new extreme compcams

18x10roushes

New Member
Dec 10, 2004
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does any one know if these new compcams are any good ? i have a built bottom end and im currently getting my heads ported. anyones advise on the cams by the way i got an 03 gt on the bottle to.
 
18x10roushes said:
does any one know if these new compcams are any good ? i have a built bottom end and im currently getting my heads ported. anyones advise on the cams by the way i got an 03 gt on the bottle to.

Comps are good.

I personally have heard too many good things about VT to pass them up though. I will be going with VT stage 1's in a month or so.
 
Hey, just want to worn you about them, they sound alot like the 270s that we had( as far as lift and all). Make SURE that you will not have ptv. You may have to have valve releifs cut in your pistons. Just check everything, all numbers, and make sure. Don't want to make the same mistake we did.
 
I have a 302 stroker with ported heads and comps XE278 cams and love them. They make the same power as VT's, if not a little more. I have no piston to valve issues, but am running 21cc dished pistons. Valve reliefs wont make a difference either. PTVC occurs at the edge of the piston on mod motors, not in the middle like pushrod motors. For racing, I recomend XE278, for street, XE270. XE278 are crap below 3,000 rpm, but make huge power up top!
 
billyfe390 said:
Make sure you Degree them in BEFORE you start the car. Also if your heads are off get some clay and check the PTV clearance.

If you install the chains properlly, there is no need to degree the cams. I do reccomend checking the base circle on comp cams though. On some of the older cams (older than 2 years), the base circle was off. I have the XE278's, and have no PTVC problems. There is no need to have valve reliefs on mod motors. The valves will hit the edge of the piston, not the center like pushrod motors.
XE278's run great up top, but suffer below 3,000RPM. VT and Comp both make great cams, and if you look at the specs, they are very similar. It is just personal preference, thats all. Comp has been around a lot longer than VT though.
 
98 convertable said:
If you install the chains properlly, there is no need to degree the cams. I do reccomend checking the base circle on comp cams though. On some of the older cams (older than 2 years), the base circle was off. I have the XE278's, and have no PTVC problems. There is no need to have valve reliefs on mod motors. The valves will hit the edge of the piston, not the center like pushrod motors.
XE278's run great up top, but suffer below 3,000RPM. VT and Comp both make great cams, and if you look at the specs, they are very similar. It is just personal preference, thats all. Comp has been around a lot longer than VT though.
Valve reliefs do work on mod motors, I know from personal experience. I had 270s and had ptv and then took the heads off and cut valve reliefs and everythin worked great. But either way you go just measure your clearances
 
TNstanggurl said:
Valve reliefs do work on mod motors, I know from personal experience. I had 270s and had ptv and then took the heads off and cut valve reliefs and everythin worked great. But either way you go just measure your clearances

well I am glad the valve reliefs worked out for you. I was told they wont work on a mod motor. Note to self: beat person that told me that!!! What year is your motor...96-98? Because if you had a 99-up motor, they should have cleared. Just curious.
 
98 convertable said:
If you install the chains properlly, there is no need to degree the cams.



Installing a aftermarket cam without degreeing it in is just stupid. You may not get any more power out of it but you definately know that you didnt slip up timing the cams also you know dam sure that the cams are dead on with the card.

You may take the chance on someone elses workmanship but for me I am not made of money and I dont feel like replacing a short block simply because I was too lazy to do some measuring.
 
billyfe390 said:
Installing a aftermarket cam without degreeing it in is just stupid. You may not get any more power out of it but you definately know that you didnt slip up timing the cams also you know dam sure that the cams are dead on with the card.

You may take the chance on someone elses workmanship but for me I am not made of money and I dont feel like replacing a short block simply because I was too lazy to do some measuring.

I've heard of people doing this, but how do you keep the cam from turning in the keyway after its been ground out to be degreed? It looks like at some point, the cam could turn inside the sprocket :shrug: Or do you just have to torque the bejeezus out of it?

Fidanza is releasing adjustable sprockets that would make it much easier, though.
 
nickthegenius said:
I've heard of people doing this, but how do you keep the cam from turning in the keyway after its been ground out to be degreed? It looks like at some point, the cam could turn inside the sprocket :shrug: Or do you just have to torque the bejeezus out of it?

Fidanza is releasing adjustable sprockets that would make it much easier, though.


If its torqued correctly it will not move.FYI-cams on the 200 cobra "R" do not have keyways because they are degreed.

Like the others said,if its a new motor check EVERYTHING..


98 convertable- the 270's have showed some PTV contact on ALL year motors.It depends on the piston maker(ford) they used..