need some help on spending some money

crazynorwegian

20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
Nov 6, 2003
267
0
16
azusa, ca
so I'm getting a loan from my parents for $3500 to fix up my engine, and since my car has 152,000 miles on in now I thought it would make more sense to replace my entire engine with one out of a 98 cobra. I've been doing a lot of research on the swap, and have started to second guess if this is realistically possible with $3500. I know I can pick up a used cobra engine for around 2500-3000, but depending on what it comes with, I'll most likely have to buy new headers, a mid-pipe, then reprogram my ecu to work with the new engine. I'm not a expert mechanic, but i've pulled/installed a 89 5.0 engine out of a fox before, and it wasn't too hard. other then a few wiring harness mods, from what I've read, the cobra engine will drop right in. have any of you had experience with is type of work, and do you think it is possible with my budget. my only other option is to rework the top end of my engine with some new high performance heads, cams, and intake. this would leave me a lot more money to play with, but would be a lot harder for me to install, and I'll still have the bottom end of my engine with 152,000 miles on it. my friend races cars, and just got done building a very nice shop for personal use. I'll be de-virginizing the shop for him, so I'll have access to tools, and a lift. but I still dont want my car to be out of commission for more then a week. All I want is a car that with run high 12's N/A, and still pass the sniffer test. what do you guys think I should do?
 
Too bad your all the way in Cali... Id sell you my 99 GT PI motor for alot less than $3000. Check some junkyard for 2002 Explorer 4.6's. These are the same as Mustang PI engines except they come with an aluminum block. Around here I can get them for about $1000 complete.
 
Darkhorse845 said:
You should do the PI headswap or a Cobra engine swap.They both
can be done. www.cobrapoweredgt.com


yeah, thats where I've gotten most of my info from, the forums are very helpful. whats the odds of my bottom end going out on me with the miles I have on it? if I went the headswap path, I would go for some stage 2 or 3 heads, with high lifting cams. then complete it with a good tune. I wouldn't be able work the bottom end until I'm done with school and start working. which wont be for another year or two. I would spend the leftover money fixing up the parts like new o2 sensors, new iac, new clutch, new wires, and I should have enough left over to replace the shifter, and a few other after market suspension parts
 
4.6L engine should last up to 200K+ miles with normal
driving.I don't see why your engine shouldn't last you
if you don't go pounding it everywhere.If you do the
headswap now you can always do the bottom end rebuild
later.Take care of your car now and it should last you till later.
You can do Stage 2 port and polished heads from VT,Stage 2 VT cams,
headers,and a great tune that would be a great combo. :nice:
What do you want to do with your car? What brands of PI heads are
you looking at? www.vtengines.com Also Congrats! :nice:
 
I really wish I could go with long tube headers, but I would hate to have to swap them out in a year and a half for my next smog, or even worse, if I got caught, and I had to swap it back to stock. would a good set of shorty's be worth it? also will the stage 2 heads and stage 2 cams, pass the sniffer? I will be using the stock h pipe with 6 cats for smog. I'm sure I can find a place that wont do a visual inspection
 
Living in CA you should keep the 6 catted h pipe and don't do long tubes.
If you get caught with anything different than the stock H pipe
or long tubes you could get your car impounded,1K fine,or depending
on the cop a few nights in jail.I belive the Stage 2 VT heads aren't the
problem it's the stage 2 VT cams that will hurt you when it comes to
emissions.You can always go with the VT stage 1 cams and make great
numbers and still pass emissions.Just look for a good place to get your
emission testing done every year and a half.You can go with the BBK or
FRPP shorty headers they will get you good results with the PI Headswap.
Good luck. :nice:
 
With the increase in air flow and with the stage 2 VT PI heads
you will probaly be around 290-300 rwhp so,you will max out
your fuel injectors and have to upgrade to 24 lbs. fuel injectors
to have enough fuel.With the non-pi set up you are most liking
around 190-200 rwhp.I think you will gain 100 rwhp with the
stage 2 VT heads and cams.Thats some great numbers from stock
if you ask me. :nice:
 
I've decided to go with the mph stage 2 heads since they are about $150 cheaper, and they flow a little better. then use some .500 lift vt stage 2 cams. do you think that will be a safe combo? also can I use the stock lifters and rockers with the new heads. none of the heads I can find come with them. do I need to get new cam gears with the new cams? I read that somewhere that the vt stage 2 cams are bolt on rather then press on, but I could be wrong. I just want to make sure I have everything needed to do this project before i start. I don't want to be in the middle of the swap then realize I'm missing something what else besides the heads,cams,manifold, and gaskets, what else will I need to do this swap on a npi engine
 
Darkhorse845 said:
With the increase in air flow and with the stage 2 VT PI heads
you will probaly be around 290-300 rwhp so,you will max out
your fuel injectors and have to upgrade to 24 lbs. fuel injectors
to have enough fuel.With the non-pi set up you are most liking
around 190-200 rwhp.I think you will gain 100 rwhp with the
stage 2 VT heads and cams.Thats some great numbers from stock
if you ask me. :nice:

yeah, I'm going to bring an extra pair of pants with me the first time I take it out :D