Need help fast with new stroker motor

[rowdie- stang]

I have a DSS Pro Bullet 347 with a Paxton Novi 1000 with 10# of boost. I also put in a complete aeromotive competition fuel system. When I first started it, it idled at about 2000 Rpms and quickly overheated. I checked everything that I knew to check. After about 5 or 6 heat cycles I tore the top of the motor back apart, retorqed the heads, adjusted the roller rockers, replaced the intake gaskets and put everything back together. I also pulled the distributor and dropped it back in on the #1 TDC. It still wants to idle real high and overheat fast. I dont currently have a chip burnt for it. I am going to let Atlanta chasis dyno dyno tune it but I want it to be running decent when I take it there.

By the way I have 42# injectors with the right calibration tube for my c & l 76mm

 

[jerryD]

possible vacuum leak some where? also check the screw on the throttle body. bringing that out may close the butterfly some and lower the idle. also check the IAB on the front of the TB as well.

 

[rowdie- stang]

The throttle screw is all the way out plus the iab has the ford racing plate that goes behind it and that is all the way closed.. I cant seem to find a vacuum leak but will check again. I have even sprayed brake cleaner around to try to find it and no luck. The throttle body is Mac 70 mm with the hole already cut in thebutterfly

 

[rowdie- stang]

I think I might have found the culprit. There is a vacuum cylinoid on the back of the passanger strut tower and one of the "tits" was broken off where the vacuum line attaches. What do you think

 

[rowdie- stang]

What kind of vacuum should I have with a b-21 blower cam from anderson motorsports. I cant remember the specs on the cam the paper work on it is in my shop

 

[vristang]

I have even sprayed brake cleaner around to try to find it and no luck.

Brake cleaner is bad mojo for this, it will dissolve alot of things ie plastics.
A better choice is starting fluid.

That vac leak could very well be the source of your problems.

My vac is at 17-18" at idle, but the cam will have a major affect on this. Also, I had a vac leak and the vac was steady at the same level. Having good vac numbers does not mean you don't have a vac leak. Keep in mind that vac can leak through any gaket in any direction. The leak I had was in the lower intake to head gasket. The result was pulling full engine vac on the crankcase. If you hook a vac gauge to the crankcase you will be able to tell if this is the case. All it takes is for the lower gasket to slip down a little when you drop the intake in place. You can also check that you can see the top of the gasket between the head and intake.

Also, see if the problem changes when you crimp the pcv hose. I am currently getting too much airflow through the crankcase/pcv. The excess flow through the pcv is basically a vac leak via the TB/valve cover line.

Hope this helps
jason

 

[Ourobos]

You didn't reuse crush head gaskets did you?

 

[Michael Yount]

Vacuum leak likely won't cause the overheating. The vacuum leak is an annoyance that can be traced down after start up; the overheating will kill the motor. Focus on that first.

Did you orient the head gaskets properly? They should block off the front block to head water passages so water is forced from the pump to the rear of the block first and then into the back of the heads where it can then travel forward.

 

[rowdie- stang]

I bought a Dss long block with low compression twisted wedge heads so I didnt install the head gaskets. I ran the car today for about 5 mins the gauge was reading 250+ but when I touched the radiator cap it wasnt hot at all and when I touched the upper rad hose it was only a little hot. could it just be a bad sender or gauge

 

[Jeff7477]

so I didnt install the head gaskets.

.......

 

[vristang]

I bought a Dss long block with low compression twisted wedge heads so I didnt install the head gaskets. I ran the car today for about 5 mins the gauge was reading 250+ but when I touched the radiator cap it wasnt hot at all and when I touched the upper rad hose it was only a little hot. could it just be a bad sender or gauge

Sounds like the t stat is in backwards and stopping flow. There is a bypass which will allow enough coolant to flow to heat the hose a little.

Pop it out and see which way it points, it'll just cost a new gasket.

 

[90mustangGT]

Obviously, water isn't going through the radiator. This is caused by:
1. T-stat not opening up.
2. Water pump not pumping.

These two conditions can be caused by air pockets as well. A waterpump will not pump air, hot air is going to take a long time to open a T-stat. I've always drilled a small hole in the t-stat and made sure it was pointed towards the top when I installed it. This prevents both air pockets and the "Shock" effect when a t-stat first opens up. Makes it take longer to heat up. What I mean about shock is the fact the t-stat usually takes about 10* over where is really is rated to first open up, then cold water is introduced to the 190* engine, it closes, then opens, closes, opens again. This keeps a steady flow, just regulates it.