Need Some Help Fellas....

Y2K_MustangVert · Apr 2, 2006

The stang has developed a new problem. Whenever I go to stop and depress the clutch and apply the brake, the RPMs go to 0 and the car stalls. Is this a TPS issue? Secondly, I just re-oiled my air filter and now I have an SES light. I know this is from the oil getting onto the MAF sensor, but is there anyway I can clean the damn thing off? Finally, I just ordered some new wheels for my car, but I am not sure if I want to run 275/40/17's in front or just stick with 245/45/17's. If anyone is running that size tire on a 17X9 rim, please let me know if it rubs or any other problems that occur. Thanks for any assistance.

Nater · Apr 2, 2006

For the stalling problem, check the IAC and clean or just replace and forget about it. Secondly, you may have put too much oil on the filter--most everyone does. Clean the MAF by using the Bullit Archive as a guide.

Brute03 · Apr 2, 2006

to clean the MAF just take it out and spray the little wires inside real good with some electrical parts cleaner, let it dry (doesn't take long) and re-install it

Nater · Apr 2, 2006

Found the link for you: http://www.bullittarchive.com/1007.htm

Kilgore Trout · Apr 2, 2006

I agree the idle dropping to zero is the IAC, you can get a new one at AutoZone for $48 or get a Motorcraft one for $95. Cleaning it with carb cleaner will get you by for a little longer.

As for the MAF: install a stock paper filter, clean your MAF, and reset the PCM. Here is the Bullitt Archive article: http://www.bullittarchive.com/1007.htm

jstreet0204 · Apr 2, 2006

Everybody is too quick to jump on the IAC as the root of all idle problems. More than likely, the oil on the MAF is causing the problem. The oil insulates the wire, so the MAF thinks a lesser amount of air is flowing through it. It cuts back on fuel and causes drivability problems. Clean the MAF first BEFORE you go buying parts. If the problem and the CEL doesn't go away, then get the code read to see what it actaully is, then go from there. Make sure you post back with your results.

Kilgore Trout · Apr 2, 2006

I agree, clean the MAF and the IAC before you buy anything. I do recommend a paper filter though so the MAF does not just get oil on it again.

hotmustang331 · Apr 2, 2006

^ Paper is teh looze!!!!!!!!!!! You have a stock filter and want everyone else to have a stock air filter

Y2K_MustangVert · Apr 2, 2006

Thanks alot for the quick responses, I am going to get the cleaner from Radio Shack in about ten minutes. BUT, do I use this cleaner on the IAC also? Is this the sensor that is in the tubing of the cold air kit, behind the MAF housing? I would hate to spray that SOB and have it completely quick working.

Kilgore Trout · Apr 2, 2006

Read the Bullitt Archive article before you do anything.

Use quick drying electrical contact cleaner on the MAF.

Use carb or brake cleaner on the IAC.

The MAF is delicate and expensive, be very careful with it.

Kilgore Trout · Apr 2, 2006

hotmustang331 said:
^ Paper is teh looze!!!!!!!!!!! You have a stock filter and want everyone else to have a stock air filter

I have a K&N dood

I am concerned that he will clean the MAF and just blow more oil on it is all.

I am not going to clean my K&N, when it is dirty a paper filter is going back in there for this exact reason.

rs-turbo · Apr 26, 2006

Hey guys,

Was doing some searching online for a stalling issue that I'm now thinking is the IAC and found this thread. I know performance is something we are interested in and prompts the K&N filter. Are you suggesting going back to restrictive paper filters again? I had a K&N and then switched the the Amsoil 2-Stage Foam Filter, but it was also an oiled filter. I am an Amsoil Direct Dealer and one of the things we were told to emphasis when we sold these filters is not to over oil these filters. Fords were very sensitive to oil getting sucked in. Last fall Amsoil released their new line of Ea Air and Oil Filters. These Air Filters are dry filters using nano-fibers that were originally developed for the M1 Tanks that encountered fine dust in the mid-east after the first Gulf War. These filters are also reusable but they are dry, so no reoiling. They flow as well as the wet gauze style filters but filter 50x the dust that they do. Cleaning involves just a shop vac every 25K. This could be an option for those concerned about loosing air flow by going back to a paper filter.

If you are using the stock airbox, the part number is EaA191. They are working on aftermarket models that we can use with non-stock intakes. I just bought the stock model and replaced my 2-Stage the other day. When the aftermarket model is out, I suppose I'll have to make the sacrifice and finally get that pipe.

For more info on these you can visit my site or the Amsoil Corporate Site

DTNODYA · Apr 26, 2006

rs-turbo said:
Hey guys,

Was doing some searching online for a stalling issue that I'm now thinking is the IAC and found this thread. I know performance is something we are interested in and prompts the K&N filter. Are you suggesting going back to restrictive paper filters again? I had a K&N and then switched the the Amsoil 2-Stage Foam Filter, but it was also an oiled filter. I am an Amsoil Direct Dealer and one of the things we were told to emphasis when we sold these filters is not to over oil these filters. Fords were very sensitive to oil getting sucked in. Last fall Amsoil released their new line of Ea Air and Oil Filters. These Air Filters are dry filters using nano-fibers that were originally developed for the M1 Tanks that encountered fine dust in the mid-east after the first Gulf War. These filters are also reusable but they are dry, so no reoiling. They flow as well as the wet gauze style filters but filter 50x the dust that they do. Cleaning involves just a shop vac every 25K. This could be an option for those concerned about loosing air flow by going back to a paper filter.

If you are using the stock airbox, the part number is EaA191. They are working on aftermarket models that we can use with non-stock intakes. I just bought the stock model and replaced my 2-Stage the other day. When the aftermarket model is out, I suppose I'll have to make the sacrifice and finally get that pipe.

For more info on these you can visit my site or the Amsoil Corporate Site

Interesting .. i'll check that out.

That is a cool website!!! Lots of info besides the filter.

the98stang · Apr 26, 2006

yep...clean the MAF and IAC. Check all vac lines. Check the PCV valve. If your car has high miles, you might as well replace the PCV and IAC as preventative maintinance

rs-turbo · May 3, 2006

Looks like I have to look into that aftermarket intake, Amsoil released those universal filters I mentioned the other day. They have 9 of them varying in different sizes. Here is the link to the info. They are called Ea Air Induction Filters.

Need Some Help Fellas....

Y2K_MustangVert

Member

Nater

New Member

Brute03

Member

Nater

New Member

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

jstreet0204

Active Member

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

hotmustang331

Active Member

Y2K_MustangVert

Member

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

rs-turbo

DTNODYA

Member

the98stang

Active Member

rs-turbo

Similar threads

Need Some Help Fellas....

Member

New Member

Member

New Member

Fried or Broiled ?

Active Member

Fried or Broiled ?

Active Member

Member

Fried or Broiled ?

Fried or Broiled ?

Member

Active Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency