99FiveOh
15 Year Member
95Vert383AOD
15 Year Member
+1....ive had this happen twice to me with 2 different Alt. Sure it charges fine....but when the car is off it will drain the battery.....Disconnect the Alt. before you go to bed (power and other 2 plugs)....when you wake up start your car and see if the battery is drained.
Chris
Ok I will give it a try tonight, so are you saying that even though the alternator came out fine on the test it could still be junk?
99FiveOh
15 Year Member
Yes! When diodes short out they can create a really faint bridge for the power to ground out. It's not enough to melt any wires or anything, but it'll drain your battery. Recently I had this problem and when I pulled the alternator apart there were a few liquified diodes! After I installed some new parts it never drained the battery again.
Ok guys, I need some more anwsers, I went and bought a new alternator today and also a new battery and put them both on the car, then when I started the car and put the voltage tester on the alternator I still got the same reading, about 11.50 So I took it to advanced auto and had them test the alternator and also brought my voltage meter with me to double check and it came up with about 14.50 when they had it on the machine. So my question is should I be reciving 14ish if the volt meter is right on the black and orange wire nut on the back on the alternator? or if something within the car was draining it would it read the 11.50ish? also want to know what the A S I on the back connector stands for, Ignition Signal and something else? also how is the alternator grounded out? I have painted my alternator bracket could that be making for a bad ground?
Thanks! :SNSign:
Thanks! :SNSign:
A search will reveal a lot of info, as I know I have posted a lot of info about the alternator circuits.
Clean up the alternator bracket. The alt achieves ground through its mounting bracket. For a quick test, find shiny metal on the alt body and clip a jumper cable to it. Then connect the other end of the cable to your negative battery terminal. If your alt charges, clean the paint off the spots where the alt mounts to the bracket (and where the bracket mounts to the engine, if needed).
Quickly:
A: The sense circuit. It reads battery voltage.
S: stator circuit. It should float about 1/2 battery voltage while the car is on.
I: The switch circuit. It will read some voltage (1-12V) with the car on. If your battery light illuminates when you turn the key on, this circuit should be ok.
You should indeed see about 14.5V at the stud on the back of the alternator. If you dont, check the fusible links for the alternator. They're in the power cable at about the side of the power steering pump.
Be sure the alternator fuse in the underhood fusebox didnt blow.
I have been searching a lot tonight and found a good amount of threads with some good info on them. But I also want to know why the alternator is just sending out 11.50 volts while running, right off the back of the alternator black/orange wire nut before the fuseible link? is that the voltage when the ignition wire is not working and telling the alternator to not charge? also my alternator light does not come on when the key is turned on, but I tested the bulb and it is still good, so do you think it could be the red/green wire? I got to test all these things tomorrow but just want a little more input so I know what to test first (besides the grounding) is there something else besides just wire between the alternator and the "AMP" light that would blow or break? and one last question what does the yellow/white and the short white wire do on the D harness?
Thanks!!!!
Thanks!!!!
You should find your issue in the regulator wiring or the lack of ground pathway.
The battery light not illuminating though the bulb is good very well could be your issue. If there's no voltage in that circuit, the alternator doesnt know you want it to turn on.
Did you confirm voltage into the light when you tested the bulb?
White/yellow is the sense circuit.
The short blk/white wire is the stator loop. It's labeled S on your regulator. The wire loops from the S terminal to the long port on the side of the alternator.
99FiveOh
15 Year Member
I figured it out today, I tryed the ground and still nothing, so I turned the key to the on position and tryed the red/green wire and there was no voltage, So I spliced into the wire and hooked it to the battery for testing and BAM there was 14.7 volts. So not I am guessing I need to find a IGN. source to hook that wire to so it turned the alternator on, I will try and follow back the wire first and see if I cant find the problem but there is a lot of wires! thanks for all your help guys!!!!
99FiveOh
15 Year Member
again, did you check your underhood fuse for the alternator? It will do exactly what you are describing if it's blown. And please don't rig it up when it comes to your charging system, it only takes seconds to start a fire that will burn your car to the ground. Also, that wire doesn't get 12 volts, it gets 8 volts so you can't simply run power to it.
If you can't figure it out, run power through a small 12v lightbult, then to that circuit, the light bulb will reduce the voltage to where it needs to be.
If you can't figure it out, run power through a small 12v lightbult, then to that circuit, the light bulb will reduce the voltage to where it needs to be.
I looked at all the fuses and they looked good, I also replaced all the fused that even looked like they could be bad. Is there anything between the alternaror and the AMP bulb besides the fuse that could blow or burn out? I dont want to rig it up, I tested it today and it got no volts when the IGN was on. Could the wire be burned up?
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