Rickki is the local guy with the meter & injectors willing to seperatate the meter? I already commited to this one guy for the injectors.
Let me know....thanks!
Let me know....thanks!
Need help still can't get this thing to run right....(long)
- Thread starter Mike86Stang
- Start date
Ok here's what I found I did KOER & KOEO scans a balance test & checked the meter voltages & ohms.
Codes were:
91 - Right EGO always lean.
67 - neutral drive switch has faults.
Balance test came back clean per the EEC.
On the MAF here's what I got...
Pin A - 15.69v
Pin B - meter was on the 20k spot
ohms to chassis = .7
ohms to engine = .11
ohms to battery = .16
Pin C - .11v
Pin D - 1.30v
All these mesurements were at idle.
I checked for vacumme leaks & I couldn't find anything so I'm assuming I have a weak/bad inj or possibly a bad O2??
So what does that tell us?
TIA everyone
mike
Codes were:
91 - Right EGO always lean.
67 - neutral drive switch has faults.
Balance test came back clean per the EEC.
On the MAF here's what I got...
Pin A - 15.69v
Pin B - meter was on the 20k spot
ohms to chassis = .7
ohms to engine = .11
ohms to battery = .16
Pin C - .11v
Pin D - 1.30v
All these mesurements were at idle.
I checked for vacumme leaks & I couldn't find anything so I'm assuming I have a weak/bad inj or possibly a bad O2??
So what does that tell us?
TIA everyone
mike
perkys stang
New Member
MSTANG said:
Why is the battery voltage so hgh? I have seen higher voltages throw the MAF out of wack...
My assumption would be the fact I have a bigger alt on there now (not a 1g but has another 35 amps)....
Now these reading were of course with the car running... no clue why it would be that high though??
I'll double check it in a minute & report back.
Now these reading were of course with the car running... no clue why it would be that high though??
I'll double check it in a minute & report back.
Ok well I double checked it & the result is the same. I checked it to an engine ground & the voltage checked in higher at 16.3 v ????
Ranchero5.0
The Voice of Reason
What does the battery read?
Remember, the MAF reads the current used by the heater to maintain a certain temperature at the sensor. More air = more current to keep it hot. Most likely the puter or meter uses extra current to drive the voltage up across a set resistance aka the heater element. Good ole Ohm's law in effect.
Jamie
Remember, the MAF reads the current used by the heater to maintain a certain temperature at the sensor. More air = more current to keep it hot. Most likely the puter or meter uses extra current to drive the voltage up across a set resistance aka the heater element. Good ole Ohm's law in effect.
Jamie
Non taken... 
The reason the voltage is lower with the engine running is due to the radio the head lights & the heater being on. I guess I should have turned off the accessories
The reason the voltage is lower with the engine running is due to the radio the head lights & the heater being on. I guess I should have turned off the accessories
ok, i have pie in my face.
how do you have so much static voltage? i have never eclipsed 12.7 volts - which i think is normal (~2.1 volts per cell).
ya' running a 16 volt battery and messing with us?
BTW, I'm bailin out on this one - you have the studs in here helping ya; I'm not in that league.
how do you have so much static voltage? i have never eclipsed 12.7 volts - which i think is normal (~2.1 volts per cell).
ya' running a 16 volt battery and messing with us?
BTW, I'm bailin out on this one - you have the studs in here helping ya; I'm not in that league.
LoL hey I appreciate any help at all on it so if you want to chime in & toss out a suggest by all mean please do! 
As far as the battery beats me... I may need to try a diffrent meter mine may be off. It is a HUGE 65 series battery but it still really shouldn't read that high.
I'm gonna double check everything with another meter.
Thanks
Mike
As far as the battery beats me... I may need to try a diffrent meter mine may be off. It is a HUGE 65 series battery but it still really shouldn't read that high.
I'm gonna double check everything with another meter.
Thanks
Mike
The MAF sensor output voltages should be measured between pins C & D. I got the impression you measured them to ground, which is not the best way to do it.
Also resistance checks must be done with the power off. Doing them with the power on gives false readings.
Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer.
At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt
Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring. Pin D on the MAF and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms.
There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF and ground.
Also resistance checks must be done with the power off. Doing them with the power on gives false readings.
Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer.
At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt
Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring. Pin D on the MAF and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms.
There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF and ground.
jrichker said:
That is True I did measure them to ground. I wasn't aware it was best to mesure it the other way or even that I should... I'll check it that way with both meters.
jrichker said:
See yet another thing I didn't know... goes to show how much I know about electrical things...
This I did, whether not correctly or not I don't know.(sorry) Should I be measuring this to ground on the harness or will the chassis or engine suffice?jrichker said:
I measured these to chassis to get the former readings (.11 idle on pin C & .130 on pin D). From what I gather from your post...I measured this wrong too
..jrichker said:
I'll check & report back on these! Thanks jrichker
Bump...
I did a little more tinkering and found out that the rail will not hold FP if the key is cycled. If you key it & peak at the gauge & it's already at zero. The Fuel pump is priming so that's not the issue.
Cranking compression is 145psi (2 psi variance) on all cyclinders & it's pulluing 15" of vac at idle.
I did a little more tinkering and found out that the rail will not hold FP if the key is cycled. If you key it & peak at the gauge & it's already at zero. The Fuel pump is priming so that's not the issue.
Cranking compression is 145psi (2 psi variance) on all cyclinders & it's pulluing 15" of vac at idle.
i might try carefully try to crimp the return line (or a segment of the return line where crimping can carefully be done) to narrow down the bleed-off source. seems it would either be the pump (and/or its check valve) or the regulator. the above-test can help with that (im sure you already knew this, but i thought i would toss it out).MSTANG said:
good luck.
HISSIN50 said:i might try carefully try to crimp the return line (or a segment of the return line where crimping can carefully be done) to narrow down the bleed-off source. seems it would either be the pump (and/or its check valve) or the regulator. the above-test can help with that (im sure you already knew this, but i thought i would toss it out).
Since I had to replace a section of the return line before I have a rubber section I can clamp down on. Thanks for that tip... that idea never even crossed my mind. I might be able to do it on my lunch break... jus not sure if I have some vice grips in the hatch or not...
Thanks HISSIN
axeman
Founding Member
maybe that's why your plugs are white. i always thought that the plugs should be a little brown, not wet though. you're running lean then right?
Yep that means I'm lean ... just how lean who knows...
When it go really cold earlier this week I swear it was detonating ... sounded like someone smacked the block with a 20 pound sledge... so I bumped the FP & it stopped. now I'm sitting at 50psi with vac.
Rickki if I could make back what I have into it it would have been chared stang already!
When it go really cold earlier this week I swear it was detonating ... sounded like someone smacked the block with a 20 pound sledge... so I bumped the FP & it stopped. now I'm sitting at 50psi with vac.
Rickki if I could make back what I have into it it would have been chared stang already!
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