Need a new rack and pinion

If looking to go really cheap, you could just delete the power steering. all that would cost ya is a shorter belt. Driving down the road isnt bad but, turning into parking spots kinda sucks. when my pump started leaking, I just took it & all the lines off and put on a shorter belt.

It can be done but is a pain. I would let someone else do it. One from latemodelresto will have everything you need for $250. And you will need an alignment.

The replacement rack is less than $100 from AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts. Be sure to get the sport steering rack (2.5 turns lock to lock). An alignment will cost you $35-$65, just get a two wheel alignment, for all practical purposes, you can't align the rear wheels on a fox body Mustang. Check out the power steering hoses, they may need replacing ($21-$23 pressure hose, $12-$15 return hose). Now would be a good time to consider replacing the stock rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane bushings ($13 - be sure you don't get the ones for a lowered car)

How much slack are in the tie rod joints and universal & flex joint steering shaft couplers?

The universal and flex joint steering shaft couplers can be inspected with the car parked on the ground. With the engine off, have a helper rock the steering wheel back and forth while you inspect the universal and flex joint steering shaft couplers for excessive slack. You'll need a sharp eye and a strong light to do a good job.

Support the car on jackstands with the jackstands placed as close to the wheel as possible. With the steering locked, have a helper try to move each front wheel just like it would move if you turned the steering wheel. While they are rocking the wheels, you are under the car watching for slack in the tie rods.

Steering rack replacement
The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by removing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

Power steering pressure lines:
Each hose uses an O ring on each end to seal them. The hoses will swivel when they are installed and tightened into place. That is why there are O rings on the fittings. The O ring is the part that actually makes the pressure seal. If you slide the nut all the way back as far as it will go, you will see the O ring and the groove cut into the center section of the fitting.



Sometimes you will get some white Teflon rings with the pump or rack. The rings go on the threaded part of the fitting to reduce or prevent small leaks. They are not meant to seal the pressure part of the line or substitute for the rubber O ring. Heat the white Teflon seals in hot water and they will be easier to install. You can install the fittings without them and not have any leaks if the O rings seal good.

Hey Rich. I assume the Rack and Pinion Bushings that are offset are for the lowered cars and that the performance rack will work for my stock 86 gt?

I went to get a rack today and they said that they had 4 choices and that I had to pull mine in order to tell what needed to be ordered. I dont want to do that since I cant afford to have the car down while I wait for days to get the new one.

striker911 said:

Hey Rich. I assume the Rack and Pinion Bushings that are offset are for the lowered cars and that the performance rack will work for my stock 86 gt?

I went to get a rack today and they said that they had 4 choices and that I had to pull mine in order to tell what needed to be ordered. I dont want to do that since I cant afford to have the car down while I wait for days to get the new one.

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The offest bushings are indeed for lowered cars.

As for there being 4 different steering racks, all I know is that you want the sport steering rack that is 2.5 turns lock to lock. All the racks have the same mount and hose connections, so the differences would be the core and number of turns lock to lock. If they are insistent, tell them to copy the pictures out of the catalog so you can compare them to what you have.

I would advise you to buy new power steering hoses whil you are at it. It will reduce the chance of leaks and more work.

jrichker said:

The offest bushings are indeed for lowered cars.

As for there being 4 different steering racks, all I know is that you want the sport steering rack that is 2.5 turns lock to lock. All the racks have the same mount and hose connections, so the differences would be the core and number of turns lock to lock. If they are insistent, tell them to copy the pictures out of the catalog so you can compare them to what you have.

I would advise you to buy new power steering hoses whil you are at it. It will reduce the chance of leaks and more work.

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Funny you say to replace the lines. I noticed mine where rusting and wanted new ones. I called the auto stores and no one had any so I slapped it together. I didn't even change the o-rings and yes so far Im lucky. Ill know better once the lines start leaking.

90stang5speed said:

If looking to go really cheap, you could just delete the power steering. all that would cost ya is a shorter belt. Driving down the road isnt bad but, turning into parking spots kinda sucks. when my pump started leaking, I just took it & all the lines off and put on a shorter belt.

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Come on man, where you really suggesting the OP do this?
No power steering is bad enough with a manual rack, but to just delete the lines and leave a power rack with no power is just terrible.