New 88 LX v8 5-Speed, first foxbody, Trans leak??

It might just be rtv sealant of some sort. Not sure if there is an actual seal

I recommend that you consider a steel input shaft retainer in place of the aluminum one that is stock equipment. The aluminum input shaft retainer tends to score and make the throwout bearing blind.

I don't know how you feel about the DYI thing when it comes to gears, some people don't like the idea of working on transmissions. If the DYI transmission fix idea isn't something that you would rather leave to someone else, here are some resources:

See http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/onlineorder/product.asp to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://get.adobe.com/reader/

See http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/ or http://www.ddperformance.com for parts

A T5 rebuild kit with syncros, bearings and other small parts costs about $160. It does not include any gears or shafts.

http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/ also has a video on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs about $20, and is worth every penny of it.

I did a Tremec 3550 rebuild, and it wasn't that difficult. The video was an immense help, and I would recommend viewing it. At $20, it will give you an opportunity to look and decide for yourself if you think that it is something you want to try to do.


T5 Shim kits – best product I have seen in a while… http://www.5speeds.com/t5/shims.html
“The Peel ‘n Place T5 World Class shim kit makes shimming T5 counter gear and main drive gears very easy.”

For Tremec 3550 and TKO's:
You will also need a magnetic base and dial indicator to measure the endplay ($40-$120). http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1354&PMCTLG=00

The tricky part is that you will need some shims to adjust the endplay in the two shafts: the new bearings will change the clearance. There is no way of telling what it will be until you get to the point that it is time to measure and check the clearances. Halon has the individual shims if you can wait for them. If you can't afford the wait, the auto parts store can sell you some shim stock and you can make your own, or have a machine shop make them for you. The shim stock comes in brass (easy to cut) and steel, in varying thicknesses. That's where the dial indicator & base come in - there is no way to get the clearance right without it.

Getting the car jacked up high enough to get the trans jack in and out from under the car was somewhat challenging. Since I didn't have a helper, getting the trans out of the car and back it was one of the more difficult things about the job. I built a trans jack out of 2x6's, some angle iron and a $25 floor jack. If I hadn't done that, I would have needed a helper or to rent a commercial trans jack. At 100+ pounds the Tremec 3550 was far too heavy for me to lift by myself.

Look at the parts drawing: there is a seal to keep the fluid from leaking past the input shaft. The input shaft housing has no gasket, only some RTV to seal it to the transmission case.

You need to plan on removing the transmission and replace the input shaft seal. Then throughly clean the input shaft housing and the transmission case where it seats with acetone and apply some fresh Black RTV to the flange face.

If you replace the input shaft housing or replace int input shaft bearing, you will need to re-shim the input shaft to get the correct bearing preload.

Labor time: by yourself, first time - 4-6 hours from the time the car gets up on jackstands until the trans sits on the ground & the bellhousing is off. You'll have about the same amount of time to get it reassembled & back in service.

Transmission and Clutch replacement 79-95 V8 Mustangs

Before you get started, buy a Chilton or Haynes shop manual. You will need it for the bolt torques and patterns.

1.) Jack up the car front and rear, use jack stands to be safe. I use some very tall jackstands that I bought for my wife’s SUV to get enough clearance. To get the trans out when using a transmission jack, you will need 22”-25” clearance.
2.) Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose. Disconnect the negative battery cable. You will need a couple of extensions and a ½” swivel socket to remove the top starter mount bolt, which is accessed from the front and under the headers. Leave the starter wiring connected unless you plan to change the starter at this time.
3.) Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.
4.) Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.
5.) Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.
6.) Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle
7.) Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.
8.) Remove the transmission. You will need a long extension & a universal joint with a ¾” socket. A transmission jack or a helper is almost a must have unless you can bench press 75-100 pounds with ease.

