At 60 lb/hr, I would be switching to a FAST engine management system myself. A MAF and 60 lb/hr injectors with a stock or "tweeked" ECU will never give you the power and driveability of a good stand alone system. It will work, but for the time and effort to make it work, you just will not get the same results as a good Stand alone system. IMHO. (and experience) but hell, it is not my $$ that are being spent!
De-tune the car to where 42's will do it. Maybe run less boost. It will serve more than purpose, your car will be safe now to drive it, and it will last longer so you can compile the correct parts to run more power and rpm (race block).
60's will do no good if your car is broken.
You seem like a guy that likes to see huge numbers on the dyno, but 500rwhp feels no different than 540rwhp.
No offense, but anyone with an S trim and a decent heads cam intake setup can make the same power pullied the right way, it's just that nobody does because there is no longevity to the setup.
Do the wise thing and back it down a little. You'd be suprised to see the catastrophic damage 540rwhp can do to an engine. You have quality parts, the managled mess a split block can cause includes a ruined cam, damaged heads, and even a broken lower intake.
I split my block but thats not why im going along with our friend XP here, to have the power you need to have the right setup. Once you get the goods i.e ( new block and Stand alone) life will be much better. If your at your limits stuff will break for sure. A tiny bit of Knocking will damage items quick.
You still gotta pay to play
point my in the direction of a stand alone. I know nothing about them nor have I heard anything really about them except they are expensive and how are they better than the stock fuel system
you dont need standalone for your application the stock electronics will support well above your potential in hp.
you dont buy maf for your injectors you buy a maf for your hp level did dan datalog your maf voltage or what? What maf do you have? is it pegged? if you change maf it will require a retune and another trip to sc lol
60lb injectors you can get from lightning force performance for around 350ish i think
if you go standalone plan on street tuning that, because you will need a 3 bar gm map and you cant tune it on dans dyno because to tune a standalone you need loaded dynos
Re-read his post.
New block AND standalone.
No need for any standalone until you have a dart, A4, R302 or the new boss block.
Keep in mind too, a FAST or DFI system is over a grand, and you are going to pay out the azz for dyno time and to have it tuned.
Your car has alot of weak spots right now, i'd be much more concerned about them, especially since you suggest with this post that you are running out of mustang money.
Sounds like you are one disaster away from not driving your car for the summer.
So as i said, back the boost down to a safe level, and worry about the other weak spots.
Block
Trans
Rear
I gotta agree with "Hasselhoff" I mean S&B and XP, you have even more things to worry about. I'd back it down, actually way down and enjoy driving the car otherwise you'll need a $5000 shortblock before you know it.
I saw you mention a Tremec 3550, don't waste your money they are not that much stronger then a T-5. You need to look at a TKO600+, and your getting into the relm of where I like to put a complete fuel system on to be honest.
The blowers are real hard on a stock crank and bearings, you have to put so much belt tension on a Vortech, Paxton, etc due to the tnesioner design that you are actually pulling up on the crank and pulling it forward, they always take out the front main first, and the thrust. Due to all the stress if it detonates one good time, you'll split the block just like S&B did, and if you don't have a girdle holding the pieces together your parts will be trash.
The 80mm PMAS or Pro-M will support well into the 1000HP range, just have it re-calibrated for $100-125, and the 60# inj will need some work to make it streetable. I had success with a SCT Xcal and a 60# inj, took some pulls to get it all sorted out.
A good stand alone is the Big Stuff 3...looking at $2500+ and lots of dyno tune with a proficent tuner.
Send it back to PMAS for recalibration.
Not sure Rick was suggesting you go the 60# route, i think he was giving examples of what "can" be done.
It's a PITA for an amatuer to get 60's to work well for a street car.
Stay with the 42's.
The meter can be sent back to PMAS who can recalibrate it for any injector you need.... When you go 60# inj have it done...
Aint' that the truth. 500+rwhp is for people with 12k in the bank waiting to be spent.I dont mean to be a buzz kill but you need to come to a fork in the road, One fork leads to 15-20k of supporting products to make 800+ hp and One fork leads to another 1k and 550hp. If your musting is a car you depend on dont pick the 800hp road its more of a hobbiest car then. and to be honest there is not a ton of differance b/t the two power numbers when your on the street. If I were to do it all over again I would have baught someone elses project that had all the money dumped into it. Thats why you see some supped up stangs going for 20k b/c people like me and XP (and others) know what it takes to get up there from experiance.
Mustangs are like Women, the Hoter, the Wetter and the More wild they are. The more money they cost you.
Good luck with making your machine what you want.
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