• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech

Need serious help replacing oil pan :(

  • Thread starter Thread starter ilovestangs
  • Start date Start date Jun 14, 2004
I

ilovestangs

New Member
Apr 8, 2004
15
0
0
Jun 14, 2004
#1
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #1
My oil pan on my 87 non turbo stang is rusted to crap, so I bought a new one and unbolted the old one, but I can't get it off. The steering mechanism and the crossmember(?) are preventing it from coming out. I tried jacking up the engine but I still don't have enough clearance. I was thinking instead of dissasembling the whole front end, I would unbolt the tranny and use a hoist to lift up the motor and I could switch the oil pans. I have only one day to replace the oil pan. I need suggestions on how to replace it. PLEASE HELP!!
 

351wcoupe

New Member
Feb 13, 2003
1,811
0
0
Manhattan, Kansas
Jun 14, 2004
#2
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #2
what did you use to raise the engine and how far did you get it up?
 

JamesBaumann

Member
Nov 26, 2003
624
0
16
Vancouver Island
Jun 14, 2004
#3
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #3
I tried taking the pan out of my Stang while it was still in the frame when I did the motor rebuild. No dice. I had to just pull out the block and go from there.
 

Ray III

New Member
Feb 10, 2004
586
0
0
fixin Boomhower's John Deere in Troy, NY
Jun 14, 2004
#4
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #4
The engine should raise pretty far with the mounts disconnected and a lifting device on the crank pulley. The fuel lines are probably going to hold it down but get a fuel line disconnect tool from NAPA and get them off, then there should not be anything preventing the engine from coming up enough to get the pan off.
 

351wcoupe

New Member
Feb 13, 2003
1,811
0
0
Manhattan, Kansas
Jun 14, 2004
#5
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #5
yeah the fuel lines and maybe even the exhaust.
 
I

ilovestangs

New Member
Apr 8, 2004
15
0
0
Jun 14, 2004
#6
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #6
I got the engine about 4 inches up, but its still hitting the oil sump pump I think. I put the engine at TDC and raised the engine by putting a length of 2x4 under the harmonic balancer and jacking it up with a floor jack. Every time I tried jacking the engine up further, it started lifting up the whole body and then the peice of 2x4 went sideways and flew out. Thanks for the suggestions guys, keep em coming!
 

351wcoupe

New Member
Feb 13, 2003
1,811
0
0
Manhattan, Kansas
Jun 14, 2004
#7
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #7
is the sump hitting the rack or the K-member?
 
I

ilovestangs

New Member
Apr 8, 2004
15
0
0
Jun 14, 2004
#8
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #8
Well the only line that was in the way was the coolant line, and I moved that out of the way. The exhaust isn't in the way though. And I think when I try to remove the oil pan its hitting the oil sump pump preventing it from coming completely out.
 

351wcoupe

New Member
Feb 13, 2003
1,811
0
0
Manhattan, Kansas
Jun 14, 2004
#9
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #9
This may be a lat ditch if you can't figure out anything else but.
unhook the exhaust and drop the trans crossmember and let the trans drop a little ways. Then hoist the engine as far as you can at that angle before you start ripping up your wiring (WATCH OUT FOR THE MAP SENSOR) i've replaced 2 that way.
You "should be able to get it with that kind of clearance.
 

Ray III

New Member
Feb 10, 2004
586
0
0
fixin Boomhower's John Deere in Troy, NY
Jun 14, 2004
#10
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #10
unbolt the sump and take it out with the pan
 

Hunter_Zero

Founding Member
Jun 15, 2001
133
0
0
Fraserville, ON, Can
Jun 14, 2004
#11
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #11
Do you have an al4d or a T5? the reason i ask is because when i changed my oil pan(by jacking up the engine, no removal required ) i ended up breaking one of the lines on my al4d that runs from the transmission to the radiator and you thought that the oil pan was a pita .So the moral is you can get that pan out with out yanking the engine but youll probably break somthing else. Good Luck!
 
I

ilovestangs

New Member
Apr 8, 2004
15
0
0
Jun 15, 2004
#12
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #12
I have the al4d tranny. And how far did you jack up the engine Hunter Zero? I hope I can get mine out without having to hoist my engine out.
 

