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Need help on a Magnaflow catted x-pipe install please!

  • Thread starter Thread starter DaveL
  • Start date Start date Jul 3, 2004
D

DaveL

Founding Member
May 10, 2001
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NYC
Jul 3, 2004
#1
  • Jul 3, 2004
  • #1
Today went horrible trying to install the x-pipe! First time a passenger side stud broke where it connects to the headers. So that had to be cut out and replaced. Everything seemed to go fine till the car was started and there was a huge leak. The x-pipe bolted on fine with my SLP catback but the flange on my MAC headers (2.5 diameter) were too big for the ball end of the x-pipe. So the x-pipe didn't seat properly even when the studs were tightened. I ended up having to swap my Prochamber back in.

Any ideas on what to do to get it to fit would be greatly appreciated? Thanks.
 
1

1hot5.0

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
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Surprise, Arizona
Jul 3, 2004
#2
  • Jul 3, 2004
  • #2
The flanges on the headers may look to big for the x-pipe, but once you bolt the x-pipe to the headers it will seal up.
 

HoofnIt

Founding Member
Jan 8, 2001
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North Carolina
Jul 3, 2004
#3
  • Jul 3, 2004
  • #3
I've got 3 words for you....Magnaflow is JUNK! I went through a similar installation nightmare earlier this week. I didn't break a stud but the pipes that connect to the headers (I'm using brand new FRPP shorty headers) do NOT line up. I had to use a hydraulic jack just to get the pipe up far enough to put the nuts on the studs. I just got my car running and I know the pass side is leaking. Just looking at it I can tell it's not lined up or tight enough. I'm going to get the jack back under there and try to tighten it up. If I can't fix the leak, I'm going to send it back as this is already my second x pipe.
 
1

1hot5.0

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
1,615
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0
Surprise, Arizona
Jul 3, 2004
#4
  • Jul 3, 2004
  • #4
HoofnIt said:
I've got 3 words for you....Magnaflow is JUNK! I went through a similar installation nightmare earlier this week. I didn't break a stud but the pipes that connect to the headers (I'm using brand new FRPP shorty headers) do NOT line up. I had to use a hydraulic jack just to get the pipe up far enough to put the nuts on the studs. I just got my car running and I know the pass side is leaking. Just looking at it I can tell it's not lined up or tight enough. I'm going to get the jack back under there and try to tighten it up. If I can't fix the leak, I'm going to send it back as this is already my second x pipe.
Click to expand...

Send it back and get a Bassani. I got mine used and had no fitment issues what so ever.

I'm starting to hear fitment problems more and more with Magnaflow. The said thing is that they are one of the most expensive exhaust companies out there.
 
D

DaveL

Founding Member
May 10, 2001
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0
NYC
Jul 4, 2004
#5
  • Jul 4, 2004
  • #5
For $400 you'd expect it to fit like a glove. We pulled the pipes and used a pry bar during the install too.
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Jul 5, 2004
#6
  • Jul 5, 2004
  • #6
We didn't have any problems installing a magnaflow o/r x-pipe on my brothers 2003 GT.

I would recommend getting new bolts with washers & nuts. It makes the install really easy. Plus, you can tighten it more, so you won't have any leaks. Remove all 4 studs from the header flanges. Might as well, to ensure proper seal.
Scott
 

HoofnIt

Founding Member
Jan 8, 2001
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36
North Carolina
Jul 5, 2004
#7
  • Jul 5, 2004
  • #7
I would recommend getting new bolts with washers & nuts. It makes the install really easy.
Click to expand...

The studs and nuts are brand new-FRPP ceramic coated shorties.
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Jul 5, 2004
#8
  • Jul 5, 2004
  • #8
HoofnIt said:
The studs and nuts are brand new-FRPP ceramic coated shorties.
Click to expand...

Do the threads on the studs go all the way up the stud? They don't on the factory studs, so I figured the same for the ones you have. If the threads go all the way up, it sounds like you need to tighten the connections more. Get a big breaker bar if need be.
Scott
 

HoofnIt

Founding Member
Jan 8, 2001
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Jul 5, 2004
#9
  • Jul 5, 2004
  • #9
Do the threads on the studs go all the way up the stud?
Click to expand...

Yes, they do. I would really be pissed if I broke one of the studs trying to tighten things up! I guess I'm going to have to give it a try anyhow. I'll put the jack under the pipe and lift it up some. If I do get it to seal, I wonder how hard it's going to be to get out of there?
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Jul 5, 2004
#10
  • Jul 5, 2004
  • #10
The difficulty of removal will be dependant on the amount of rust build-up, IMO. Are the header studs stainless steel? If they are, then make sure you are using stainless steel nuts also. That should prevent any rust from building up.

If they aren't SS, then it might take some PB blaster or CLR to remove them next time around. Hopefully not though. PB blaster loosened up my factory studs/nuts very well.
Scott
 
D

DaveL

Founding Member
May 10, 2001
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0
NYC
Jul 9, 2004
#11
  • Jul 9, 2004
  • #11
I decided to take the car to a Mustang shop to get the pipe installed. The passenger side pipe had to be bent to properly line up with the header. The car is alot quieter now with the 2 cats and butt dyno feels like I got some torque back.
 
S

Smokenum02GT

New Member
Jul 10, 2004
7
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0
Jul 10, 2004
#12
  • Jul 10, 2004
  • #12
I had the Bassani catback and X pipe...now I just have the Bassani catback because of their stupid converters melting.

I put on a Magnaflow X pipe and it fit perfectly with the factory exhaust manifold maybe your headers are off.
 
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