Does anyone have a complete install guide? I know the basics of it but I would need to buy the wrenches for the lines and need to know what size they are. I would also need to know how to bleed the system after I'm done. And then I know I need to take it in for alignment. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Need to replace my rack and pinion
- Thread starter SMRcalidiv
- Start date
nwapache
New Member
forget the exact sizes, but they are metric. just buy a set of line wrenches. disconnect those first. you will need an extension to get to the head of hte bolt behind the rack. i for get the exact size, but i think its 18mm maybe. you will definately need an 18mm for the outer tir rod-spindle bolts. i think you need a 22mm for the outer tie rod adjusters. bascially install is the reverse of taking out, just make sure to disable the fuel system and crank it over a few times after you added the proper P/S fluid (ATF in our cars). you want to avoid running the motor without fluid as much as possible as this can damage the pump.
to disable fuel system: pull back the drivers side rear wall covering in your trunk. basically just to the driver side of trunk next to where the license plate would be if closed. there is a little box, whack the box. that is the fuel cutoff. run the car till it dies. if it doesnt die, hit it again. to reactivate it, push the red button.
i usually jack the front end up and run the car while turning the wheel back and forth. i get someone else to add fluid.
ive never had a problem with the steering linkage. i will usually lock the steering wheel in place though. its a 14mm bolt and comes right out.
also consider getting new steering rack bushings. www.maximummotorsports.com has a nice selection. also buy new outer tie rods. they will be coming off, so put new ones on. your stock ones are probably all worn out. get them from any parts store, i usually recommend Motorcraft, NAPA, or MOOG. also use a quality ATF for the power steering fluid. i personally use Mobil 1 ATF.
o, then limp your car to a suspension shop and have an alignment done.
i usually jack the front end up and run the car while turning the wheel back and forth. i get someone else to add fluid.
ive never had a problem with the steering linkage. i will usually lock the steering wheel in place though. its a 14mm bolt and comes right out.
also consider getting new steering rack bushings. www.maximummotorsports.com has a nice selection. also buy new outer tie rods. they will be coming off, so put new ones on. your stock ones are probably all worn out. get them from any parts store, i usually recommend Motorcraft, NAPA, or MOOG. also use a quality ATF for the power steering fluid. i personally use Mobil 1 ATF.
o, then limp your car to a suspension shop and have an alignment done.
i usually just have the front end up to bleed. there is a bleeder on the hydroboost unit. i loosened that and shot like a pint of trans fluid about 40 feet in 2 seconds when i opened it. bled the system real fast.
to secure the wheel i use a steering wheel lock, the same kind i use for alignments. basically its a spring loaded hook thing that sits on the seat and hold teh wheel level.
to secure the wheel i use a steering wheel lock, the same kind i use for alignments. basically its a spring loaded hook thing that sits on the seat and hold teh wheel level.
thats what happened when i opened the bleeder. totally wasnt expecting it. i tightened it back up and me and my buddy were laughing for like 20 mins all covered in ATF. once we stopped laughing i ran water over my fender for a while. i had a perfectly clean engine that smelled of ATF whenever it got hot.
i would definately consider the offset bushings. i havent switched because i am saving up for a MM K-Member, and Torque arm when i put my new motor and transmission in.
i would definately consider the offset bushings. i havent switched because i am saving up for a MM K-Member, and Torque arm when i put my new motor and transmission in.
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