Wiring a battery relocated to trunk


New Member
Feb 3, 2020
My fox was in the middle of having the battery relocated to the trunk when I purchased it. I made a batter box for the new battery and mounted in the trunk of my notch. I have a 1/0 power cable and a 1/0 ground cable ran into the trunk.

The power cable is blue and this goes to the starter solenoid? The ground cable for whatever reason in run under the trunk and floor pans and mounted to the driver's side of the g force trans. Is this normal? One would think running it 12in from batter to frame would not only be more convenient but have been electrical consistency?

Now do I need to run a cable from the starter to the batter? Or just starter to solenoid? And I have 2 small pink wires coming from alternator to a plug but can't find where it plugs too?

I have no pictures. I'm at work. I will try to get some tonight if I get off early enough. It's a 84 notch w/87 front end with a 408w.

All and any help is much appreciated. Thank you
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The 1/0 ground on mine is run over to the webbing between the package tray and the shock tower and grounded there. The 1/0 positive cable it run to the starter solenoid on the inner fender. From there I have a 4 ga wire on the opposite side of the starter solenoid on the inner fender down to the mini starter. 3G alternator has a 4 ga wire from the post to a 150A wafer fuse to the same side of the inner fender starter solenoid as the battery. From there I have the 4 ga grounds from the block to the k-member, and k-member to the subframe. Has been like this for years and worked great. I do not have battery cut off switch but if you want to wire one in jrichker has a really good explanation on how to do it here:

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In case you were going to remove it
I agree with all the above but leave the ground on the trans from the trunk mounted battery
Then ground the body in a few places (at the battery) (trans to radiator support or fender apron)
Why would you run the ground from the battery directly to the transmission? I have never heard of that so it peaks my interest and I am always up to learn something.

I would think that grounding to the body in the trunk area would suffice being that you would then ground the block of the motor (which is attached to the transmission) to the k-member then then over to the front subframe which is connected to the body which would complete the grounding.
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The body is not good enough, that is why the factory ground goes directly to the the engine block (with a spur to the body)
You are thinking the trans is grounded good enough thru the trans and engine mounts?
Not sufficient IMO
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I disagree but to each is their own. Grounding from the battery to the body in the rear of the car and then grounding from the block to the k-member and then over to the front subframe (body) does the same thing and IMO is a lot cleaner. Not saying that the way you do it doesn't work as it surely does I just like doing it my way.

The factory 12V+ and 12V- leads absolutely suck on these cars hence why most everyone removes them and puts better cables in.
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