Need info on Traction-Lock clutch pack replacement.

jgfiveoh

New Member

May 8, 2006

102

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0

Topeka, KS

May 8, 2006

#1

• May 8, 2006

• #1

any how to's or help would be awesome. i know engines just not to sharp on rear ends. also i've heard that it is possible to pack them one disc tighter on each side for better lock up. how is this done and are there is it worth messing with. someone help, i have the "one wheel blues"

 

EMW150

Founding Member

May 22, 2000

2,020

1

46

Roaring Spring,PA

May 8, 2006

#2

• May 8, 2006

• #2

jgfiveoh said:

any how to's or help would be awesome. i know engines just not to sharp on rear ends. also i've heard that it is possible to pack them one disc tighter on each side for better lock up. how is this done and are there is it worth messing with. someone help, i have the "one wheel blues"

Click to expand...

I always used the alternate stacking order and an F-150 S-Spring with good results. Just need 1 good friction plate from your origional. Here's a good article on it. Easy stuff. You won't have any trouble. The F-150 S Spring takes some practice. I use Channellocks with my left hand and squeeze it while holding in position and then a sharp rap with a two pound sledge and it usually pops in on the 1st try.

http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/5ohcpa/cpa5ohtech018.htm

 

jgfiveoh

New Member

May 8, 2006

102

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Topeka, KS

May 8, 2006

#3

• May 8, 2006

• #3

thanks alot for that link, it's a good article. i never worked on rear ends before so its all still somewhat scary. i also have a set of used 3.73s would now be a good time to put those in? i just can decide if i want them b/c i already have 3.27s and a 3000 stall AOD converter. i'm just worried about excessive wheel spin at the track, although it would be fun on the street.

 

EMW150

Founding Member

May 22, 2000

2,020

1

46

Roaring Spring,PA

May 8, 2006

#4

• May 8, 2006

• #4

Now would definately be the time for the gear change if you decide you want the 3:73s since you're already pulling the carrier.

 

RaceDvr50

New Member

Jul 26, 2005

121

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Coon Rapids

May 8, 2006

#5

• May 8, 2006

• #5

Yes now would be the time, now to really make you uncomfortable you really should set it back up for the new gears

 

88stangmangt

Active Member

Nov 25, 2003

2,332

1

48

Stafford,VA

May 8, 2006

#6

• May 8, 2006

• #6

dont forget your inner and outter bearings and outter seal while your in there....i just did the rear end on my f-150 and i opted for the easy way out i spent the 200 for a new FRPP 31 spline track lock from summit. I hate messing with the shims and disks and all that junk...drag and drop is way easier. dont forget your tranny gear also.....

 

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LX2NV

New Member

Mar 18, 2006

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0

May 9, 2006

#7

• May 9, 2006

• #7

trac lok rebuild is a piece of cake. it sounds like youre unfamilar with the rear end so dont get in to changing gears, no need to pull the carrier either...leave this stuff to someone who knows. it should only take an hour or two...the hardest part is the spring.

 

88stangmangt

Active Member

Nov 25, 2003

2,332

1

48

Stafford,VA

May 9, 2006

#8

• May 9, 2006

• #8

its a good learning exp for him its not that hard just give it a shot.

 

jgfiveoh

New Member

May 8, 2006

102

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0

Topeka, KS

May 9, 2006

#9

• May 9, 2006

• #9

i know gear questions are posted all the time but what would u guys do assuming your running on 245/50R16 street radials with a motor that dynoed @280hp and 324ftlbs, an AOD w/ 3000 stall, and stock suspension. 3.27(in there ) or 3.73? i'm gonna be street and sometimes strip. i was considering getting something simple as far as track tires (ie drag radials or some ETs, just not slicks) just got my engine running right after rebuilding it last summer. plans for track but never been down the strip. (honestly, i'm just trying to justify the 3.73s but i'd still like an opinion. pics coming soon.

 

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bsedwebt70-5.0

New Member

Jul 1, 2004

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Charlottesville, VA

May 9, 2006

#10

• May 9, 2006

• #10

I am getting ready to do the same thing - rebuild the t-loc - bought 2 kits and a new s spring so I can use the extra clutch method and full synthetic gear oil. I also have a 3.27 gear now and am going to install new FMS 3.73's when I have it opened up - I am using the 3.73's because I have installed a E303 w/ 1.7 roller rockers and feel as if I am missing a little bit off idle seat of the pants - This is just my opinion - go with the 3.73's - it will be more fun everyday. Don't forget to change out the speedo gear to match.

 

88stangmangt

Active Member

Nov 25, 2003

2,332

1

48

Stafford,VA

May 9, 2006

#11

• May 9, 2006

• #11

most go with 4.10's and a auto....i have 3.73 in my wifes 85 notch and 4.10's in my 90 lx.

 

RaceDvr50

New Member

Jul 26, 2005

121

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0

Coon Rapids

May 11, 2006

#12

• May 11, 2006

• #12

I run the 3.55's and take a lotta hell for it but I love them on a car that is a daily driver going 70 to 80 on the freeway everyday it still spins at a reasonable RPM and I'm sub 2.0 seconds on drag radials at the track. If I only ran it at the track then I'd have stuck in the 4.10's

 

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bsedwebt70-5.0

New Member

Jul 1, 2004

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Charlottesville, VA

Jun 9, 2006

#13

• Jun 9, 2006

• #13

gears are in and rebuild is done - LOVE the 3.73's and the extra rear clutches work great - quite and easy to drive - no bucking or any problems - first gear goes by quick. I take off easy and at 10mph nail the gas and get some mild tire spin for 15 feet or so and then burn 2nd gear for a couple feet and then chirp 3rd. Rpm's are about 1800 at 55mph in 5th with a corrected speedo gear combo of 7 tooth drive and 23 tooth driven gear on 215/60/16's - seems to be right on the money for calibration.