Wow... Would've bet money it was a voltage problem. Well, thanks for giving my theory a go.
Is there any wiring near the coil, or any ignition signal, that could cause E-M interference?
Wish you could bypass the compressor. If unplugging it makes the problem go away, then that makes it a likely candidate. I get why you want to send the signal, now. Running the electrical current could at least replicate that, in case there is some weird short or interference.
When you test with the a/c compressor running at idle, have you revved to the RPM you'd be at on the highway?
Wish you could bypass the compressor. If unplugging it makes the problem go away, then that makes it a likely candidate. I get why you want to send the signal, now. Running the electrical current could at least replicate that, in case there is some weird short or interference.
When you test with the a/c compressor running at idle, have you revved to the RPM you'd be at on the highway?
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Maybe you’ve already tried this, but what about running a completely separate power source to the AC clutch to see if it engaging is creating the problem or the system engaging the clutch is the source? Maybe a dumb idea.
I like creative ideas. Separates the electrical signal causing interference from the mechnical drag of the clutch.
I would rig a wire directly from the battery to one side of the clutch and another wire into the passenger compartment, and while driving, ground that wire, engaging the clutch. Another unlikely thing to check; see if the ground wire from tje clutch plug is where the diagram says it is (on the diagram I posted). Ground are another of those things that create weird outcomes if they’re broken or not well connected. Just further ideas.
Test the plug to the compressor. Does it have constant 12v when car is on? If so then just ground the other wire and compressor should engage.
Maybe drive the car, locked in 3rd gear and test it so the OD or Lock Up will not engage? Maybe you’ve already done that.
I'll just leave this here:
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