New Clutch issues

I have googled and googled and searched. I get alot of things that explain exactly whats going on with my new clutch. I bought a clutch from auto zone just a plain duralast oem replacement. There is only some bolt ons on my car (full exhaust w/ headers, CAI w/ upper and lower intake replacement, 90mm MAF, 3.73 gears) There may be a few more but nothing to deserve a stage one clutch I would think. I also have the steeda adjustable clutch w/ quadrant.

I changed the clutch because I broke the friction plate of the STOCK clutch. It broke the friction pad off the friction plate on the pressure plate side. The flywheel side was fine. I did not resurface the fly wheel just cleaned it up with a buffing pad on a dremil. Still had the ford emblems on the pressure plate so Im assuming it was factory. I did buy a whole set. friction plate pressure plate throw out bearing and pilot bearing. I have a 2002 but the trans is from a 2001 I am guessing because the 11 inch clutch didnt fit so I had to go get a 10.5 inch. Which was only 89$ compared to the 175 of the 11 inch.

To the issue.. I have maybe 140miles on the clutch. The pedal vibrates something horrible! At idle and even worse at highway speeds. But if you put some pressure on the clutch pedal (push in maybe a inch) all vibration and sounds go away. Now at idle I hear a squeaking/squealing noise coming from the clutch area. It gets louder at cruising speeds. I have tried adjusting the clutch at the adjustable point on the firewall under the hood. I have no idea how to adjust the pedal if there is another way. Also when I take ease off the pedal from a stop. 1st gear or reverse, the car shudders/skips. Bounce even, its annoying and I have no idea what the problem could be. I bought the car with everything done to it. I have a shop with lifts so pulling it back out if needed isnt a problem. Just 4-5 hours of work. I just want to fix the issue.

Noobz347 said:

Your symptoms describe a bad throwout bearing or warped gouged bearing retainer.

You're going to need to pull it all apart again and replace it (replace the retainer with a steel one). You should also replace the pilot bearing and have the flywheel resurfaced.

You should NEVER install a new clutch without resurfacing the flywheel.

It is also possible that you didn't get the clutch disc centered perfectly... Not usually very likely but possible.

Not sure what you have going on with your transmission. Where did THAT come from? Was it used? Is the input shaft perfectly straight? Is this the same tranny that was in it before the clutch swap? What about the drive shaft and u-joints? Did you check them all over when you had everything apart?

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I replaced the pilot bearing. and retainer? The trans is the one that was in the car when I bought it. I have put 8000 miles on the car since buying it. But apparently its a T-45 instead of the 3650. And a the disc only broke a week ago. Before then it was a flawless shifting smooth clutch car. I have now put 190 miles on the new clutch. Ive adjusted the cable as much as possible. Got rid of the squeal/squeak for the most part. But I have it adjusted so that there is maybe a 1/2 inch of play in the top of the pedal but that makes it where the clutch is fully engaged like 1 inch from the floor. And with it adjusted this way the pedal is still vibrating but if I press the clutch in a inch, the squeal comes back then if I press it in another inch or so the squeal and vibration goes away. Still shuddering on any take off from a stop. Yes I checked the drive shaft but like I said, It ran fine before. Its not slipping at all. I have a life time warranty on it so I got on it hard tonight. Power shifted from 1st to 2nd with traction control off and it went side ways real nice and into 3rd power shifting and tires broke loose again. I have 315 nitto drags radials on it so I dont think the clutch is slipping at all. But alot of vibration in the pedal. I dont know if there is a way to adjust the quadrant on the steeda adjustable stuff. I know factory had a quadrant adjustment.

My uncle owns a automotive repair shop in my town. He doesnt know much about performance parts like the adjustable clutch cable and all. He was helping me install the clutch. He looked at the flywheel and the clutch disc of the old clutch. He said to just use a buffing wheel to clean the flywheel up and wipe it off with brake clean and the same for the pressure plate. He told me to drive it this week and see if it changes or goes away. If not Ill take it back to the shop this coming weekend, take it all back out and take the clutch back and get another one and reinstall everything and see how it goes after that.

Noobz347 said:

Just a note: You'd not be the first to get a TOB that was bad out of the box. It's a pretty common occurrence.

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Alright. Well I will take it back apart this weekend and go get a new one. Thanks guys. Ill have the flywheel resurfaced as well this time.

Well 350miles and the stutter from a stop has disappeared but the vibration and squeal/squeak is still there in the pedal. Im guessing Im going to be pulling it out for sure!. And could someone explain to me or point me to a guide on clutch adjustment with the steeda adjustable cable and quadrant please??

Also I have read that there is recommended to be 1-1.5 inches of free play in the clutch pedal. When I do that it takes me going about 2 inches off the floor before the clutch is fully engaged... And if I adjust it so that the clutch is fully engaged half way then the TOB is constantly on the pressure plate.. I need some advice before I pull it out and put a new one in just to mess the new one up too.

93 331 GT said:

Just to help out I had the same issue. The chatter turned out to the clutch pivot fork. The two "fingers" that cradle the throw out bearing had broken off. It destroyed the throw out bearing in the process. After researching I found that ford recommends changing the clutch fork as well. And get you flywheel resurfaced. They are machined for a reason. You stand a good chance of warping your flywheel or worse having the clutch blowout from uneven heat distribution. I speak from experience. I had a fox body and threw in a stock clutch about a 1000 miles later boom! Bell housing all over the road. As far as your ajustable clutch set up, I use a cable from upr that has the two nuts to sandwich the fork instead of the factory ball at the end. This will keep the cable in the proper alignment even as the clutch wears. The slack will only be at the fire wall and adjust as necessary. I know this is a lot, but if I can help out I will

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Yeah Ive been looking around at a new clutch fork. Havnt found one yet. But the main thing is. Your supposed to have about a inch of free play in the top of the clutch pedal, correct? If so, when I have that much free play at the top of the clutch pedal (no more sqeak/squeal) The clutch doesnt engage till an inch off the floor. So I have looked but do not see a way to adjust the quadrant.. Need help with that.