narrowed down to 2 cam choices, convine me which to buy (solid or hyd)

DarkoStoj

DarkoStoj

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Sep 4, 2002
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#1
narrowed down to 2 cam choices, convine me which to buy (solid or hyd) *DYNO SHEET*

Finally time to pick out a camshaft and I'm deciding between the comp cams 282S and XE274H

282S

dur 236 @.50 .578 lift with 1.72 rockers 110 lsa

XE274H

230/236 @.50 .558/.562 with 1.72 rockers 110lsa

With the solid i'd make some more top end and not die off so quickly, and have a better torque curve through the bottom end, but the only advantage I see of the hyd is better streetability.

this is going into a 351w with

forged pistons
ported/polished World Windsor cast heads
vic JR intake
10.5:1 CR
no carb yet, but probably a 750dp
150 cheater shot of spray
tremec 3550 5 speed trans
3.55 gears (i can see 4.10's in the future)

all going into a 2600 lb 67 mustang

I guess the basic question is the streetability difference between the solid and hyd. I want to drive this car as much as possible, but are the benefits of the hyd flat tappets on the street worth it to sacrifice the power potential of a solid flat tappet?

How many people have run solid flat tappets on the street? Not just to the track and back, but on a car that gets frequent street miles. How often do you check the valve lash?

Right now i'm leaning towards the solid 282s

I just punched all the specs for my motor in my desktop engine analyzer for a approximation dyno sheet.

green - hp of 282s
blue - torque of 282s
red - hp of XE274H
light blue - torque of XE274H

solid%20or%20hyd%20cam.jpg
 

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#2
I have used solids in the past, granted it was old school versions but I'll never do it again. I'd say get the 274H or even a 278/280H before the 282S.

There's always the hydraulic roller versions too, they give you the best of both worlds if you ask me.
 
#3
Edbert said:
I have used solids in the past, granted it was old school versions but I'll never do it again. I'd say get the 274H or even a 278/280H before the 282S.

There's always the hydraulic roller versions too, they give you the best of both worlds if you ask me.
Click to expand...

why do you say the solid is so terrible?

Any roller cam is out of the question since i'd need a retrofit and thats just not going to happen because this is on a budget

I am leaning more towards the 282s
 
#4
The one I drove for a year require me to adjust the lash every few months. After two or three times of getting hot-arsed oil splashed on me and the car I said never again.

there are plenty of educated folks who swear by their solids though, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. The only reason I'd do a solid again was if the profile was too radical for a hydraulic.
 
#6
I agree with blkfrd. I would go with the solid. If you have to adjust them more than one time per year - something is wrong! Something is either moving, wearing or loosening up. Not the cams fault. I ran a mild windsor with stock crank, rods, 9to1 pistons, and even heads (except mild porting, 1.9 1.6 valves and screw in studs that I did all myself) Cam I was running was a solid from Ultradyne. Althought I think they are now gone. :( Adv. #'s 276/284 .552/.565 before lash. Ran a best of 12.50@108. I did experiment with adjusting a few thousandths at a time tighter and looser but couldn't notice any difference. After that, just checked them every year. Ususally didn't touch them. Only "bad??" thing I noticed was they were quite a bit louder than hyd. But then again I kind of liked it, sounded more like a "race" car but that's a personel preference.
 
#7
ok here's my view on it. both of those cams are fairly equal across the board, the solid may have a bit more low-end torque but enough that you'd really notice it that much. the usable RPM range on a 351w ends at about 5500 rpm and both of those cams are dead equal at that RPM in both TQ and HP, fo my money i would go with the hydraulic for ease of maintenance, idle quality and streetability. also notice that the solid is a little peakier than the hydraulic, peaky cams are not good on race car much less a street car, the goal is to get the flattest and broadest curve you can get which in this case goes to the hydraulic. overall i'd say you may get maybe 2-3/10ths better 1/4 mile times out of the solid but at the expense of a lot of streetabilty, also keep in mind that the hydraulic will make better vacuum driving around town which means you're power brakes will work better and trust me a car with power brakes that don't work SUCKS..................
 
