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Need help!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter A67StangMaster
  • Start date Start date Jun 22, 2006

A67StangMaster

New Member
May 4, 2005
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San Jose CA
Jun 22, 2006
#1
  • Jun 22, 2006
  • #1
Ok i just got my engine back from the shop..
Ok i put everything back on to the engine except for the rockers and pushrods
and thats where i am lost...

I just got the
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL-2122&N=115&autoview=sku
cam #edl-2122 and a
Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold
#edl-2121 and a
holly 650cfm carb
 

fasttback

New Member
Apr 16, 2005
471
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Northern CA
Jun 22, 2006
#2
  • Jun 22, 2006
  • #2
Need a little more info. What are you lost with? Adjusting the rocker arms with the hydraulic cam?
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
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south louisiana
Jun 22, 2006
#3
  • Jun 22, 2006
  • #3
What heads and rockers does your engine have ? We cannot tell you how to adjust em without that.
 

A67StangMaster

New Member
May 4, 2005
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San Jose CA
Jun 22, 2006
#4
  • Jun 22, 2006
  • #4
ok sorry guys...
ok i have stock 289 heads
not ported or polished
the springs came with the cam kit
I dont know what to buy?? i need rockers but i am trying to save money. the price range needs to be around $150
i was looking at the rollor tip rockers for the setup but i got lost
I also need the pushrods. I dont understand the 1.7, 1.6 ratio stuff
could anyone recomend anything for me?
 
D

D.Hearne

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Sep 29, 2000
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Jun 22, 2006
#5
  • Jun 22, 2006
  • #5
What year 289 and if it's a 66, I need to know the build date. The rockers changed after April 66. Pics would also help. Rocker selection really will depend on the valve stem length. Screw in studs or pressed in? If you don't have screw in studs you need to stick with 1.6 rockers.
 
S

streetgrande69

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Nov 2, 2002
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Splendora, Tx
Jun 22, 2006
#6
  • Jun 22, 2006
  • #6
ok i just went through this....
first thing you'll need to do is get rockers
1.6 is what you need. it's not a heavy cam/moded motor so go with the 1.6...its also the stock ratio for your motor


you'll need to learn how to assemble the springs on the heads....and like above figure out the type of valves you have. you'll also need to figure out the type of studs you have too. you may need a different stud to work with the rockers

you'll have to learn how to check push-rod length. start with the stock size push-rods and then do the test....link

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Products/Pushrods/
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0401_push/index1.html



after you figure out which length push-rod you need...then you'll need to adjut the rockers


"Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload"
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2
 
D

D.Hearne

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Sep 29, 2000
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Jun 22, 2006
#7
  • Jun 22, 2006
  • #7
streetgrande69 said:
ok i just went through this....
first thing you'll need to do is get rockers
you'll also need to figure out the type of studs you have too. you may need a different stud to work with the rockers
Click to expand...
Be a WHOLE lot simpler and cheaper to just get the rockers that go with the heads, studs and valves he's already got. With that cam he doesn't need new studs. If he's still got the original rockers, they'll work fine.
 

A67StangMaster

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May 4, 2005
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San Jose CA
Jun 22, 2006
#8
  • Jun 22, 2006
  • #8
ok i just took a look at the heads the # are
from the front of the engine right side says 289 8A10 WF
Left side says 289 7L24 WF

I have studs i think there 3/8 not sure comparing to a 3/8 bolt.
 
D

D.Hearne

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Sep 29, 2000
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south louisiana
Jun 23, 2006
#9
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #9
You've got 68 heads. You need rail type rockers.If you want a rocker without the rails to keep the rocker on the valve tips, you'll need screw in studs and guide plates, this is also true if you ever want to run a bigger cam than the one you have. To adjust them, put the cylinder you're working on at TDC of the compression stroke. Tighten each valve till the pushrods just get hard to turn with your fingers. Then tighten them another 1/2 turn. I start with the #1 cylinder, and remove the dist cap, watching the rotor as I turn the crank. Crank only needs to turn 1/4 turn between each cylinder in the firing order. You can mark the balancer with chalk in 4 equally spaced places to use as a reference. This isn't necessary with 70-up 4 bolt balancers, on those you can use the pulley bolt bosses for this.
 

A67StangMaster

New Member
May 4, 2005
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San Jose CA
Jun 23, 2006
#10
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #10
ok so if i get the rail type rockers I would be set??
could you help point me in the right direction on summit, i am just lost when it comes to this.


btw is the 68 heads rare?
 

A67StangMaster

New Member
May 4, 2005
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San Jose CA
Jun 23, 2006
#11
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #11
ok here is the heads
 

A67StangMaster

New Member
May 4, 2005
401
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San Jose CA
Jun 23, 2006
#12
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #12
here is the engine
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
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Jun 23, 2006
#13
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #13
A67StangMaster said:
btw is the 68 heads rear?
Click to expand...
I assume you mean "Are the 68 heads rare?" Only the 4 bbl heads are, but this applyies only to their casting numbers. This head is really just a recast early 289 head with the smaller early 289 combustion chambers. This upped the comp ratio to 10.0 to 1 in the 302. The 4 bbl 302 head is also refered to as the "J" code head. Here's the only 1.6 roller tipped rockers I found in Summit Racing's catalog that work with your heads: Part #CCA-1431-16 (Comp Cams)
 

A67StangMaster

New Member
May 4, 2005
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San Jose CA
Jun 23, 2006
#14
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #14
ok now i would need to get the pushrods..
I have some old pushrods left? (like 3 of them lol) would this work to test out how long i need to buy the push rods?
 
D

D.Hearne

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Sep 29, 2000
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Jun 23, 2006
#15
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #15
There's a 99% chance your stock length ones will work. You want them for a late 66 to 77 302. The 78-84 are also the same as well, i believe. Comp Cams # CCA-7831-16. Summit's rods are SUM-G6413
 

A67StangMaster

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May 4, 2005
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San Jose CA
Jun 23, 2006
#16
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #16
ok sounds nice i will finnaly get this engine working after 2 years

Thanks alot D.Hearne for all your help
 
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