Need some help with 5.0

[McDoogle5.0]

so ive got the maf intake thing off and am cleaning it. there are one possibly two gaskets on there i believe, is that right?

If i clean that very well, could it be drivern to the part store w/o that gasket. probably a stupid question thought i would ask the gurus.A

bAck to cleaning it and ill tkae a few pics put em up here.

Came back from the shop with a 300 dollar bill and the same problem... How do i make them fix it w/o paying them.. arent there laws to help citizens not get ripped?

Thanks a bunch

 

[McDoogle5.0]

Came back from the shop with a 300 dollar bill and the same problem... How do i make them fix it w/o paying them.. arent there laws to help citizens not get ripped?

^^^^^^

charged 2 hrs at 70$ for:

a 60 DOLLAR!?!? wire set
a 40 dollar Dist cap
and a 17 dollar Dist rotor...

and one hour for
a 30$ manifold set???

two hours at 70 dollars an hour for this?

can anyone help me on deciding if this is not a rip off?
they even put in the old screws ( all rounded out ... will have to drill them to remove them once more )

 

[stykthyn]

did you sign anything when you left the shop?

if not and you have your car I would be laughing while I gave them the finger all the way down the street

 

[McDoogle5.0]

A BIG " UPDATE "

I'd like to begin by thanking all who have contributed, and apologise ahead of time for the book of a post. The post contains photos, and videos of my mustang in a struggle against a surging idle / sudden loss in hp & driveability.

Beginning below are three (3) videos containg footage of the mustang in different phases, followed by a series of photographs of the journey, with questions and updates throught the post, and to come still.
McDoogle5.0's 1988 Mustang 5.0 HO ORIGINAL VIDEO of SURGING IDLE / ENGINE START / LOW to HIGH IDLE / ONCE ITS DONE FLIPPING OUT IT IDLES AROUND 500-700 RPM
McDoogle5.0's 1988 Mustang 5.0 HO close up intake area and engine bay. check it out!
McDoogle5.0's 1988 Mustang 5.0 HO RUNNING/IDLE ENGINE BAY INSPECTION. LISTEN AND PLEASE TELL


BEGIN WITH A SHOT OF SOME TOOLS BEING USED SO FAR... nicee


PICTURE TWO CONTAINS A QUESTION REGARDING THE NAME OF A GASKET(S) LOCATED ON THE SECOND REMOVABLE PORTION OF THE THROTTLE BODY ( THE ONE CONTAING THE IAB ) FRONT AND BACK SIDE.
WOULD IT BE WORTH MY TIME TO UNBOLT THE IAB AND CLEAN/INSPECT?
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/6392/deleteafter2.jpg


Its true when my buddy told me nobody was going to see all this cleaning up im doing, but i will im terrible at it so far and am going to get a few various shaped/sized buffer wheels and smaller flap wheels and get busy on this engine. one problem i have is the inside shell of the engine bay is coated with a protectant/goo to keep the metal shielded, but some of its comeoff/been scraped and i feel like removing it, and then sanding/painting the bay again / black



If theres something ive removed / messed with that i shouldent have or might try to later in this cleanup lemme know, haha

Heres a picture of before :


and another " BEFORE " general shot, boy does it look dirty in there.


ill put another video of the engine running from outside the car overhead the engine, its being processed by vimeo approx 1 hr from now.

if your actually reading all this crap.. than you've noticed ive completley taken apart the throttle body area/maf.. once again if this was dumb please let me know. I have ( the wrong ) gasket ordered and ready to be picked up in the morning, but since i have to wait i will do more cleaning up. I have no idea what those gaskets are called tho, and will try and figure it out tomorrow.

---
Here is what the inside of the throttle body looked like, after two or so hours of stripping the sticky corrupted... agonizing bad gasket from one side, while the other came off in almost one big piece, a few cracks inbetween. Did all the cleaning outside with an overhead lamp at 11pm, felt like James May [topgear] But I did all that with it still soemwhat attacted by EGR and springy throttle stick thingy/connector.


GAVE IT A BIT OF CLEANING. HA, A BIT. MORE LIKE THERE WAS A SLUDGE MONSTER LIVING INSIDE OF THERE! Millimeters thick along the edges of the spring moved plate inside of the body, black.. gunk.
Is this amount of dirt inside there normal? Sorry for all the questions and pictures.


