Need wiring help....

Edberts Wiring Diagram

Here is a link to "Edbert's" 67 mustang wiring diagrams. Will fit most applications. Many diagrams and pictures for every circuit on the car.

It is one of the most complete and easy to read that I have come across. Thanks, Edbert!

I swapped out my 67 Harness in 4 hours, by myself without cutting a single wire - Painless Harness - why would you use anything else?

StephenMarsh said:

I swapped out my 67 Harness in 4 hours, by myself without cutting a single wire - Painless Harness - why would you use anything else?

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probably due to cost. Which is why I'm going to install the EZ kit as well.

Bishop - You can use your old connectors if they are in good shape. If the wires going into the connectors are hard or cracked don't use them. This is what I usually do for stranded wire

1. Cut about 1.5-2" from the connector
2. Slide heat shrink tubing on new wire
3. Strip about 0.5" of insulation from the end of both wires
4. Mesh the wires togther (think of holding your hands in front of you and placing them togther so your fingers on one hand are between the fingers on the other)
5. Apply solder on one side in the middle of the mesh and the iron on the other so the solder flows through joint
6. Slide heatshrink over soldered joint ( If wire colors doesn't match I usually use enough heatshrink to cover the connector wire.)
7. Use a heat gun to shrink the sheath. - If I'm doing engine compartment wiring I use the heatshrink with sealant that flows when heated.

There are connector companies out there or you can go to the junkyard and pull connectors off a newer car and just replace the terminals.

A couple of recommendations

- lay everything out first and run everything to its destination
-. place a grommet on any hole in metal that has wire passing through it first
-. Make a firewall connector to split the harness then you can work on cleaning up and wrapping the harness a section at a time
- make a diagram that way you can reference it later or give it to the next owner
- take your time and go slow
- use soldered connections where you can and stay away from crimp connectors if possible. This will give you a more professional look to your wiring install
- lay the wiring out before wrapping it the way you want it when completed. Verify there is enough room and that the harness is not too tight before you cut any wires. Remember you can cut it too short once.

HTH

-Deric

bishop1911 said:

This is a little off subject, but I wanted to ask 67Fback and question. You have a 427 with a ton of HP and tourque, and a TKO 600. That is supposed to be rated up to 600 HP and 600 Foot LBS of tourque. How is that tranny working out for you? Do you like it and do you fee like it is sufficient for the setup you have? Thanks.

Jon

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Haven't installed them yet. David at UP told me that the TKO600 wont break until upwards of 1100-1400 HP. I will know hopefully before Oct.

A local guy told me that he uses heat shrink over all the wires as a harness cover. He gets it from a local electronics store called Altex. It comes in 4 foot sections and many colors. Like $2.19 each for 1/2" x 4'.You guys think this would work?

Deric, I like your idea of a firewall disconnect. I know the engine harness had one, but I don't remember if the front section had one. Any suggestion on where to get plugs?

I used the painless harness and I NEVER did any electrical work prior to that. I got everything done and now im just fixing up some of the wires. I used the painless harness. It took me a while but now its all working.