These are my version of them anyway. I'm not really sure how they are supposed to be adjusted. I jacked the car up under the rear-end and did them a little more than hand tight. I've done them tighter and don’t notice any difference. I had bad wheel hop, now its better but its still there. On street tires I get a 2.0 60ft. What should I expect now that I have these and they are working properly? The ride sure is stiffer from the solid mount in the spring. Before I could hardly tell I had a locker since the bushing absorbed everything. The gears whining is a lot louder now too. Any tips on how I need to make these work right? Also what leaf springs do I have? 4.5 or 5? I don’t know what the difference is.
Need help adjusting Caltracs
- Thread starter 1969mach1351
- Start date
302 coupe
Founding Member
I'd remove the short 5th leaf you have in there. Then try using the top hole but with a little more preload.
Also, you need to correct your shock mounting tab angles. You're putting alot of side load on the shocks, that'll screw up the seals/shaft and cause for screwy movement.
Also, you need to correct your shock mounting tab angles. You're putting alot of side load on the shocks, that'll screw up the seals/shaft and cause for screwy movement.
I'm not an expert but I am sure you want the car sitting on the ground and pointed straight. I think guys back the car up about six feet then foward in a straight line. Then adjust both with the same tension. I think you will end up with one a little tighter than the other to help it launch straight. Most guys have them set a little loose on the street and snug them up at the track.
I just finished up a homemade set of slide-a-links, I wont be able to mount try them out for a few months though.
I just finished up a homemade set of slide-a-links, I wont be able to mount try them out for a few months though.
Hack
15 Year Member
I have a Word doc I downloaded somewhere that has directions on how to build Caltracs. It also explains how to adjust them. Below is a quote from the document.1969mach1351 said:
At this point you're sic installation should be complete. Remember to adjust the transfer rod so the pressure point is just resting on the spring. Do this with the weight off the wheels for best results and once adjusted don't forget to tighten the lock nuts on all the rod ends.
The way I read this, you should jack up the rear of the car by the frame rails, so that the wheel and axle assembly hang free. Then adjust the Caltracs until they just touch the top of the spring. If you lift the rear by the differential, it's really no different as far as the leaf springs go from having the tires on the ground. The leaf springs will still be compressed in exactly the same fashion.
If I'm visualizing this correctly, the method in my document will give you more preload. The additional preload should help prevent wrap and hop. So just jack the car up by the frame rails until the rear hangs free, then adjust. Try that out and let us know how it works.
I found this in my tool box. It is part of the installation instructions for Slide-A-Links. Cal-Tracs should be very similar.
1. With vehicle on LEVEL ground, roll it back and forth in a straight line at least five feet. This is very important on vehicles with a spool but is necessary for all types of limited slip differential vehicles.
2.Block the front and back of one of the front tires
3. Rotate the drivers side tube until play is removed then tighten one additional turn to pre-load.
4. rotate the drivers side until play is removed then an additional 1 1/2 turn to compensate for driver's weight
For street use you rotate the tubes to remove play then back them off to leave 1/4 gap at shock pad.
1. With vehicle on LEVEL ground, roll it back and forth in a straight line at least five feet. This is very important on vehicles with a spool but is necessary for all types of limited slip differential vehicles.
2.Block the front and back of one of the front tires
3. Rotate the drivers side tube until play is removed then tighten one additional turn to pre-load.
4. rotate the drivers side until play is removed then an additional 1 1/2 turn to compensate for driver's weight
For street use you rotate the tubes to remove play then back them off to leave 1/4 gap at shock pad.
Ok so I have contradicting ways of setting the preload. 2 for on the ground, 1 in the air. Anyone else agree or disagree with one of these methods or how about removing the 5th leaf? As for the longer U-bolts I couldn't find any and I don’t think I really need them since that is the length it has been for the 5 years I've owned the car, do I 
I have already bought longer bolts for the rear rod mount.
I have already bought longer bolts for the rear rod mount.
Maybe I should have looked at the Caltracs webpage.
"With the CALTRACS installed and the rear tires reinstalled, lower the car to the ground. As an initial setting, turn the Force Transfer Link until the spring Stop Bolt just contacts the upper surface of the spring, then turn the Force Transfer Link one turn more to establish pre-load. Tighten the Force Transfer Link lock nut. That's it!"
Edbert-
If I had a bar that sandwiches the leaf wouldn't that lift the rear end under breaking? Is a sliding type not loaded unless under acceleration?
"With the CALTRACS installed and the rear tires reinstalled, lower the car to the ground. As an initial setting, turn the Force Transfer Link until the spring Stop Bolt just contacts the upper surface of the spring, then turn the Force Transfer Link one turn more to establish pre-load. Tighten the Force Transfer Link lock nut. That's it!"
Edbert-
If I had a bar that sandwiches the leaf wouldn't that lift the rear end under breaking? Is a sliding type not loaded unless under acceleration?
302 coupe
Founding Member
after looking at your bars again....why do you have two holes on the spring plate bracket and only one hole at the other end (spring eye bracket)? My cal-tracs are the opposite. It also appears that the geometry is a good bit different.
Also, the directions for mine say to adjust preload with the car on the ground, with the driver (or similar weight) in the seat. You could probably make up for that by preloading the passenger side an extra turn or two.
Also, the directions for mine say to adjust preload with the car on the ground, with the driver (or similar weight) in the seat. You could probably make up for that by preloading the passenger side an extra turn or two.
1969mach1351 said:
Well, under hard braking, the rear end tends to lift while the front dives just from weight transfer. So I would think that force would be directed to the springs to compensate for that, keeping you more level.
The sliding types have a small amount of pre-load for racing, 1 turn or 1.5 turns. For street driving my instructions say to leave a small gap, so no pre-load at all for normal driving.
Look at this picture:
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