Lex

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2004
248
0
16
Halifax NS. Canada
Jun 15, 2004
#13
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #13
Ok. I replaced my oil pan last weekend. It was a 3.5 hour job (mostly due to rusted bolts) heres the order I did it

1) Disconnect the battery
2) Take off the starter
3) Take off the 2 bolts that hold on your rack & pinnion
4) Take out the bolt and nut to the steering colum
5) Pull out the rack & pinnion as far as you can. That will clear about 3 - 4 inchs right off.
6) Unbolt the plate that bolts from the tranny to engine. Its on the drivers side and its 3 bolts thaty hold it on.
7) Unbolt the wiring harness underneath on the passenger side (single bolt)
8) Unbolt the 2 engine mount bolts. Don't worry the engine won't fall as it sits on the mounts.
9) I'm not sure if you have a hoist (I do) you will need to raise the engine a bit more to give enough slack for the pan. I used a pipe and floor jack and lifted the engine on the bottom pulley (I thought it was a harmonic balancer pulley but I was told different) Point is you need to raise the engine without touching the pan, Makes sense duh. The only thing I had to undo under the hood was my CAI. THats all

10) Remove like I think 16 oil pan bolts (8 mill size)
11) The oil pan will drop. And you should be able to wiggle it out.

I never undid the oil pump and it worked fine. The hanyes book said to unhook the rad hoses and stuff buts its not neccessary.

12) Clean off the gasket crap on the bottom side of the engine (where the pan was) .

13) put some gasket seal on the new pan (I also bit a gab of silicon on the edges on eachend where its a half moon shape cause alot of leaks happen there), then put the NEW gasket on the oil pan and clamp it down with a few vice grips (not too tighten though) let it sit for 20 minutes to let the gasket seal harden to hold the gasket on a bit better , then Put some gasket seal on top of the new gasket.

14) after 20 min , grab a couple bolts and your 8 mil racket and wiggle the new pan back it. watch out for the tranny lines as they can be in the way. I started by bolting all four corners (finger tight) first to set the pan in making sure the gasket was lined up right, then I bolted the rest finger tight.

15) after all the bolt are in I tighten them corner first the work my way to the center.

16) then run steps 10 to 1 reverse and there you have. I also changed my oil filter since basicallt your doing an oil change anyways.

I hope this helps
 

Lex

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2004
248
0
16
Halifax NS. Canada
Jun 15, 2004
#14
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #14
ilovestangs said:
I have the al4d tranny. And how far did you jack up the engine Hunter Zero? I hope I can get mine out without having to hoist my engine out.
Click to expand...

No hoisting engine out nessecary. read above steps and you'll be fine. I have a Al4d tranny as well. Not for long but for now yes.
 

Hunter_Zero

Founding Member
Jun 15, 2001
133
0
0
Fraserville, ON, Can
Jun 15, 2004
#15
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #15
When i did my oil pan i took out the two engine mount bolts jacked the engine as high as it would go(cant quite remember how high i got it 4-6" i think) undid the oil pan bolts, let it drop and wiggled it out wiggled the new one in tightened it up and voila! its not quite as extensive as lex's explanation but it worked for me though i did break that line like i said.
 
I

ilovestangs

New Member
Apr 8, 2004
15
0
0
Jun 15, 2004
#16
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #16
Hey Lex can you explain more about dropping the rack and pinion and the bolt to the steering column? Sorry im a newb to auto mechanics....

Thanks guys for all your input!
 
I

ilovestangs

New Member
Apr 8, 2004
15
0
0
Jun 16, 2004
#17
  • Jun 16, 2004
  • #17
Yay I got my oil pan off and I replaced it. Thanks to all that helped.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Engine New Oil Leak Help.
  • Slo5Oh89
  • Mar 14, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
8
Views
571
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Mar 19, 2025
Slo5Oh89
Drivetrain 83’ Glx convertible C5 Trans help!
  • JacksonJared2113
  • Dec 25, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
2
Views
349
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Dec 26, 2025
JacksonJared2113
M
Need help!
  • Masonevans726
  • Dec 17, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
1
Views
220
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Dec 17, 2025
Masonevans726
M
New Member with a 1992
  • Clutchfork
  • Oct 18, 2025
  • The Welcome Wagon
Replies
5
Views
275
The Welcome Wagon Oct 19, 2025
Clutchfork
S
Drivetrain 8.8 Pinion and 302 rear main seal leaks after replacing. 93 5.0 with t-5
  • Steigy4827
  • Jun 23, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
10
Views
624
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Apr 1, 2026
Steigy4827
S
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?