hey guys my cars been running like a total dog to the point i cant really even drive it anymore...it has a terrrible and i mean really bad miss to it throughtout just about all the rpm's but extremely bad at full throttle....i replaced almost everything electrical except for the computer... would i be able to run the computer from like a 93 cobra...i have the bigger maf, injectors, and intake already woudl that workout ok? or are there any other parts i could replace to find the problem...i already replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pickup in the distributor, coil, different ignition boxes, injectors, checked the timing numerous times and evne found true tpdc on the balancer to make sure it was right, played with the fuel pressure...its now about 38psi....... any help at all would be greatly appreciated i'm bumming my moms car for school now and need some major help..thanks alot guys.
need major help PLEASE
- Thread starter joe23O3
- Start date
Stay away from the Cobra computer.
Whay year car? what are your mods?
Have you replaced the TFI
module?
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Whay year car? what are your mods?
Have you replaced the TFI
module?
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
the car is a 91 lx with a comp xe roller cam i think the numbers are like 270, 276 and .512 lift., i'm using roush 200 heads which have been fully ported and polished and a trickflow intake, i have a 65 mm. holley throttle body. 24lb. injectors, and c&l meter..... anyways about dumping the codes a good friend of mine has a snapon computer and that wont really even pick anything up and its not throwing any codes. i have replaced the tfi module which made no difference noticeable. thanks alot for your help and anymroe input would really help cuz i'm really lost this time.
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