Need wiring help....

B

bishop1911

New Member
Apr 11, 2005
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#1
Ok, so I am about to start the wiring on my car. I have purchase the EZ 21 circuit wiring kit shown here which many others have also purchased. http://www.ezwiring.com/

Anyway, I have never done car wiring beyond a radio before and I have a question about it. After looking at the old harness that was removed from the car, and then looking at the new harness, what is to be done about all the connectors? Do those get removed from the old and then install them into the new? If so, what is the best way to remove the actual wires from the connectors and then install them? Also, there are a few connectors that seem to have 6 or 8 wires going into it and I am concerned about not having the appropriate connections that are needed. I know this harness will work so I am not worried, but I could use some help and info here as I said before, I am a newbie on wiring. Thanks.

Jon
 
#2
Kind of a big project for someone with no wiring experience...but I guess there's only one way to get experience...

There are a few things you can do about connectors: get new ones, rewire the old ones, or splice into the old ones. The splice-in option is easiest -- cut the old wires going into the connector with an inch or two of old wire sticking out, and splice the new wire to this. Then you can just plug in to whatever is on the other half of the connector.

The pins or sockets can be removed from a connector by depressing a small metal tab that locks it into place in its hole. I do this with an eyeglasses screwdriver. Then you can crimp new pins onto the new wire and snap them back into the connector. However, it's difficult to find the new pins to use.

The last option is to avoid the old connectors on the harness side altogether, replacing them with bullet or spade terminals as the situation dictates. This is basically what Painless does with a few exceptions.

Make sure you've got the wiring diagrams, and then don't trust them totally. Confirm each circuit physically, as there can be errors in the diagrams.

Good luck!
 
#3
I am also re-wiring my car and using a similar kit? So far i got the ignition working and now i am starting on the headlight switch. If you get that headlight switch finished let me know, my instructions are not very clear and their tech support is no support. Its a pain but it will be worth it when im done.
Good luck!
 
#5
I spliced the old connectors onto my new harness. Sure that left the ends with old connectors, but I didn't know where to get new ones. I took a lot of time planing out the wiring installation. You need a good wiring diagram and a multimeter to confirm the wiring. There were a couple problems I ran into on my stang. Let me find my old posts on it and I'll link um here.
 
#6
Okay I found the link. I need to do a write up on my harness install. I took a lot of pictures, but that was like years ago now and I don't know if I remember all the details. Anyway here is a like to that post I mentioned. http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=492564
The problem I had with the horn was casued by my thinking the horn relay needed to be supplied a ground when it simply needed a hot to work the horn.

So the horn switch in the harness connects a ground to the relay. I guess this is th way GMs work.

BTW DRAW A WIRING DIAGRAM!! I'm not home right now but I'll scan my diagram and my planing sheets and post them on the web for you. Please keep in mind that my stang is a 73 so the colors might be different, but it should give you an idea where to start.

Good luck!
 
#8
Edberts Wiring Diagram

Here is a link to "Edbert's" 67 mustang wiring diagrams. Will fit most applications. Many diagrams and pictures for every circuit on the car.

It is one of the most complete and easy to read that I have come across. Thanks, Edbert!
 
#10
Tranny question

This is a little off subject, but I wanted to ask 67Fback and question. You have a 427 with a ton of HP and tourque, and a TKO 600. That is supposed to be rated up to 600 HP and 600 Foot LBS of tourque. How is that tranny working out for you? Do you like it and do you fee like it is sufficient for the setup you have? Thanks.

Jon
 
#11
StephenMarsh said:
I swapped out my 67 Harness in 4 hours, by myself without cutting a single wire - Painless Harness - why would you use anything else?
Click to expand...

probably due to cost. Which is why I'm going to install the EZ kit as well.

Bishop - You can use your old connectors if they are in good shape. If the wires going into the connectors are hard or cracked don't use them. This is what I usually do for stranded wire

1. Cut about 1.5-2" from the connector
2. Slide heat shrink tubing on new wire
3. Strip about 0.5" of insulation from the end of both wires
4. Mesh the wires togther (think of holding your hands in front of you and placing them togther so your fingers on one hand are between the fingers on the other)
5. Apply solder on one side in the middle of the mesh and the iron on the other so the solder flows through joint
6. Slide heatshrink over soldered joint ( If wire colors doesn't match I usually use enough heatshrink to cover the connector wire.)
7. Use a heat gun to shrink the sheath. - If I'm doing engine compartment wiring I use the heatshrink with sealant that flows when heated.

There are connector companies out there or you can go to the junkyard and pull connectors off a newer car and just replace the terminals.

A couple of recommendations

- lay everything out first and run everything to its destination
-. place a grommet on any hole in metal that has wire passing through it first
-. Make a firewall connector to split the harness then you can work on cleaning up and wrapping the harness a section at a time
- make a diagram that way you can reference it later or give it to the next owner
- take your time and go slow
- use soldered connections where you can and stay away from crimp connectors if possible. This will give you a more professional look to your wiring install
- lay the wiring out before wrapping it the way you want it when completed. Verify there is enough room and that the harness is not too tight before you cut any wires. Remember you can cut it too short once.

HTH

-Deric
 
#12
bishop1911 said:
This is a little off subject, but I wanted to ask 67Fback and question. You have a 427 with a ton of HP and tourque, and a TKO 600. That is supposed to be rated up to 600 HP and 600 Foot LBS of tourque. How is that tranny working out for you? Do you like it and do you fee like it is sufficient for the setup you have? Thanks.

Jon
Click to expand...

Haven't installed them yet. David at UP told me that the TKO600 wont break until upwards of 1100-1400 HP. I will know hopefully before Oct.
 
#13
A local guy told me that he uses heat shrink over all the wires as a harness cover. He gets it from a local electronics store called Altex. It comes in 4 foot sections and many colors. Like $2.19 each for 1/2" x 4'.You guys think this would work?

Deric, I like your idea of a firewall disconnect. I know the engine harness had one, but I don't remember if the front section had one. Any suggestion on where to get plugs?
 
#15
I used connectors on my wiring harness. I think that soldering is probably the best way to make the connections though. It's just a better more perminent connection in most cases.

It's been two years since I did my install with no problems, except for a minor wiring screwup that causes my interior lights to stay off when the passenger door is opened with the ignition off.

Anyway, I wanted to post my wiring notes on here. They simply list what wires get connected to the old wires on the old connectors since I reused them, only replacing a few of the old wires totally.

http://webpages.acs.ttu.edu/jikelly/wiring_notes.htm
 
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