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  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

New Aluminum Driveshaft Question?

  • Thread starter Thread starter doobsstang
  • Start date Start date Jan 5, 2006

doobsstang

Member
Oct 4, 2005
92
1
6
Pembroke, NH
Jan 5, 2006
#1
  • Jan 5, 2006
  • #1
Clanking noises are coming from inside my driveshaft. I brought it to a local shop and they said I need to replace it. I am going to get the FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft. I am wondering if it is too hard to do it on my own. I think, not sure, that the new driveshaft assembly comes with new 1330 U-Joints. How hard do you think this will be to do? Can I do it in my driveway with jackstands and some hand tools? Do I need a vice or clamp to compress the U-Joints if they are already assembled with the new driveshaft. Just some questions before I take on this project alone. The mechanic told me a new driveshaft will be $600 plus labor. Kinda crazy to me since I found a new driveshaft assembly on SummitRacing.com for $225. Thanks for the help. Nick.

:SNSign:
 

RIO5.0

15 Year Member
Feb 16, 2001
6,892
8
128
N.H.
Jan 5, 2006
#2
  • Jan 5, 2006
  • #2
No problem doing it on ramps...and yes its a complete assembly, take yours out, slap the new one in...
Couple things...
Be prepared when you pull the DS out of the tranny as its gonna leak some fluid....I have a rubber glove handy to slap over the catch the leakage....

The bolts out back can be a mofo to break loose if they never been off...the factory uses Loc-Tite of sorts and it holds like a mother...
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Jan 5, 2006
#3
  • Jan 5, 2006
  • #3
Andy, as usual, is spot on. I second his sentiments to have extra trans fluid on hand and threadlock for the DS bolts (they are 12mm, 12 point bolts, if you need to buy a wrench or socket).

Good luck.
 

doobsstang

Member
Oct 4, 2005
92
1
6
Pembroke, NH
Jan 5, 2006
#4
  • Jan 5, 2006
  • #4
Thanks guys. I haven't posted in awhile but as usual I received great answers to my questions. I actually searched the threads first too! Hope everyone had a good Christmas and New Year. Dube.
 
S

sage2k

Member
May 23, 2005
645
0
16
Baton Rouge, LA
Jan 5, 2006
#5
  • Jan 5, 2006
  • #5
use some PB Blaster and let bolts soak for an hour before you take em off
 

RIO5.0

15 Year Member
Feb 16, 2001
6,892
8
128
N.H.
Jan 5, 2006
#6
  • Jan 5, 2006
  • #6
Another thing I do is use a 3/8" dia rod and send it thru the holes in the pinion flange, then rotate the DS so the rod jam's under the dif...It'll will hold the DS while loosening and tightening the bolts....You normally have to reef on those bolts pretty good....An long rachet for leverage will be a plus to..
Anything beefy that'll fit thru that hole and act as a stop will be a big help...If the bolts feel like their not gonna break loose then STOP...get a torch and put some heat to em...you dont even wanna bust a freakin bolt....

Here we go...new I had a pic...
you can see all the holes in the pinion flange....between every DS bolt you'll get an open hole...that's what you wanna send something thru and up against that "ear" (at 3:00 as your looking at the pic) on the dif to hold the mother for wrenching..
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Jan 5, 2006
#7
  • Jan 5, 2006
  • #7
Sheesh Andy, you should work for National Geographic with all the pics you have on your computer.

Andy's heat method is a good one- it is how threadlock is supposed to be circumvented.

Good luck.
 
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