#8
so i just got off the phone with comp cams and lunati. They reccomended me HUGE cams since i wanted to spin 7k rpm

I've decided to go with a

249/258 dur @.50 .581/.596 lift (with 1.72 rockers) 108 lca cam

tech explained to me that since i'm running a 150 shot the more duration on the exaust valve should help with the nitrous

comp cams reccomended me a 265/276 dur @.50 :eek:
 
#9
DarkoStoj said:
so i just got off the phone with comp cams and lunati. They reccomended me HUGE cams since i wanted to spin 7k rpm

I've decided to go with a

249/258 dur @.50 .581/.596 lift (with 1.72 rockers) 108 lca cam

tech explained to me that since i'm running a 150 shot the more duration on the exaust valve should help with the nitrous

comp cams reccomended me a 265/276 dur @.50 :eek:
Click to expand...


IIRC you are using a stock bottom end except for the forged pistons right? if so it won't handle 7k revs. unless you are going to run an aftermarket crank and rods forget all about that 7k stuff with a windsor, especially with giggle gas. like i said a stock bottom end windsor is good for about 5500 rpm maybe 6k with good rod bolts and a completely balanced rotating assembly. i still stand by my recommendation of the XE274H. but hey, if you want to waste your moeny, it is your money so waste it if you want to.
 
#10
bnickel said:
IIRC you are using a stock bottom end except for the forged pistons right? if so it won't handle 7k revs. unless you are going to run an aftermarket crank and rods forget all about that 7k stuff with a windsor, especially with giggle gas. like i said a stock bottom end windsor is good for about 5500 rpm maybe 6k with good rod bolts and a completely balanced rotating assembly. i still stand by my recommendation of the XE274H. but hey, if you want to waste your moeny, it is your money so waste it if you want to.
Click to expand...

i don't know about that. I know lots of people with stock bottom ends that are balanced with arp rod bolts spinning 7500 all day long.
 
#11
DarkoStoj said:
i don't know about that. I know lots of people with stock bottom ends that are balanced with arp rod bolts spinning 7500 all day long.
Click to expand...


7500 with a 351w? i doubt it, 302's and 5.0's maybe 351c's but not 351w's. if you know someone that is running a 351w with a stock bottom end to 7500 i guarantee that sooner or later you will HAVE KNOWN someone that DID it, but they won't be doing it long.
 
#12
bnickel said:
7500 with a 351w? i doubt it, 302's and 5.0's maybe 351c's but not 351w's. if you know someone that is running a 351w with a stock bottom end to 7500 i guarantee that sooner or later you will HAVE KNOWN someone that DID it, but they won't be doing it long.
Click to expand...

the weak point in the 351w bottom end is the rod bolts. I have ARP rod bolts, ARP main studs, and a balanced rotating assy..... well..... if I'm wrong wish me luck because its going to 7500 if it likes it or not :eek:
 
#13
If your Windsor has the early rods, the weak point isn't the bolts. It's the rods. And while it may handle 7500 rpms Occasionally, it certainly isn't going to handle that rpm "all day long" Ask the Nascar guys what it takes to handle that rpm "all day long." And bnickle------------ nice try, but darko is hell bent on wasting his motor as quickly as he can. :D I just can't figure why he says he's on a budget, but insists on going "balls to the wall" on his motor. :shrug:
 
#15
Billgear said:
Something with a wider lobe center might help with the spray, all depends on how often your going to use it i guess.
Click to expand...

from what I understand when running a car with nitrous it is best to have atleast 10* more duration on the exaust side and a higher lsa. Since i'm running a "relatively" small amount at 150 it really wouldn't matter much. When i was talking to the tech they said the cam they told me to run is great for a dual puropuse motor on n/a and spray.
 
#19
You'd beter triple check the clearances before you go. The massive lift combined with 1.72 rockers tells me you may need to flycut the pistons further.

If you need to cut them you'll find that retrofitting the block for a roller cam is comparatively not as big a deal as you may think.
 
#20
Edbert said:
You'd beter triple check the clearances before you go. The massive lift combined with 1.72 rockers tells me you may need to flycut the pistons further.

If you need to cut them you'll find that retrofitting the block for a roller cam is comparatively not as big a deal as you may think.
Click to expand...

the lift #'s I have listed are with the 1.72 rockers already calculated in

well the main reason I'm not doing the retro fit for rollers is the price.

Would it be possible to just get dogbones and a spider out of the junkyard, then drill and tap the block?
 
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