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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Needing to build the suspension and rear up

  • Thread starter Thread starter aggiedj02
  • Start date Start date May 17, 2005
A

aggiedj02

New Member
May 9, 2003
165
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0
Las Vegas, NV
May 17, 2005
#1
  • May 17, 2005
  • #1
Well my warranty is almost out of date, so that means it is time to buy a daily driver and start putting money into the mustang.

I am going to try to do this right, which means I need to build my suspension and rear-end up first to take the beating it will get from added horsepower.

I have allocated about 5k to this, so I hope it is enough. I need springs, struts, 31 splines, gears, different rear housing, UCA's and LCA's. Also, I was going to get some 18" white saleen rims, tires, and a bigger brake kit b/c the stock GT brakes suck and it is getting close to time to replace the pads anyway.

I am going to do this all at once or in two stages... suspension then rims/tires/brakes. What would be the best setup for the struts/springs to be streetable but not daily driven? Also, am I missing ANYTHING you guys can think of before I walk into a store in the DFW area and start asking away? My level of trust with shops is little, so i like to be FULLY educated before I walk in and start asking away for parts.
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
May 17, 2005
#2
  • May 17, 2005
  • #2
www.maximummotorsports.com - one stop shopping. I'd be surprised if these guys push you into selling you their stuff, but even if they do, know you are getting the best stuff on the market - nuf said.
Also, man, if you have the bandwidth, ck out their in car videos on their webpage...what a blast!
 
B

bdcardinal

tree hugger
Jun 10, 2003
3,612
16
69
santa barbara, CA
May 17, 2005
#3
  • May 17, 2005
  • #3
twogts4us said:
www.maximummotorsports.com - one stop shopping. I'd be surprised if these guys push you into selling you their stuff, but even if they do, know you are getting the best stuff on the market - nuf said.
Also, man, if you have the bandwidth, ck out their in car videos on their webpage...what a blast!
Click to expand...
werd, mm makes the best products hands down. plus when i went to Howlin at Buttonwillow they were really helpful and actually suggested that i not buy their most expensive kit. they said i probably wouldnt like it on a daily.
 
A

aggiedj02

New Member
May 9, 2003
165
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0
Las Vegas, NV
May 18, 2005
#4
  • May 18, 2005
  • #4
thanks guys!!!
 

DTMach1

New Member
Jun 14, 2004
240
0
0
Virginia Beach, VA
May 18, 2005
#5
  • May 18, 2005
  • #5
Suspension:

H&R Super Sports, Tokico D-specs(or their illuminas if you want to save money), Evolution Motorsports LCAs, keep your solid UCA and switch to a poly bushing, unless you'll be running bigger slicks, then just about everyone makes a decent double adjustable UCA., Kenny Brown Extreme Matrix SFC kit, fitted with Evolution Motorsports X-brace, EvM V-brace. MM C/C plates, EvM spider brace, Rear shock tower brace, 4 or 6 point roll bar(welded in), MM adj. rear sway bar...

For the rear:

Moser 31-spline axles, Gear of your choice(FRPP), Eaton Posi(or Torsen if you want to spend the $$$), Axle Girdle, welded axle tubes, Upper and lower control arm torque box support (battle boxes)...

Brakes: Go with the cobra R kit out of the FRPP catalogue, if it doesn't already come with them, get some Hawk HPS pads...also switch over to Braided SS brake lines in the front....

I think I just spent more than $5k...but you also never stated what you inteded the car to be used for...Auto-Xing, drag racing, street/strip...etc...
 
B

bdcardinal

tree hugger
Jun 10, 2003
3,612
16
69
santa barbara, CA
May 18, 2005
#6
  • May 18, 2005
  • #6
true, i just assumed he meant road racing since thats all the other mustang owners i know do.

the FRPP Cobra R brake kit comes with stainless lines. the stock pads that come with it are good, but you can get Hawk pads from MM for a fairly decent price.
 
A

aggiedj02

New Member
May 9, 2003
165
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0
Las Vegas, NV
May 18, 2005
#7
  • May 18, 2005
  • #7
DTMach1 said:
I think I just spent more than $5k...but you also never stated what you inteded the car to be used for...Auto-Xing, drag racing, street/strip...etc...
Click to expand...