Steps 9-21 are for rear main engine oil seal, clutch removal and replacement.
9.) Remove the clutch cable cover and pry the throwout bearing arm forward enough to slide the cable off.
10.Remove the bell housing using the long extension & a universal joint socket. Note how the throwout bearing rides it the throwout bearing arm, and which end faces the clutch pressure plate. Write it down or make a drawing if necessary.
11.) Remove the bolts securing the pressure plate to flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Work in a star pattern to reduce stress on the pressure plate mounting tabs.
12.) Remove the flywheel mount bolts, as you will need to either replace or re-surface the flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Tap the locator dowels out of the flywheel with a 1/4" pin punch. Zip bag them together with the flywheel bolts.
13.) Inspect the transmission input shaft where the throwout bearing rides. Replace it if worn or damaged.
14.) Inspect the throwout bearing, throwout bearing arm and ball pivot stud for wear or damage.
15.) Inspect the rear oil seal for leakage and replace if required. A pair of drywall screws carefully screwed into the metal part of the seal will enable you to pull it out. Use some acetone & swabs to clean out the place where the old seal fit. Coat the outer metal shell with silicone gasket maker prior to installing it. Use a seal driver or the old seal to drive the new seal in place.
16.) Remove & replace the pilot bearing. A puller borrowed or rented is helpful here. A wood block will be used to drive it home.
17.) Install the flywheel, noting that the bolts are an odd pattern, and it only lines up one way so that all the bolts go in easily. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Install the locator dowels at this time.
18.) Install the clutch disk with the hub springs facing the rear of the car. Use a pilot tool available for $3-$4 from the auto parts store to line it up.
19. Install the pressure plate, be sure to use the pilot tool prior to tightening the pressure plate bolts. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Remove the pilot tool when you are finished torquing the bolts.
20.) Install the throwout bearing on the throwout bearing arm, noting the direction of the bearing and it mounting in the arm.
21.) Install the bell housing. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
End of clutch replacement steps

22. Install the transmission, have the transmission jack or helper at hand to lift it into place. Watch out that the stub of the shifter does not tear the shifter boot. Some transmission mount bolts with the heads cut off can be used to help support the transmission as you slide it home. It may be necessary to press the clutch pedal to get the transmission to slide the last ½” or so. Remove the guide studs if you used them & torque to specs according to the shop manual.
23.) Reinstall the clutch cable by prying on the throwout bearing arm. Replacement of the stock cable or quadrant is recommended if you haven’t already done so. With adjustable cables, both nuts go on the back side of the throwout bearing arm.
24.) Reinstall the rear crossmember & transmission mount. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
25.) Reinstall the wiring and speedo cable or VSS sensor if you removed it.
26.) Reinstall the drive shaft, slide the yoke in place. Align the rear yellow markings and install the bolts. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to tighten the bolts.
27.) Remove the jack from under the engine oil pan.
28.) Refill the transmission with the proper fluid. T5’s use Dextron ATF, Tremec 3550’s use GM Synchromesh. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the top plug as the filler port.
29.) Adjust the clutch cable according the manufacturer’s instructions if you have an adjustable cable & quadrant. Set the emergency brake and use the drag it provides in order to determine where the clutch starts to engage. You should have 1 -1 ½” free play from the top. The cable will not have any slack and will have some preload on it when properly adjusted.
30.) Re-install the H pipe and remaining items.
31.) When you have visually checked all the bolts, fittings and other parts are present and not interfering with each other, then take the car down off the jack stands.
32.) Be prepared to put the car back up on the jack stands to adjust the clutch and tighten up any loose items found after the test drive…

If you have a T5, you may be able to remove the trans & re-install it if you can bench press the 75 lbs that it weighs. If 75 lbs is too heavy, don't hurt yourself, get a trans jack. If your car has a Tremec 3550 or TKO, you will need a helper or trans jack because it weighs 100 + lbs. I built a trans jack from 2x2 angle iron, some swivel casters, 2x4's, 2x6's and a cheap floor jack. PM me if you are interested & I will send you the photos (8 MB) with the write up.

While you are at it, replace the stock cable & quadrant if it is still present. My choice for clutch & quadrant for street use:
Ford Racing M-7560-A302N - Ford Racing Clutch Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Ford Racing M-7560-A302N king cobra clutch kit $215-$259

Ford Racing M-6375-B302 - Ford Racing Flywheels - Overview - SummitRacing.com flywheel, cast iron $92


New items – the King Cobra clutch kit may not be in stock, so here’s the replacement:

url]http://www.summitracing.com/parts/F...ilter=1&query=Part+Type|Throwout+BearingsFord[/url] Racing clutch kit #FMS-M-7560-E302, $25, no throwout bearing included with the kit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-7548-A/ Ford Racing throwout bearing FMS-M-7548-A $52.

The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just a good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.
Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90
Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com

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Look at part # 61.
Here ya go http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NOS12363_0073713739
or http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Timken-Transmission-Seal/1988-Ford-Mustang/_/N-ihy8aZ6o216?itemIdentifier=12103_0_0_3498%2C10112%2C10407

double post...

Before you pull the transmission, and try to change the input shaft/seal, have you made sure that your not just leaking fluid from your speedometer cable/gear, and its just leaking down, and off of your bell housing?