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New battery tray vs trunk relocation

  • Thread starter Thread starter billison
  • Start date Start date Mar 8, 2013
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billison

I like tinted tail
15 Year Member
Feb 27, 2006
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stl
Mar 14, 2013
#21
  • Mar 14, 2013
  • #21
Found a tray on Craigslist for free.. Came with all the hardware too. So I'm good for now.
 

chrisv_10

New Member
Mar 9, 2013
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Asherton Texas
Mar 14, 2013
#22
  • Mar 14, 2013
  • #22
If you get a sealed battery like a optima, you don't need a sealed box with a vent tube.
 

chrisv_10

New Member
Mar 9, 2013
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Asherton Texas
Mar 14, 2013
#23
  • Mar 14, 2013
  • #23
billison said:
Found a tray on Craigslist for free.. Came with all the hardware too. So I'm good for now.
Click to expand...

hell yeah
 

1200gt

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Nov 1, 2013
#24
  • Nov 1, 2013
  • #24
RacEoHolic330 said:
Relocating the battery to the trunk is not a cheap modification to do properly. You should be using #1/0 cable for BOTH 12V and ground. A dedicated ground should go from the trunk to the engine block, then to the chassis. Some people will tell you that they only grounded the battery to the frame in the back of the car and everything is fine, but that really is not the proper way to do it. Grounds are just as important as hot legs, especially on an EFI vehicle.

A battery relocation is not worth it unless it's something you really really want to do.
Click to expand...


Just researched this Mod and came across this thread.

I think a few of you guys may have convinced me to stay away from the Battery Relocation.

One question I do have that may put me back on the coarse for doing this Mod: I am planning to install my sound system in the trunk and will have a couple amps back there that will need power (+).

In the past, I just ran a (0) gauge + back there from up front and a (0) gauge ground to the chassis. Then the usual gold plated fuse block.

Would a rear battery relocation be optimal for this scenario?
 
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