Good point... I never did.

I would like to build the car for street/strip racing. I want a totally streetable car (emissions excluded) that can handle and get up and go.

My goal is a 500+RWHP mark with a turbo kit. This is not something that will be done overnight as well... this is a 3 yr goal I have in mind, but you have to begin somewhere, and getting the car prepped for the power seems like the place to start.

I think some of the stuff you mentioned is a bit overboard, but most sounds good. Any other tips now that you know what my intention is? Teach me please

EDIT:

Taking it out to a road racing event is something I will most likely do as I did it with my old car and had fun
 

hognutz

New Member
Nov 12, 2002
1,940
0
0
albany, oregon
May 18, 2005
#8
  • May 18, 2005
  • #8
Well you have plenty of money.

I would spend the money on the rear end first.

axels, gears, rear diff.

then see what you have left.

now you may have enough to just plain go crazy. I mean at 5k you are only about 500 shy of built rear and the maximum grip package from MM. that is coilovers, panhard rod, torque arm, everthing. I would look at the road and track box if you really don't want to drop the whole 5k.

it is hard to find a balace between good handling and good launch though. you kind of have to decide which is more important.
 

Back2Mustangs

New Member
Sep 2, 2004
466
0
0
May 18, 2005
#9
  • May 18, 2005
  • #9
hognutz said:
it is hard to find a balace between good handling and good launch though. you kind of have to decide which is more important.
Click to expand...

Hard to accomplish a good mix of both drag and auto-x suspension... decide which is priority and take that path.
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
May 18, 2005
#10
  • May 18, 2005
  • #10
Back2Mustangs said:
Hard to accomplish a good mix of both drag and auto-x suspension... decide which is priority and take that path.
Click to expand...
And I'll 2nd that! Two totally different things, different paths. Some parts do cross over (like subframe connectors, a beefy rearend (but different rules apply to how a rearend would be built for drag or open track), brakes, and so forth) but others are a waste on a 1/4 mile demon. Off the top of my head, with, admittedly not a huge amount of experience building full tilt either way, the 1/4 mile demon is probably cheaper, but, IMO, much more fun is the road racer. If you have any doubt, I beg you, go watch these MM videos (and crank up the speakers)!!! Maximum Motorsport Track Video Downloads - lap by lap - American Iron Series - Buttonwillow
 
A

aggiedj02

New Member
May 9, 2003
165
0
0
Las Vegas, NV
May 18, 2005
#11
  • May 18, 2005
  • #11
i would say launching is of more importance but I want the car to be more streetable, so not going full drag setup to get some driveability out of it is of utmost importance!!!
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
May 18, 2005
#12
  • May 18, 2005
  • #12
aggiedj02 said:
i would say launching is of more importance but I want the car to be more streetable, so not going full drag setup to get some driveability out of it is of utmost importance!!!
Click to expand...

Full length sub frame connectors, lower control arms, 4.10 gears, 31 spline axles, brakes - that would be my short list and will be good for what ails ya.
 
H

Hoppy

Founding Member
Jun 24, 2002
329
0
0
L.A. CA
May 19, 2005
#13
  • May 19, 2005
  • #13
twogts4us said:
www.maximummotorsports.com -.........
Also, man, if you have the bandwidth, ck out their in car videos on their webpage...what a blast!
Click to expand...


Man...the vids are awesome....that MF'er is drivin' his A55 off!!!!!!
 
B

bdcardinal

tree hugger
Jun 10, 2003
3,612
16
69
santa barbara, CA
May 19, 2005
#14
  • May 19, 2005
  • #14
he has a lot of issues with the conversion from understeer to oversteer. i think he is applying too much throttle and has to overcorrect. i bet he couldve dropped about 1-1.5 seconds per lap if he smoothed out his apex-corner exit. also, the tyres they are required to run in AI arent the greatest in the world. you have to run the TOYO RA-1 with a max width of 275. if i remember correctly that car has 150,xxx miles on the factory longblock and the only mods to the motor are a fluidyne radiator, full exhaust and trickflow intake with a CAI.
 
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