--
Tell me if I'm stupid for gently using a 80-100 grit flapwheel sander with an electric drill.. I haven't " sanded " any threads or close to any edges/gasket holes. If I'm not criticized, i continue with the purchase of smaller ones to get into hard to reach areas.

I still need the buff wheel + compound but im pretty proud of this one, it was like really dirty at first.



Although the screw is rounded, and i want to get that fixed, for a surging idle i do believe number #2 : Defective / Dirty TPS.. so Im pretty sure i should pursue entrance to that sensor, even tho it means vices, punches and drilling the damn screw out...
---------------------------------
---------------------------------

Ive got a little bit more to share, but dont want to bore all of you with all the pictures and babble, but heres a few things ive asked througout the post and felt like updating it.

flopwheel sander on engine parts? yay or nay?

[ABOVE POST] how do i get the mechanic to compensate me / how to correctly threaten him with good " legal " jargan/claims.

Am i a retard? Was this a bad idea ( taking all of this off )

Anything to avoid cleaning / messing with ie: cleaning with toothbrush/wirebrush/wheel

Thanks for reading, and I have to remind you all, soon a second video contaning footage of the mustang being taken apart / t.b inspection / engine area video, will be avaliable to watch as soon as it is done rendering. ( about a half hour from now )

So here are videos of the engine running at idle, a close look at the tps/iab/throttlebody/mass air.. and engine running at idle overhead engine view instead of inside the car. pretty good sound if you turn the speakers up, hope some of you GURU's can tell me just by listening. videos run 19, 60 and is shot from overhead the engine.

McDoogle5.0's 1988 Mustang 5.0 HO ORIGINAL VIDEO of SURGING IDLE / ENGINE START / LOW to HIGH IDLE / ONCE ITS DONE FLIPPING OUT IT IDLES AROUND 500-700 RPM

McDoogle5.0's 88 STANG AIR INTAKE INSPECTION - BAY OVERVIEW - ENGINE OVERHEAD
McDoogle5.0's 88 STANG 5.0 HO ENGINE RUNNING IDLE FOR INSPECTION W/QUALITY SOUND! ENGINE OVERHEAD

REPAIRS IN PAST 7 DAYS:
BEGAN ENGINE CLEANUP OPERATION
REPLACED PASSANGER SIDER EXHAUST o2 SENSOR
REPLACED FUEL FILTER
REPLACED OIL FILTER & OIL
REPLACED ALL SPARK PLUGS
REPLACED MANIFOLD SET ( REPAIR SHOP " SUPPOSEDLY" DID )
REPLACED WIRE SET??? ( REPAIR SHOP .. )
REPLACED DIST CAP AND ROTOR ( AGAIN, SHOP )
REMOVED THROTTLE BODY ALLTOGETHER FOR INSPECTION & CLEANING

TO DO;
FINISH CLEANING T.B AND COMPONANTS; FIGURE OUT THE NAME/ID# OF THE TWO GASKETS I NEED, AND ANY GASKETS I MAY NEED IN THE FUTURE IF I CONTINUE UNBOLTING THINGS TO CLEAN THEM.

REPLACE GASKET

& START WITH NO SURGED IDLE FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THINGS GOOD.

BLOG/UPDATE COMPLETE.

 

[jrichker]

You guys with idle problems could save a lot of time chasing your tails if you would go through the Surging Idle Checklist. Over 50 different people contributed information to it.

The first two posts have all the fixes, and steps through the how to find and fix you idle problems without spending a lot of time and money. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions. You can post questions to that sticky and have your name and idle problem recognized. The guys with original problems and fixes get their posts added to the main fix. :

 

[87GT40]

the $70 for two hours isnt bad. most states the minimum for labor is $75 per hour. if you didnt sign anything then youre golden. if you did pay then there isnt anything you can do. i know it sucks i had to pay $600 to have a shop replace my gaskets between my heads and lower plenum because i was going out to sea(damn navy). their rate was $75 per hour. i know some places are $80 per hour. now im not sure about the sandpaper question but the throttle body and spacer area the best way to polish is a dremel and the cotton wheels with some meguiars or some other metal polish. i did my valve covers and throttle body and alt area and it makes it look like chrome.